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Having issues with my clutch disengaging COMPLETELY
Hi everyone. So recently after a street tune for a break in map....right after it was pretty much set, my car stopped going into gear. Pedal pressure is GREAT! And even when clutch is pushed in all the way i cannot get into gear at all. Brand new ACT ZX6-HDSS kit. I did not change the throwout bearing as it was only 4 months old before the rebuild. I looked through the inspection plate as someone pressed the clutch in, the throwout bearing is pulling the pressure plate great, i even looked at the clutch disc getting pulled away from the flywheel perfectly. My wedge collar is not popped off as i have the ACT monoloc one piece collar. I replaced the slave cylinder with an OEM one and the master cylinder too and still no luck. Car shifts into gear perfectly when off (obviously) and if i put it in any gear and start the car with the clutch in, my car will lunge forward as if i did not have the clutch in at all. It also will be a pain in the *** for about 5 seconds to pull it out of gear back into neutral after that. I went ahead and accepted i have to drop the trans to see my issue...i bought a new clutch fork, throwout bearing, pilot bearing&seal, as well as the rotary specific pilot bearing installer and remover to make that job easy. Anyone been through this or have any ideas what this problem may be? I am running fresh MT90 in the trans and the trans also never gave me issues prior. What a headache lol
Can confirm the disc is not backwards, gonna try bleeding with s vacuum bleeder as much as i can and hope that solves it before i have to drop the trans
Have you tried adjusting the length of the rod on the back of the clutch pedal? Cant say it should be relevant but it's worth a shot
yes still nothin man. Today after work will be my last shot at bleeding as much as i can. Just doesn’t make any sense to me. New master, new slave, new stainless line, new clutch kit..fork looks good through the inspection and pulls good.
John did it but i witnessed the whole thing. Clutch when on the right way. Even if it was backwards, wouldn’t that have not allowed me to drive it at all?
I shouldn't laugh but that man...
I'm actually curious myself I'm about to put one of these in soon. Just taught my girl how to drive stick and needless to say things got a little toasty...
I had an issue just like this and rebuilt my master and slave and it fixed it just some springs and little rubber bits. I did find bunch of sand which was concerning but nothing bad has happened so far.
Although if you can see it move... That's a tricky one. Is it moving far enough?!
When you re-install the clutch disc, cut about 1/2" off the tip of the plastic clutch alignment tool. That will make it work SO much better and you get a truer alignment. Makes all the difference when you put the trans back in.
Also I typically pull the alignment tool in and out a few times once the pressure plate is bolted down to make sure it's dead center and doesn't try to pull to one side or the other.
A misaligned clutch disc can cause damage like that to the pilot bearing.
When you re-install the clutch disc, cut about 1/2" off the tip of the plastic clutch alignment tool. That will make it work SO much better and you get a truer alignment. Makes all the difference when you put the trans back in.
Also I typically pull the alignment tool in and out a few times once the pressure plate is bolted down to make sure it's dead center and doesn't try to pull to one side or the other.
A misaligned clutch disc can cause damage like that to the pilot bearing.
Dale
thanks for the tip Dale! It worked great. Also anyone ever have their threads gone on the clutch for mounting holes? I had to drill a bigger hole and then add threaded inserts while I was installing my new oem fork
That's not typical. Someone probably changed that fork at some time and put way too much torque into the bolts.
Also that's a LOT of grease on the area the throwout bearing rides on. I typically like to use a thin smear of high temp wheel bearing grease. Don't know how well that white grease will hold up over time. Also you don't want too much extra, it can end up on the clutch.
Smear grease on that collar and on the inside of the TO bearing, on the 2 arms on the TO bearing where it engages the fork, and on the socket end of the fork where the clutch slave goes into.
That's not typical. Someone probably changed that fork at some time and put way too much torque into the bolts.
Also that's a LOT of grease on the area the throwout bearing rides on. I typically like to use a thin smear of high temp wheel bearing grease. Don't know how well that white grease will hold up over time. Also you don't want too much extra, it can end up on the clutch.
Smear grease on that collar and on the inside of the TO bearing, on the 2 arms on the TO bearing where it engages the fork, and on the socket end of the fork where the clutch slave goes into.
Dale
looks like the fork has been the same
since 93 to be honest! Lol. But thanks Dale! That’s exactly what i did! Car runs nice now
still nothin man. Today after work will be my last shot at bleeding as much as i can. Just doesn’t make any sense to me. New master, new slave, new stainless line, new clutch kit..fork looks good through the inspection and pulls good. 
