Hey all, new FD owner here, bought the car last week. Turned on the car yesterday for a few seconds and then turned it off (didn’t know this would cause a problem, WHOOPS).

Tried turning it on after and it would not. Read through multiple posts on this forum and found out about rotaries flooding. I tried removing the EGI fuse in the engine bay and cranking the car for 15 seconds 5 times. Put the fuse back in and it almost starts but not quite there.

Couple of things I want to try:
1. remove egi fuse and crank for 15 seconds 10 times and then put the fuse back in to try to start the car
2. replace spark plugs (do not know when they were last changed) and then do the egi fuse technique and see if that works

This is all I have so far. If someone has more things to try or could give some pointers, that would be much appreciated!

 

I think there are probably several threads addressing a flooded engine in the 3rd Gen tech and New Member sections. I’d do a search but the basics are…

Charge your battery
Pull the leading spark plugs (the lower spark plug).
Pull the EGI fuse.
Run the starter/crank the engine two or three times.
Clean the plugs and reinstall.
replace the EGI
With a fully charged battery try to start the car

If the car still won’t start and continues to flood, have the engine compression tested by someone with the proper equipment

 

If it was running fine and hot starting fine before this just roll start it and drive it hard after it warms up. If it continues to be an issue replace plugs and check on battery status. Also, doing the RX8 starter upgrade will really help with this issue as well.

 

Try starting with the gas pedal to the floor. That will shut off the injectors, IIRC. Then, even if it doesn't start with the pedal floored, try again normally. That has been effective in some cases.

 

I have had four RX-7 and they all have this problem. If you turn off the ignition key on a cold start before the computer goes completely thru its warm up cycle and then try to start later, the computer has the air-fuel mixture and timing still in the previous warm up cycle and floods the engine. Take all of the spark plugs out and dry them off. Dry out the combustion chambers by blowing compressed air into the spark plug holes, then put the spark plugs back in and see if it starts. Usually this works. Others have dried out the combustion chambers by cranking the engine with the fuel injectors deactivated (fuse out). Best bet is never turn off the ignition without letting the engine run for at least a minute.

 

car was running fine and hot starting before this. I will try this roll starting method, seems to be the easiest option.

 

thank you for all the advice and great suggestions. I will pull out the spark plugs and dry them out if roll starting the car does not work.

 

The "easiest" option is to hold the gas pedal to the floor during cranking, which disables the injectors. I've used this method several times in the past and this is much faster than pulling the spark plugs, fuses, etc. Give it a shot.

 

I should’ve mentioned that. Sometimes…for whatever reason it ends up being the only (successful) option. Regardless if it was flooded you’re likely due for an oil change. Once you get it running and shut it down pull the dipstick and smell it.

 

I tried this out last night, didn’t quite come start up. I will try it out again today. Also, my car is parked on a slight uphill slope so will try it on a flat surface today as well.

 

This exactly happened to me on Sunday. Saturday night started the car, pulled into the driveway. Stopped the car. Next afternoon. Cranked with no throttle. Barely caught and died. Tried again. Same thing. Floored the gas pedal and cranked, no dice.

Pulled the fuel pump relay. Floored pedal. Cranked.

Replaced relay.

Opened up the air intake.

Sprayed starter fluid in.

Cranked. Chuff-chuff no catching.

(By this time I have the battery charger assisting.)

By this time we have the whole team on our local chat pitching in.

Conclusion:
[Quote}
Charge your battery
Pull the leading spark plugs (the lower spark plug).
Pull the EGI fuse.
Run the starter/crank the engine two or three times.
Clean the plugs and reinstall.
replace the EGI
[Quote]


Car started.

I suppose it did not help that the car had sat out for two days in the heaviest rainstorm in local history and that when I tried to start the coolant temperature was one (1) degree celcius and the intake air temp was the same.

We pulled all four plugs. They were very wet, but not carboned up.

This is the first time I've had to pull the plugs. The WOT method has worked previously.

Jacking up the car and removing the left front wheel gave the easiest access to the plugs.

[Note: Series 7 an Series 8 owners the coils are positioned differently, so make sure to label your leads.]

From all the cranking, and stuff, it seems I burned out my AFR sensor.

Lesson learned.

 

follow up question to this: did you replace the AFR sensor? If so, could you send a link to where i can buy one as well.

additionally, this chat you speak of is something that others can join as well?

 

It is good to buy an AFR gauge (with sensor) sooner than later. I have an AEM one mounted on the A column (with another gauge) in a two pod column mount.

You might want to think about how you want to mount the extra gauges in your cockpit, so you don't end up mounting all different kinds of gauges in random places.

The sensor itself is like an O2 sensor and needs to be mounted via a "bung" in the downpipe somewhat ahead of the cat.

My bung was mounted so that the sensor sits horizontal (perpendicular to the flow). This is/was a mistake.

The sensor should be angled at least 10 degrees off of horizontal.

Otherwise liquids will pool in the bung and cause the sensor to burn out.

This is why I am now looking for my fourth sensor .

One of these days I will get he bung mounted correctly.

The AFR gauge and sensor should be a "wide band" to give better scope.


The Air Fuel Ratio gives you immediate feedback on the state of your tune;

Whether you are running too rich or too lean.

Too lean is a warning you might have fuel detonate in the wrong place (and time) in the motor which can cause significant damage.



What happens when you don't have a consistent gauge mounting plan.

This looks like a mess, but all the gauges are mounted in a way I can quickly go back to stock layout.

[I.e. no screwing up (literally) the dash.]