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Since I am planning on going single turbo, it looks like I can delete the rat box. This means I'm going to have a bunch of connectors that don't go to anything. Do you de pin your wires and cut open the loom to remove the wires? Or do you leave the connectors in place, cap off the plugs and send it. Just not sure if disturbing the harness too much is a wonderful idea.
just want to make sure there is also no issues deleting the box, correct? The only thing I was unsure of was the "port air control solenoid". I assume it's sequential related? I attached the diagram for those who are unfamiliar with the what solenoids are on the box, specifically. I also found this diagram on another forum so maybe it may benefit someone else.
Edit to add, car will be on haltech 1500
I removed the engine harness from my car when I installed different fuel injectors (which needed different connectors), added a fuel pressure sensor, and removed some of the original solenoids from the engine bay. But if you're just removing solenoids I would be tempted to just cover the connectors and leave the harness alone. Don't cut any of the connectors off, some of the important 12V supply wires are daisy-chained and things like the boost control solenoid or idle air control solenoid might stop working if you cut off certain certain emissions or sequential control connectors.
I'm still twinning, but no emissions. What I didn't need anymore, I wrapped with heat resistant fiberglass tape, then over-wrapoed that with TESA tape. Cinch secure with heat-resistant zip ties or wire. I also vote not chopping up harnesses. Eventually, I'll go single and will either buy a Rywire harness or do more of what I already did.
Doing anything with the unused connectors is entirely optional. You can simply leave them be. The ideal solution if not replacing the harness is to open it and de pin the unused wires and remove it all the way back to the ecu. It really doesn't matter, it's entirely for presentation.
Best approach is to replace the harness entirely. Rywire is our go to
OP Im in the same situation- haltech 1500, single turbo.
Im trying to decide if I can swing a baller C.Ludwig (LMS EFI) harness or take my chances on the Rywire harness.
Im preserving stock harness (and rest of stock parts). Infact I am an OMP and waterpump away from being able to have a FULL stock engine set-up ready to assemble. Thats stonks these days...
As others have said, opening the harness and de-pinning is the preferred and best way, however not necessary.
IF you choose to open the harness, PLAN AHEAD! There are a bunch of connectors that you will need to un clip to pull the entire harness, many are brittle and cooked so you risk breaking them. The plastic loom will disintegrate in your hands. The tape and sealant will be super annoying. As Scotty305 mentioned, there are some daisy chained grounds and supply lines that you need to ensure still provide connectivity to certain circuits.
Open harness lets you add things you want and cleanly. However it is a massive project. Cheap wire is cheap, cheap crimpers are cheap...but cheap gets you crap. Your crimps are important (no solder allowed!!). You don't want a wire from a nice new trigger wheel coming loose while you're doing a pull now.
Since I am planning on going single turbo, it looks like I can delete the rat box. This means I'm going to have a bunch of connectors that don't go to anything. Do you de pin your wires and cut open the loom to remove the wires? Or do you leave the connectors in place, cap off the plugs and send it. Just not sure if disturbing the harness too much is a wonderful idea.
just want to make sure there is also no issues deleting the box, correct? The only thing I was unsure of was the "port air control solenoid". I assume it's sequential related? I attached the diagram for those who are unfamiliar with the what solenoids are on the box, specifically. I also found this diagram on another forum so maybe it may benefit someone else.
Edit to add, car will be on haltech 1500
Spoiler
When going single turbo and removing the rat box, you have two main options for dealing with the leftover connectors: either de-pin and cut out the unused wires from the loom or leave the connectors in place, cap them off, and secure them to avoid interference. De-pinning and cutting out the wires can help reduce clutter and potential points of failure, but it does involve disturbing the harness, which can be risky if not done carefully. Leaving the connectors in place and capping them off is less invasive and can be a simpler approach, but you should ensure that the capped connectors are securely insulated to prevent any shorts or interference. As for the "port air control solenoid," it is generally related to sequential turbo systems and can be removed if you're not using it in your single-turbo setup. With your Haltech 1500, you should be able to manage the tuning and control aspects effectively without the need for the solenoids tied to the rat box. Make sure to review the specific wiring and solenoid diagrams for your vehicle to ensure a clean and effective installation. And if you are looking for someone who will write your essay assignment by taking some money then you can happily visit https://www.topessaywriting.org/write-papers-for-money here where you will find a professional essay writer who will help you. Whenever I want to hire an essay writer, I always prefer to visit the given link.
So, I weny with Rywire single turbo harness to get me started.
Not the stock replacement one, bit the other.
I did not buy the $400 "optional" ign coil harness.
Rywire didnt run the coil wires to their dummy plug that replaces ECU recepticle B1-01 1series contacts- so I had to buy a Deutsch recepticle that fits into their "optional" ign coil harness plug and pins so I can wire them from the Rywire chassis subharness plug on the harness (Rywire ecu dummy plug 1b-01 contacts 1g, 1h, 1j, 1k).
I have Elite 1500 as well and this single turbo harness is pinned for sequential leading coils and iac solenoid on injector driver 2500 has, but 1500 doesnt. So, gotta repin 1500 plug for waste spark leading and move iac pin down to the freed up injector driver on the 1500 plug.
Next bought a dummy plug for ecu b1-01 2 series contacts so I can input the 1500 tach output to the cluster through the stock harness (ecu dummy plug contacts b1-01 2b.)
Next, found I can pin and use dpo 6 on 1500 to pull down fuel pump resistor bypass (Rywire ecu dummy plug b1-01 1k).
Rywire sells parts, but not solutions to get your car running, so they couldnt help figute any of this out or make the harness for it. I will send them pics wjen done so maybe they xan figure it out and offer it as a part to sell.
I decided to make my own single turbo harness instead of buying a ready-made "universal" one, mainly because I wanted to designate b1-01 pins to my likings - including having egts, two knock sensors, fuel pressure, fuel temp, additional gm style iat, etc. And because why not, it's fun.
I've just finished it this week, took me 2 months and costed me about ~ $250 (150 in connectors, 100 in wires) including shipping charges. I bought the connectors in multiple runs, could have saved about 50 if bought in one or two runs.. Few pics ..
