Chance

Well this was a first. I picked up some oil and a filter after school today since I'm getting close to 2k miles. I probably change my oil too frequently, but I'm just being cautios. Yada yada, simple oil change, start her up and no oil pressure. WTF I wait a little longer as it usually takes a sec for the guage to start moving after a change, and suddenly my low oil buzzer goes off. Uh, ok. I'm still trying to let this register when I hear a gushing noise, step out of my car and oil is spewing all over my freaking driveway. I went for the ignition faster than I've ever moved in my life hoping no damage was done. At first I thought busted oil cooler line, although I recently replaced them with some new ones from Racing Beat. Then I remembered how that little rubber gasket thing on the oil filter came off when I took it out the box. I just pushed it back on, smeared some oil on it and twisted it down. Lo and behold, that was the culprit. All my oil leaked out from under the oil filter when I started it up. I couldn't believe it. Anyways, I got a lift from my brother and bought a new filter and more oil and all is now good again. No damage seems to have occured but it still sucked. Has anyone had this happen to them before?

supergoat

Nope, I always double check for that little O-ring.

Evil Aviator

No, but one time I forgot to close the drain when I started adding oil. Luckily I have an oil drain valve, so I only spilled a little. BTW, the oil drain valve is a very inexpensive and handy device, and I can drain my oil without even jacking up the car.
http://www.fumotovalve.com/

The damage may have already been done, but it may be a good idea to clean the oil off your coolant hoses. I'm sure that they got a good dose of oil.

Cameljoe

Bet you'll never make that mistake twice.

TonyTurboII

Ive seen one before that looked like it had a little arm to swing it open. I was kind of skeptical that something might hit it.

niner

i work at a fast service garage when im on break from school or full time in summer. ive seen worse

cars started w/ no oil, double gaskets w/ oil spraying everywhere, wrong oil filter put on -->blows off and engine locks up, too much oil put in car and seals blow out...............

never been my fault though, i always double or triple check my work

dont worry bout it too much though, it most likely didnt do much or any harm.

Snrub

iTrader: (1)

Ouch, those are some nasty mistakes, imagine if it was your car! When you mention the one with too much oil, how much extra are we talking about? (just curious)

dcamcoTII

WARNING!
"N-Type" valves are not recommended for cars with low ground clearance. Please make sure there is enough distance from the ground.

Hmm, Evil Aviator do you have the N-Type?? If so, any clearance problems? Cuz that thing looks nifty :-D

niner

we are talking about when someone puts right amt. of oil in car and walks away... someone else puts oil in car as well and starts it up.... dosnt check it and pulls it out the door

im not sure how overfilling would affect our cars though b/c the sump is not the same as piston engines. there is no crankshaft going through oil or windage created. i suppose it could be possible to blow an oil seal out of a 13B though

The Ace

Close call man....

I agree. You'll never make that mistake again....

ItsNiceToBurnRice

"Yikes!" good word choice

ReZ311

iTrader: (4)

I am wondering also. What would happen if you overfilled rotory engine with too much oil??? I know what would happen with a piston engine. =P Oil seal could be a good answer. Anyone?

scathcart

I used to work at an oil change, so I've seen it all. Filters with nicks in them were pretty bad. So was double-gasketing (not checking to see if the old gasket came off with the old filter before putting the new one on. I've seen 10W30 in a diesel. I have seen 9.5 L (for you US guys, a Liter is a little more than a quart) put into an 86 VW jetta diesel (twice what they should take). I have seen wrong oil filters, and drain plugs that refuse to go back in when you take them out, even though they threaded in properly.
People crackings rads, letting tranny's run empty, forgetting to replace diff plugs, and engines being started when the pit guy is still screwing the oil filter on. Even seen a hot rad opened when pit guy is right below; 2nd degree burns that turned black and peeled almost instantly(guy said some chemical in coolant burns chemically) on his face and right arm.
Seen pit guys put water into pan, grease everywhere (in exhaust, oil filters, diffs, tranny's) and not change tranny fluid or diff fluid even when it was paid for, to bastard customers.
I have seen some pretty bad ****, but never to an rx7. I amde sure of that.
Cool thing about that place? I was a manager and the owner was never around. That means oil changes every 300 miles, rad changes once every 3 mnths, and diff changes and tranny changes with synthetic fluid whenever we weren't busy. A bottle of fuel system cleaner with every tank of gas, and fuel filters whenever I wanted. ALL FOR FREE
I recommend doing this work yourself. Plain and simple, it's easy enough, cheaper, and you know it will get done right. And if you go to a shop, don't be a *****... your car will suffer.

SpeedRacer

That drain valve looks pretty cool actually, mine only worry is wouldn't that hang pretty low under our cars. My car is 2" lowered, I'd be afraid of it scraping and all my oil draining out...that'd be the worst. How much lower does it hang than the normal drain plug?

Evil Aviator

I have only used the regular F106, which works just fine on the 2Gen. In fact, it also fits my F-150 truck. I have had no clearance problems, and I think that the crossmember or suspension components would hit the ground before the valve does. Also note that the valve handle swings away from harm when in the closed position.

The N-Type is new, so I'm not sure how well this would work. I'm not sure if there is much advantage in the nipple for the RX-7, as I have found the regular type to work just fine. Many aircraft use an N-type valve, but that's really more for use where you can't let the oil drain straight down and the tube guides the oil to drain out a dedicated port. If you are concerned about ground clearance, then just use the regular F106 valve.

Here is another thread on this subject:
https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...threadid=23575

Here are the dimensions for the regular F106 valve that I took with a ruler:

Head length (outside oil pan): 21mm (20mm + 1mm bevel)
Thread length (inside oil pan): 12mm
Overall length: 33mm

Head width: 19mm square (Installs with 19mm open-end wrench)
Oil outlet hole: 7mm hex

Valve length: 13mm from end of head
Valve outside diameter: 16mm
Valve handle length: 12mm from valve
Valve handle angle: aprox 60 deg

tesla042

When I did the oil pedestal o-rings ( http://haxx0r.net/car/rx7/oil_ring ), I put the pedestal on sideways.. oil was SQUIRTING out of the pedestal.. gah!

-Tesla