WTF is wrong????
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WTF is wrong????
ok so yesterday on my way to work i thought my clutch master cylinder went bad, so i had mazdatrix overnight me a new one. i put that one in it worked ok for a trip around the block and then again no clutch pressure. I had my slave cylinder and the hose replaced about 3 months ago. the slave was done by a mechanic and i put in a mazdatrix SS hose myself. what the hell is going wrong here? my pedal just pushes to the floor and doesn't come back up. Please i need any suggestion. i'm trying to fix this tonight before i need to wake up for work in the morning. Thanks
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A bit of a long shot.. but is the clutch enguaged all the time?
Myabe your preasure plate is bad and/or all the springy things that the thrust bearing sits on have all snapped off.
sounds crazy.. but it happend to my car.
Myabe your preasure plate is bad and/or all the springy things that the thrust bearing sits on have all snapped off.
sounds crazy.. but it happend to my car.
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ok the only thing i know about bleeding it out is to loosen up the bleeder valve on the slave cylinder and pump the clutch but i can't even get anything to come out of the that when i try.
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ok so i slightly loosened up the SS line and now i get fluid out of the bleeder valve but the pedal still just pretty much goes right to the floor without much resistance and stays there. now what?
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ok so i opened the bleeder, pumped it a bunch of times and then when it was down i closed the bleeder valve. then i pumped the clutch and i now have some clutch pressure but it's defienlty no where near where it should be. although i drove it and it is usable, the clutch disengages pretty much when it's right at the floor. i even tried bleeding it multiple times. what else can i do to get my pressure back up?
#13
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you need to adjust your clutch pedal. this is kind of hard. you need to get under the pedals and youll see a rod with a 12mm nut and a 10mm nut you turn the 12mm nut and adjust the rod to your likeing. you can make it engage when you first touch the pedal or at the very end of the pedal i.e. as is now. That will make a world of a difference, you should adjust it and drive around and youll see the difference in the two.
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i already adjusted the pedal as far as it can go so i get a little pressure now. i'll have to try pumping it and holding it and then openinng up the bleeder when i get home. thanks guys you helped me to atleast get to work this morning.
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When the master is new, it can sometimes be hard to initially get fluid through the system.
One choice (messy) is to "bench bleed" the master (we almost ALWAYS do that for brake masters). Fill it with fluid, then push the piston with a philips screwdriver. When the piston is down, hold your finger over the fluid "out" hole and let the piston back up. Do that a few times (usually IN a trash can) BEFORE installing the master. -- Then it still will need to be bled after installation - just cuts down on the time.
Other way is install master and fill it. Open the slave bleeder screw, and push the pedal down ONCE and hold it to the floor. Close the bleeder (yes, this takes two people). Let the pedal up, and repeat the process as many times as necessary until you get NO air out of the slave. A small hose and bottle to catch the fluid (and watch for bubbles) also helps.
For brake and/or clutch bleeds, we quite often need to go through the whole process, then leave it alone for about 1/2 hour. Then come back and do it all again. That time frame lets the small bubbles all move to the high spots - makes them easier to get out.
Yes, we have the pressure bleeders, but even when we use them, we usually "finish" the job with manual bleeding.
One choice (messy) is to "bench bleed" the master (we almost ALWAYS do that for brake masters). Fill it with fluid, then push the piston with a philips screwdriver. When the piston is down, hold your finger over the fluid "out" hole and let the piston back up. Do that a few times (usually IN a trash can) BEFORE installing the master. -- Then it still will need to be bled after installation - just cuts down on the time.
Other way is install master and fill it. Open the slave bleeder screw, and push the pedal down ONCE and hold it to the floor. Close the bleeder (yes, this takes two people). Let the pedal up, and repeat the process as many times as necessary until you get NO air out of the slave. A small hose and bottle to catch the fluid (and watch for bubbles) also helps.
For brake and/or clutch bleeds, we quite often need to go through the whole process, then leave it alone for about 1/2 hour. Then come back and do it all again. That time frame lets the small bubbles all move to the high spots - makes them easier to get out.
Yes, we have the pressure bleeders, but even when we use them, we usually "finish" the job with manual bleeding.
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