amondchristopher

The break down.... just got car running back to somewhat normal .. having problem with wot now not really bucking kinda hessitating similar to ground issue (still have that problem) its like power back and forth throught all rpms . just replaced fuel filter new sec. injectors pulled fuel pump its good, tank was very clean. 5th &6th actuators move easy (not sticky or rough operation) . will die at idel when warmed up. other than that is runs good 1k-7k under part throttle no hess. no bucking . WTF is going on with it. YOUR INPUT WILL HELP

88 S4 N/A Here is the mods......

Jacobs ignition energy pack
A'pexi SAFC
lightweight aluminum flywheel
Spec stage 1 clutch
Walbro 255 high flow fuel pump
Performance radiator/Black magic 15' fan
Racing Beat Header & Presilencer
Duel Greddy exhaust
Emissions Removed

959595rotor

can you test the engine vacum is it 14 psi at idle

Hypertek

iTrader: (3)

Check fuel pump filter/sock , that is a common culprit

amondchristopher

fuel pump / sock was clean im thinkin the pump is good. enough fuel pressure when i changed the injectors...

amondchristopher

Anybody!!!!?????

Black Knight RX7 FC3S

iTrader: (7)

check your timing, and seeing how you have a safc, you have a wideband to go along with that to see if you are at the right AFR at idle and at WOT

959595rotor

I think you have a vac leak test your vacum first then if its is low(less than 14psi)look for a air leak by spraying water over the vac lines as well as the intake manifold , also look for missing vac lines ,or may be you have a broken vac line if you have been messing with the throttle body you might have to re set the throttle plates clearance , are your plugs brown or black ,you might be getting too much fuel as well,check for a loose screw on the fuel pressure reg under the white plastic cap,

blackrotary23

seeing how you have an safc on it, you need to make sure that the thing is tuned properly. look at the lo and hi points and post what the lo is and what the hi is. if you are running 0% all down the line in low (for some odd reason) and you have your hi tuned however it is other than 0% and your correction and throttle points are off, then yeah, it will be bucking if there is not enough fuel or too much fuel. just post your lo and hi points and what your throttle point is set at.

amondchristopher

just got done replacing the primarys didnt see any vac lines off some vac plugs dry rotted(replaced) cleaned up the grounds . stupid newbi Q. can i run anothe wire to the ground spot for the ecu that is under the intake and ground it from the batt.????


Blackrotary23 ...........im always changing the values
Low 1k= -2, 2K =0, 3.5K +1 ,4k +2 , 5k +3 , 6k +4 ,7k+4, 8k +4
High 1 =0 , 2 +1 , 3.5 +3 , 4+ 5 , 5 +6 , 6 +8 7&8 +9
throttle point low= 50 high=99 ..............

any suggestions to wtf im doing
after changing the injectors the car seemed to run little better still the hiccup WOT
AFR is very lean between 1k-2.5k thin slam to rich (with the power back) 3k- redline. during the load AFR is back and forth (rich to lean back to rich) WTF WTF WTF ..............

amondchristopher

check for a loose screw on the fuel pressure reg under the white plastic cap,[/QUOTE]

I think i know what your talking about is that by the throttle by firewall ?? and is the screw needed to be fully seated.

blackrotary23

my suggestion is to disconnect the safcII and make sure that the tps wires are spliced back together after you take it off. see how it runs without the safc

959595rotor

make sure your air flow meter clamps are tight, then I would test the fuel pressure under load if it has full pressure under WOT ,if not you have a pump issue, If however you have good pressure you either have a vac leak, or a electrical issue, ps did you check the injectors for flow or are they new ,you could also have a poor injector clip,I had one that when taken off looked perfect ,but when pushed on, one of the brass clips whould push back and the injector would not go on,I hate to say it but you will have to double check every thing you touched, been there......good luck and keep in touch

amondchristopher

Both secondary injector clips are cracked now waiting of new ones . thanks for you 2s input keep ya all posted .........................

959595rotor

a couple of things......check color codes on injector wires...confirm they are going to the proper injectors. it has happened that they have been accidentally mixed up. here is the schematic....12 volt supply to all is black/yellow.... and now...from the outside to the inside .........front secondary is light green/white......rear secondary is light green/red.....front primary is solid light green ..and the rear primary is light green/black. get the engine running and pour a 2 liter of water all around the intake and injectors and any place that could leak air...if the eng stumbles...there's your problem. hope you didn't drop anything down the intake and broke a apex seal ( compression check). check that you have your vacuum/boost sensor hooked up (right fender apron). and....as long as the computer has a 12 volt supply...a full time 12 volt supply for memory...a and ground ...power to coils and injectors ....the only ground it needs to run is from the computer to the engine (underneath the intake manifold).i hope you used new inj. o-rings and gaskets ...................................cal

Sirous's RX7

check your intake see if there is any leaks my tubing wasnt mounted on right and mounted it right and fixed the problem

amondchristopher

Noticed my trailing coils arn not in spec when performing resistance check the both are around 1.6- 2 ohms fsm says .02 -1 ohms are these bad ?? air bypass solenoid valve , one wire broke off replacing. ...... poured water around intake ... engine did not stumble at all

959595rotor

coils should be ok, repair the air bypass but leave it unplugged for now,next check what voltage the alternator is putting out, it should be (13.5 volts),next,check to see if all your spark plugs are firing,pull of one wire at a time off of the coils ( after removing them first, then replacing them loosely back on)when you do this use only one hand and do not touch the car with your body, as it stops you from getting a shock if the wire is removed(pulled out a short distance) you can tell if they are working by the spark being emitted from the wire to the coil , next try changing your spark plugs they can look good but may be shorting out deep down inside,or just have a burnt tip and wide gap,next you should try to establish a Idle speed that will run the engine,try adjusting your idle(top screw)upper manifold till it does, after that we will have you adjust the TPS sensor and the rich lean Idle mixture..............keep in touch....................... Fred