Myke87Rx7

alright everyone, i have a fraken-rotary the body is 86, the transmission is 87 turbo, and has n/a diff. i have a broken motor mount and the n/a engine is going to ****! but thats not a problem i planned on swapping to TII, im going into the military and im going to basic this summer, so come fall once im back im gonna have that sign on bonus buddy! so funds really arent going to be a problem, but ive heard that the wiring from na to turbo can be a pain in the *** and i really dont have the tools and the garage for the swap a couple of my friends do but, no one really has time for an engine swap. but only seven miles away there is a rotory and turbo specialist, the only in the midwest. banzai-racing you may have heard of it. alot of my friends have had problems with him. but i understand he doesnt sell parts hes just there for labor, but he could swap an engine with one hand tied behind his back blindfolded. but he's kinda pricey. id also have the TII rebuilt and ported. new motor mounts and all that. but the question is, should i just get rid of the n/a and find a TII that needs a little work and just have him rebuild it, or should i buy a used jdm engine, have him rebuild it port it new motor mounts ect?

ITSWILL

iTrader: (12)

you could go either way, I imagine it would be easier to start with a turbo car though.

Myke87Rx7

ya but the thing is i have an n/a so id have to take the time to sell it which wouldnt be hard, and find a TII thats close ya dig

Banzai-Racing

iTrader: (11)

I think you mean ONE FRIEND, that insisted on calling my shop a dozen different times asking to buy rotor housings so he could rebuild his engine himself. We made it clear the first call that we do not sell rotors or housings. Then had the gall to come by looking to buy a hood for his TII swap. If money is not a problem sell your car and buy a single turbo FD, they are cheap in this economy.

Evil Aviator

Sell your car and buy one that is in good shape and can pass an emissions test. You will not be allowed to get a base pass unless the car can pass at least a visual inspection. Expect a visual safety inspection every long holiday weekend. Emission inspections are also required in certain regions, but you will ALWAYS want to be able to pass emissions because you could change duty stations as often as every 24 months, and the last thing you will want to deal with is a car that you can't drive on base.

maz87t2

iTrader: (6)

its really not that hard to do the swap if u have the computer, wiring harness, sensors and whatnot. and if u could find the drive shaft and diff it wouldnt be bad at all. since u already have the tranny.

MyRolla

naa

Big88chevy

iTrader: (5)

Buy a complete S4 T2 motor with bad apex seal, Get it rebuilt, buy the driveshaft. Buy a used microtech and a couple more little things and ur done.

rolfs_7

Big88chevy u really think he needs to be installing an engine? or a microtech or for that matter tunning a boosted car? i dont think so. not saying he cant or hes stupid just saying these arnt things 2 do when u dont know whats going on. myke you would be better off selling the car banking the money from the military and buying an FD or TII that has no issues.

Big88chevy

iTrader: (5)

ya know, i didnt think of it like that but ur kinda right. BUT, ya gotta start somewhere i guess. If u(MYKE87rx7) have any kind of car knowledge maybe its worth a shot.

But if u dont know what ur doing rolfs is right, u may just dig a deeper hole for urself.

rolfs_7

myke if you do a swap...get someplace that you will have time and can let it sit cuz these things dont happen overnight when you go into wiring usually. you will be chasing gremlins for a while till it gets just right. trust me i know. Big88chevy is right tho You have to start somwhere.

MazdaRX7.ws

In my opinion logically I think it might not be worth it for you to sell your car which already has problems and then buy a t2 with a blown engine..

Why??

.... If the car you currently have has issues you won't be able to sell it for the same amount of money you will have to invest into a t2 with a blown engine! I know you say money is not an issue but there are other things you should think about and consider.

The other things are...
If money is NOT an issue and your car(the body) is str8 and rust free keep it. By keeping you don't lose money on the sale and purchase of a t2 w/blown engine.

Then again If you did sell your car and buy a t2 with blown engine now you had to take money out of your pcoket to pay the difference between sale price and purchase price. Instead use that money wisely.

How to use that money wisely..
Well if you plan on going t2, you saved money by keeping your car. Just have a sick *** engine built. At that point it really doesn't matter which car you have. They will both have blown engines and you will be building a engine regardless of which car the engine is for. BUT you saved money by keeping your car!So you don't lose money but you have the engine built. (also your engine is a 6port, use your housings then go t2 rotors. lower compression in a 6port engine! Ahhh better then t2... any1 correct me if I am wrong)

Obviously if you are talking about porting the engine you are obviously looking to make power... Am I right??

Well then whats next? An exhaust? Well once you change the exhaust for get about the stock ecu... Your boost will spike up to over the pre set amount the stock ecu can supply enough fuel for. Do you wanna do it half assed if you say money isn't an issue? Let me guess... A FCD??? No way man... Do it right!! Especially if you have the money.

Now here is where the money you saved on the sale and pruchase come into play.. You will be better off as well as save the time and wiring headaches of a t2 ecu and harness... Just get a stand alone with the money you saved from the purchase of the t2. Then you will be setting up your car right and it will be more reliable! (even if you do buy the t2 and port the engine and exhaust stock ecu.... No way!)

Yeah don't forget you have the t2 tranny already just get a t2 drive shaft, and plate for the rear to connect it to the n/a rear. The na rear will handle it. Then when you want you replace the rear of you need to.

Hey that is just what I think and also what I would do if it was me and $$money was NOt an issue. To me it is a no brainer and pretty logical.

Big88chevy

iTrader: (5)

I agree with all of that except..... If u are building a powerful T2 motor y would u keep the n/a rear?

Yes the n/a rears can handle a t2 motor, i ran it for a couple of months, but if ur gonna beef up the motor why not shell out the $200-300 for a T2 rear. Plus, if u wanna get the Mazdatrix converted driveshaft you would be paying wayyyyy too much.

somebody5788

Myke as your friend I am going to say that ya that's gonna be a nice sign on bonus but EVERYONE always talks about getting it from the army plans a lot of **** then something comes up. Don't count on the money till its in your pocket. Now onto my opinions on what you should do. First don't get an FD. I have a steady job and a good income for my age and could sell my car and buy one straight up but I wont because the maintenance of an FD is just a bit too much. I'm sure a single turbo FD is slightly more reliable w/ the right setup but you still run into a shorter engine life due to boost. What I would do is get an S5 w/ a blown engine. Get a street ported short block do a minor emissions removal (not to the extent I did on my TII) port the intake, full racing beat exhaust, some decent rims and tires, and coil overs. This can be done for about 3500 bux and if its a good rebuild will last you for quite a long time w/ relatively little problems. As far as power this is plenty to have some fun with. My friends new S4 would of given my TII a run for its money and he's got a similar list to what I just posted. I wouldn't mind helping out swapping a new engine into it if you got something like this I just don't want to take on another swap haha. If you want I can give you a ride in my buddies new RX-7 just to show you what this setup could feel like and I am sure you would be happy with it. He says he beat a 2005 Mustang GT I can't verify it but Rolf thinks its possible if it was an auto. You could also swap an S5 engine into your current car and do the same mod list but I think you would be better off looking for a clean S5 like I had. I'm not sure if you will ever find one that clean for 600 bux again but I have seen some passable ones for 1k. Hit me up and we can throw some idea's back and forth.

And Chris your really exaggerating things a bit here. Perhaps if you knew that those calls were not all ME. I called you 1 time asking about housings and once for the hood and then when I told 2 of the guys that you didn't sell them they decided they had to try for themselves. So ya they all called from the shops number but just because of that doesn't mean it was all me. Anyways I just don't like how you run things that's my opinion who cares just get over it. Didn't help that you lost your temper and started yelling at me at your shop and kicked me out. Also you were totaly willing to sell me your TII hood until I mentioned I had a imported turbo engine. Suddenly that means its gonna blow? It had 95 psi compression on all faces sitting on the crate turning over w/ a battery. Then the new owner ran a compression check a couple months after I sold her it and it had 100+ something tells me the engines fine but maybe I don't have a clue what I am talking about. It's been running since May 17th and I just saw it again on Sunday when Rolf and I installed a new clutch in it and its running just as good as before no cold or hot start issues and no flooding. I did make the mistake of removing the dash pots so when its cold and you let the rev's fall to fast between gears it sometimes dies but thats a minor inconvenience.

MazdaRX7.ws

From what I heard n/a rear can hold up to about 380-400 hp. I am not sure if it is true. If it is then why change it? I would put it to the test. Then replace it when the gears and all chewed up. LOL ha ha ha

Only shitting thing about that is maybe a towing bill....

somebody5788

n/a rear holds up pretty well. You also don't need to buy a modified drive shaft 10 min and the turbo shaft fits a n/a dif and will not have an issue since its hub centric.

ITSWILL

iTrader: (12)

yeah the na differential can hold some power, but for how long is the question.

I have messed up 2 turbo differentials with nearly stock turbo engines wth the boost turned up.

NoPistons!

iTrader: (3)

Pwned.



Buy a supra. I hear girls love those.

Big88chevy

iTrader: (5)

Ya, i guess u could drill out the flange or something but i just figured he would want to do everything right the first time as not to risk being stranded somewhere. And i do agree that the n/a rear is quite strong, I actually have an n/a lsd rear on my car right now.But im going to install a T2 whenever i have time to get it from my buddy.

....and the women def love the Supras

Myke87Rx7

ha nice straying off topic everyone dont worry ill figure things out on my own i just wanted some opinions to help my decison, and no supra for me, im stickin with my fc =]

MazdaRX7.ws

I pretty much stuck to your topic. Read my first post on here agin. Then sit down and think about it...

No matter what you do good luck in the srevice and good luck with your car.

Myke87Rx7

ya i read your first post, you did give me a good idea of what to do, but i still have until around august to really make up my mind. and thanks