Won't Stay Running
#1
Sideways
Thread Starter
Won't Stay Running
Okay, I've got a 91N/A that won't stay running. I bought the block around this time last year. The compression on each rotor was 110+. It's sat mostly the entire time since then until tonight. I figured it was flooded from attempting to crank it this past weak. So I took out the bottom two plugs, put some atf in it, and it fired right up and ran until I took my foot off the gas. I tried cranking it again after that but it would just rumble and try to start. I did a poor man's compression test on it and I got even bursts of pressure every time it hit on both plugs. The gas that's in the cars been in it for nearly a year. I added about 5 gallons of fresh gas and some sea foam to it to help flush it out. So what could my problem be? I have no vacuum leaks that I know of. It's got new plugs and wires, New fuel pump, New fuel filter, New battery, New starter, most if not all the vacuum lines are new.
#4
Moderator
iTrader: (1)
You state you have no vacuum leaks that you know of. This does not sound too convincing. Sure it's possible that you have no vacuum leaks but you would not be the first to suggest there are no leaks when indeed there are. If you have to fight the car from conking out then you likely have a vacuum leak or a problem with fuel delivery.
#5
Sharp Claws
iTrader: (30)
everyone sais they have no vacuum leaks. truth is, everyone has vacuum leaks.
almost every car i had in the shop had vacuum leaks! unaware to their owners.
just because everything looks fine and dandy doesn't mean it is. smoke tests don't work and people are too lazy to pressure test or simply replace the gaskets, hoses and seals preventatively on a 25 year old engine. 20% of the time when seeing someone who replaced their engine the gaskets and seals were replaced, except the laziness showed there in the form of chunks of gaskets on the mating surfaces causing uneven sealing surfaces and vacuum leaks at the joints, poorly capped ports, poorly sealed injectors, loose hoses and open hoses.
course most of those instances were teens through mid 20's owners, who i assume chose to go back inside to play X-box instead of spend the extra 10 minutes to do the job right.
the larger the vacuum leaks are the more difficult it is to keep the engine from stalling.
almost every car i had in the shop had vacuum leaks! unaware to their owners.
just because everything looks fine and dandy doesn't mean it is. smoke tests don't work and people are too lazy to pressure test or simply replace the gaskets, hoses and seals preventatively on a 25 year old engine. 20% of the time when seeing someone who replaced their engine the gaskets and seals were replaced, except the laziness showed there in the form of chunks of gaskets on the mating surfaces causing uneven sealing surfaces and vacuum leaks at the joints, poorly capped ports, poorly sealed injectors, loose hoses and open hoses.
course most of those instances were teens through mid 20's owners, who i assume chose to go back inside to play X-box instead of spend the extra 10 minutes to do the job right.
the larger the vacuum leaks are the more difficult it is to keep the engine from stalling.
Last edited by RotaryEvolution; 10-08-15 at 09:00 AM.
#6
Sideways
Thread Starter
You state you have no vacuum leaks that you know of. This does not sound too convincing. Sure it's possible that you have no vacuum leaks but you would not be the first to suggest there are no leaks when indeed there are. If you have to fight the car from conking out then you likely have a vacuum leak or a problem with fuel delivery.
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#8
Sideways
Thread Starter
That's was when the engine was pulled nearly a year ago. I'm going to put some new injectors on and see what it gets me. After changing the spark plugs it starts up immediately with the pedal to the floor but it'll drop to 500rpm and idle for 1-3 seconds and then cut out no matter how much throttle it's given.
#10
Sideways
Thread Starter
5-12 on primary and 2-5 on secondary?
#17
Sideways
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