Gen2n3

iTrader: (1)

Pete,

Could you attach the instructions/schematics for the 529T? I would need to see the schematic while reading your post to see what you see. Additionally, did you draw any schematics on your own to graft the 529T to your car's wiring? If so, could you also attach it?

Cheers,
George

Pete_89T2

iTrader: (4)

George,

Referring to the the attached 529T manual, page 1 has some basic info about the 529T, and provides the wiring color code by function. Unfortunately, they don't provide a schematic of what's inside the black box, lol. Anyway, page 2 describes what they mean by a "Type A" (outputs rest at ground), and if you refer to the Mazda FSM/wiring diagrams of the FC power window circuit, you'll see how the FC fits that model. Also on page 2, the last of the two example schematics, which is for a sunroof, but functionally equivalent to what I want to do with my driver's side window (i.e., one touch up & down), is how I have hooked up now (i.e., splicing the motor R/B & G/B wires). Without the 4 remaining 529T wires mentioned in my post connected, the windows operate normally, but after taking an ammeter measurement on the switch side while running, it's pulling full motor current (~3 amps max in my case; after I refurbished/cleaned & lubed the PW regulators), so the 529T is just acting as a dumb pass through.

Cheers,
Pete

Gen2n3

iTrader: (1)

Pete,

After reading your description and looking at the schematic you provided, I came up with the attached schematic. Things to take note:
1. From the 529T instructions, "The module is only activated as long as the activation input(s) are grounded and the module "sees" a moving motor on its outputs." This means the Orange and Orange/Black wires must be used.

2. In the attached schematic, the O(range) and O(range)/B(lack) wires from the 529T module are connected together then one is connected to the Ground coming off the switch (DR-09, Black). It doesn't matter where these wires are connected to one another because the Ground wire (Black) from the switch is Ground.

3. The 529T module B(lack) wire must be connected to chassis ground separately!

4. The 529T module R(ed) wire is connected to Switched +12V signal from connector DR-09, B(lack)/R(ed).

5. The only thing missing from your original description was the Activation Input for the Up and Down positions. Those are the Orange and Orange/Black wires, respectively. This should give you the auto-up and auto-down function.

6. Remember to cut the respective Up and Down wires in between the module's Side 1 and Side 2 wires.

7. The 529T module will only work without the relay mod, the original intent of this thread. Of which, thank you for stating that you removed the relay mod from the driver's side!

8. Leave the remaining wires from the 529T module isolated from one another.

Give this a shot and see how the driver side window operates.

Cheers,
George

Pete_89T2

iTrader: (4)

George,

Thanks, what you described in your schematic, connecting both the O and O/B activation wires to ground, is something I noted in the manual as well and already experimented with. Unfortunately no joy there - they still just behave like normal power windows; tried playing with the duration of my "one touch" button press technique (long, short & everything in between) with no change. Physically, I connected the Black (ground) and O & O/B activation wires to a ring terminal and bolted it to the door for ground. I could have spliced the factory ground wire (also black), but that shouldn't make a difference in this case (i.e., simple DC circuit).

Re: "7. The 529T module will only work without the relay mod, the original intent of this thread. Of which, thank you for stating that you removed the relay mod from the driver's side! " -- It's true that the 529T requires that it sees full motor current to work, but if you install your 529T on the switched/high current side of your relays (or 451m's) in theory it should work just the same, as the 529T still sees full motor current. Anyway, I removed my 451s first to temporarily to test the basic 529T install; intent was to put them back in once I got the 529T working to get the benefit of reduced current through the factory switches.

Anyway, I've stumbled across another possible solution on the net that looks promising that may be easier & cheaper - junkyard Ford parts! Involves pulling a 5 wire ford module from just about any late 90's - early 2000's ford that had 1 touch down windows. The gist of this hookup is 1 wire goes to ground, one to +12V switched, one to the "switch" side & one to the "motor" side of the high current motor leg you want to control (Down or Up direction), and the last wire taps into the other motor leg (direction that is not controlled). Apparently if you want to control both up & down directions, you'll need to get 2x ford modules, Once I have a chance to verify the information, instructions and do some testing, I'll post up the specifics.

Cheers,
Pete

Gen2n3

iTrader: (1)

Pete,

Thank you for the feedback. The reason I had the O and O/B wires from the module routed to the B wire from the switch is because that black wire from the switch is a direct path to ground from the motor in either direction. I suspect the activation wires needed to feel that current flow. Granted, ground is ground but in the case of the O and O/B wires, they need to sense that current flow from the B wire off the switch. Physically connecting the black wire from the module to the activation wires does provide a ground however, the module cannot sense the flow from the motor. That is another reason why the manufacturer states in the note, "Bench tests are ineffective if there is no moving motor present on the outputs!"

The other feature that I was not sure about was the full-up or full-down control with the standard FC window switch. When I read the directions you provided, I was under the impression that this auto-up/down feature only works on vehicles that have it - but the reason to use this module offers control for alarm systems. I did not really get a warm fuzzy feeling that this would add a full-up/down function into a standard window switch. I now believe that a switch is needed with an extra position. The FD has that type of switch and the full-down function works very well on it. It has an delay module integrated into the switch. Physically, the switch assembly between the FC and FD are incompatible because they are sized and shaped differently.

I'm not really certain that finding Ford modules would solve your problem unless you use the same switches that accompany that Ford module. I believe some other members posted about using window switches from other Mazda cars such as the MPV that fit. It may have the auto-down function you seek.

I wish you the best of luck on your hunt to add the auto-up/down window function to the FC and to read about your exploits. Thanks for the opportunity to lend a hand. It is a shame that it didn't have a more positive outcome, for now. I have one other recommendation - start a new thread to document your exploration into this auto-up/down circuit function as we started to pull away from the original intent of this thread.

May you have a Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year!
Cheers,
George