2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

What if I unlink the MOP on my S4

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Old Nov 13, 2007 | 11:36 AM
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What if I unlink the MOP on my S4

... and then premix, the MOP will block the oil or not? I'll have synthetic oil then. But have to be sure take of the link to TB is enough to diable the MOP.
Thanks!

Matthieu
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Old Nov 13, 2007 | 11:51 AM
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even unhooked i believe it will deliver a small amount of oil from its injectors.
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Old Nov 13, 2007 | 12:50 PM
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F!
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Old Nov 13, 2007 | 01:21 PM
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It will still inject a portion of oil. Unhooking the linkage will prevent it from injecting more oil when throttle is increased.

I did this and premixed for a while until I was able to block off the OMP.
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Old Nov 13, 2007 | 01:49 PM
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It'll be a very small amount as they said above. Really, just go heat up the engine. Remove the rod from the throttle body and let the OMP lever go full down. Remove a couple of the banjo bolts that hold the lines on. Set those lines off to the side so you won't get fooled by any dripping from them as being an output from the OMP.

Start the engine and let it IDLE. Count the drops or lack of drops. Minimal amount will be seen. Not worth talking about. From the holes in the OMP where the banjo bolts were, is what I"m talking about.
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Old Aug 8, 2008 | 03:06 PM
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And what about insert my block off plate (don't want to remove UIM for now) between the MOP and Engine?
Any stuff like a rod or a cam going through both?
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Old Aug 8, 2008 | 04:20 PM
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i still don't understand the reasoning of premix if your MOP (or OMP?) works fine...do you guys also blend your food and drink together when consuming meals? :/
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Old Aug 8, 2008 | 07:27 PM
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Do this. Remove the operating rod. Then undo a couple of the banjo bolts that hold the oil injector lines on the omp. Let the oil drain out of the lines for a couple of minutes or so.

Now go start the engine and idle it til it's HOT. Rev the engine to two grand and hold it there for a couple of minutes. I'd bet you won't see much oil come out of the OMP where the banjo bolts were connected. So if it's such a small amount if that much, why worry about that miniscule amount of engine oil????????? Got me. I wouldn't.

Heck. Hold it at five grand for a couple of minutes for all I care. ROD DISCONNECTED FROM THE THROTTLE BODY as mentioned at the beginning. Lever on the OMP full DOWN.

Ah, fudge. Go for seven grand for five minutes. I'm in a good mood and it's your car, not mine.
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Old Aug 9, 2008 | 03:02 AM
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Jordan,
in France to find right specs for a mineral oil is hard, to find a synth as Mobil1 or Castrol is cheaper and far more simple!

Hailers,
"I'm in a good mood and it's your car", you are welcome to be franck and say what you want to say!
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Old Aug 9, 2008 | 06:39 AM
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If I were you, I'd pull two of the banjo bolts out, then with a fully hot engine and MOP rod disabled, rev the engine to two grand and hold it there for two minutes. See how much oil comes out the MOP. Put a container under the pump to collect it. I'm guessing there will be some oil, but not a significant amount of oil collected during that two minutes (OMP rod disconnected and fully down).

So if the amount is insignificant, take that into consideration. I've never done what I described above. Might do it someday, not today.
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Old Aug 9, 2008 | 08:04 AM
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Just remove the entire system and make a block off plate from aluminum. you can buy them pre-made as well. youll need to make up a gasket. oil proof gasket maker will work fine for this job.
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Old Aug 9, 2008 | 09:04 AM
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No need to waste your time and effort doing the above imho.
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Old Aug 9, 2008 | 09:10 AM
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OK guys,
I leave it in that shape for now (OEM) and will block it off when it'll be a non-daily car.

Thanks!
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Old Aug 9, 2008 | 10:01 AM
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Originally Posted by Malefoda
Jordan,
in France to find right specs for a mineral oil is hard, to find a synth as Mobil1 or Castrol is cheaper and far more simple!
If that's you only reason to go premix, then just run synthetic with the metering oil pump. It's fine. Has not been a problem for many years, and even originally it was just a few brands that caused deposits.
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Old Aug 9, 2008 | 10:52 AM
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Whatever. I was a bit wrong.

First jpg is with one banjo removed and a spare banjo with clear vinyl line attached. This is how much oil goes in the line at idle with a hot engine in a five minute period. OMP rod disconnected and lever full down. The red arrow points to the clear line.

Second jpg is the same condition but with the rpms at a steady 2000 rpm for five minutes. Got some oil. Maybe a inch and a half. Multiply that by four.

Third jpg didn't turn out for flip. Anyway. It was with the OMP rod full UP and at almost three grand for five minutes. Oppps. The line filled up a bit more than a foots worth of oil in less than five minutes. Multiply by 4 and you have quite a bit more than a miniscule amount. So I guessed a bit wrong.

If you want it blocked of, just put four bolts in the 4 holes. Not banjo bolts, just bolts. Done and finished.
Attached Thumbnails What if I unlink the MOP on my S4-ompidlefiveminutes.jpg   What if I unlink the MOP on my S4-ompidletwogrand.jpg  
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Old Aug 9, 2008 | 10:52 AM
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And we also have easy to find "mineral based" or "semi-synthèse", that last is never in the fight! Maybe a good "semi-synthèse"?
For the mineral we have to prepare group buy and buy by tons! Very anoying!
Anyone with the "ideal" flash point spec?
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Old Aug 9, 2008 | 04:55 PM
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http://www.lubadmin.com//Restitution...0&Parametre1=2

Here we go, all oils have almost the same "flash point" (Point éclair in french):
between 218 (for a synth! but 5W40 were I was looking for 10W40 or 10W30) and 224 for semi and 230 for mineral?! OMG I don't understand...
The other hand of this company (this was Elf) is Total... they have higer flash point ! I've had a look to Mobil 1: higer than 230!

Last edited by Malefoda; Aug 9, 2008 at 05:23 PM.
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Old Aug 9, 2008 | 10:21 PM
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Why not do a 2-stroke injection conversion? There's a guy who makes a block that can pull from a separate container and inject 2-stroke oil into the chamber (only the amount that the motor needs, not the MAX that you have to do for premix), and then use synthetic for cooling.
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Old Aug 10, 2008 | 11:12 AM
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It's just easier and less complicated to delete the OMP and put 2 stroke in your gas tank. Plus filling up your gas tank mixes the oil around giving you an equal amount at all times.
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Old Aug 10, 2008 | 12:33 PM
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Right, but that's the problem with premixing...you have to account for the time when you'd need the highest mix of oil/gas (WOT). *Every* other time you're just using too much oil, and possibly losing power because of it.

I don't see how it's necessarily easier. With the bolt-on part that goes on top of the MOP that some guy makes, you just mount a container and connect the hoses. :/
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Old Aug 10, 2008 | 02:05 PM
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How do you have to account for it? The amount of fuel needed depends on your throttle pedal. If the oil is evenly mixed into the fuel then how is there a problem? All you do is dump your desired amount of oil into the gas tank and fill 'er up. It doesn't get any easier.
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Old Aug 10, 2008 | 03:46 PM
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more throttle==more rpm==more heat==more oil needed for lubrication (since more will be burned off at higher temps)

Obviously this isn't the best of analogies, but when you get thirsty (not from activity), do you go drink a bottle of water real quick? Of course not. But you do drink more water than you normally would at once after you've been running around. Premixing would be like gulping water down whenever you wanted a drink.
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Old Aug 10, 2008 | 06:38 PM
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Lets try a better analogy...instead of water how about a cold Molson Ice!
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Old Aug 10, 2008 | 07:38 PM
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Haha, not bad...I'm not a big fan of water anyway
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