Remove Mop Then Premix Or Leave Mop On & Premix?
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From: ma
my mop is dead - frozen according to mazda. can i still premix and leave on the MOP or will it cause problems? Assuming that the pump is broken completely and not doing it job any longer - can I just premix and keep the pump attached or is it safer to remove the mop entirely?
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From: London, Ontario, Canada
I have a hard time believing the metering oil pump is "frozen". Have you removed it and checked for yourself? If you know the way it is driven by the engine, you will understand my disbelief.
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From: ma
The car was sitting for a long time here in New England - The cold weather apparently is known to kill the MOP. The pump is still installed with the rod in the upright position and the idle back to normal. I pre-mixed for the first time on Saturday - all seems to be well so far.
Originally posted by jtm7878
The car was sitting for a long time here in New England - The cold weather apparently is known to kill the MOP. The pump is still installed with the rod in the upright position and the idle back to normal. I pre-mixed for the first time on Saturday - all seems to be well so far.
The car was sitting for a long time here in New England - The cold weather apparently is known to kill the MOP. The pump is still installed with the rod in the upright position and the idle back to normal. I pre-mixed for the first time on Saturday - all seems to be well so far.

And I agree with Aaron that cold weather is not really going to mess with an MOP unless it is really bad. I say throw out the MOP.
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you think I should take off the MOP? Mazda disabled it while I was there and made sure the rod was disco from the throttle. I've been reading its ok to keep on... but if you guys think I should remove it then so be it...
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yes, exactly. The service department was horrible. I arrived on Saturday to pick-up my car and they did not put it together. I ended up paying $107 and put my car back together, but I got my money back after complaining.
Rip that mop right off and plug the oil injector holes with metric bolts and loctite. Premix .75 oz TCW-3 2 stroke oil per gallon of fuel. I've said it before and I'll say it again: crankcase oil does not belong in the combustion chamber of any engine!
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Its dead. The rod is in the upright position, stuck. I've been pre-mixing and notice little, little smoke at start-up and no smoke while driving. I think the pre-mixing is going fine. Valvoline said to use the ENGINE FLUSH (non-syn) to burn the engine oil/gas build-up once a year and I should be fine.
The only reason people are saying to remove the MOP is just to remove the clutter and possible prevent any oil that might sneak through from getting into the combustion chamber now that you're premixing. Without using the oil from the pan to fire into the cylinders, you can run synthetic oil in the motor with no worries...wheee.
Originally posted by cbrock
Without using the oil from the pan to fire into the cylinders, you can run synthetic oil in the motor with no worries...wheee.
Without using the oil from the pan to fire into the cylinders, you can run synthetic oil in the motor with no worries...wheee.
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Make sure you use a TCW-III certified oil and you should do fine. Enjoy the pre-mix.
________________________________
How do you know its certified TCW-3 certified? The oil I am using just states 2-stroke TCW-3 oil. I guess I will just remove the pump, but I'll need to buy the block off plate.
________________________________
How do you know its certified TCW-3 certified? The oil I am using just states 2-stroke TCW-3 oil. I guess I will just remove the pump, but I'll need to buy the block off plate.
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