I probably get flamed but I searched and had too much garbage to sift through. I read Racing Beat's break-in and it said high idle (define?) 30-45 minutes with 20W mineral oil, and other site said low idle several hours.

I have 20W50 Valvoline VR-1 (contains zinc-phosphorus), and have done a mix of low idle and high idle (~2000 rpm) to get all the air out of the coolant system. Total cumulative time so far about 10-15 minutes. Now I need to do the real break-in. Opinions appreciated on process recommended by the engine builders out there? 90 na

 

I took it easy for about 500 miles, not allowing revs to get above 4000. After 500 miles, a fresh oil change was in order, then the beating ensued. I only had one problem with the actual engine build part... I didn't put red thread locker on the e-shaft pulley and the bolt backed itself out on the freeway. Otherwise the engine build was a success, and the break-in was sufficient.

 

Here is how I do it.

http://www.rotaryresurrection.com/2n...p_breakin.html

 

I've always done 1000 mile break ins: Oil change at 500mi, under 3K RPM until about then and slowly bring it up until the end of the 1000.

I'm also told that doing lots of varied driving is better than going on a long freeway run.

 

Thanks, and I did look at Rotary Resurrection before I posted my question. What about multi-viscosity oils?? Some sites say use single weight mineral based oils?

I used lock-tite blue on the e-shaft pulley. I hope that keeps the bolt in place. I'll keep an eye on that.

 

I've read the amount of new parts involved can influence things as well. I remember asking basically the same question seven years ago after I bought a TII with a fresh rebuild. I recall the consensus with a high content of used parts was just not to run it extremely hard for the first 1000 miles and then change the oil.

 

Just use regular mineral oil for the break in [synthetic doesn't let the surfaces wear as much - which is good except when you're trying to get the parts to wear together]. Multi viscosity is ALWAYS what you want to run unless it's [literally] a race car.

If you're careful you can remove that bolt and redo it with red loctite

 

I wasn't planning on removing the hub bolt. I'm hoping blue is good enough to keep it in place.

 

i've done it two ways. usually i just fire it up, let it fast idle (1000-2000rpm, its not important how fast), for 15-20 minutes while i look for leaks, and make sure its working properly, let the cooling system bleed, etc. then the car just gets driven, avoiding full throttle and more than 4000rpm for about 500-1000 miles, oil change and then you're good to go!

the race cars we used to just put a giant fan in front of em, and let em fast idle in the parking lot for 45 minutes and then we hit the track.

it does depend on what actually got replaced, if you look at the mazda comp website they want a longer break in with new bearings vs used ones.

either way its not a boinger, so things like zddp and changing the revs don't apply, as we don't have valve lifters and piston rings.

 

Only reason I used zddp oil was for metal to metal contact of internals. Thought it may help until the new OMP lines get primed up. I put premix in the gas too. Thought it wouldn't hurt.

 

it doesn't hurt at all. in fact a little premix is probably a good idea

 

+1 when you do all the work yourself. if compression starts out the low side, you can feel it. if it has good power from the get go, get on it.....if you do your own work.

 

If your engine was built to spec your break in is really a shake down. If nothing leaks and everything is connected, one fan cycle and its ready to rock.

If you installed new bearings, and apex seals without getting clearences or did not hone up your plates and housings then yeah, some break in should be in order.

Im building an engine this week that will be installed on Saturday. It will see boost and high rpm's as soon as I can verify its not leaking coolant/oil and everything is connected.

 

I agree premix is good to use, but even after reading a million threads I am confused with the mixture ratio. My bottle says 16:1 then says 8 oz per gallon. Seems like a lot of oil to add.

As for what I used on rebuild, new housings, rotors, apex seals and side seals.

 

if you have the metering pump, you only need maybe 4oz/tank, as you're just supplementing the metering pump.

if you have no metering pump, you want about 1oz per gallon of gas

i'd assume that the bottle isn't written with the rotary in mind, so 16:1 is probably for a chainsaw, and it might sound like a rotary.....

 

The way I did it for mine was, 1000miles not going over 3000RPM. Oil change at 500miles in. Once I passed the 1000miles, I kicked it up to 5000RMPs for the next 500miles. Checked all coolant lines, oil lines. After that it was golden.

 

If you've got the MOP and you're premixing by the gallon... You can use 0.25 oz - 0.5 oz per gallon. (Adding the oil before gasoline will provide a thorough mix.)

Since your MOP lines won't be completely pressurized for the first few hundred miles, premix anywhere from 0.5 oz to 1 oz per gallon until about 200 or so miles.

 

if it's fresh engine, use the cheapest oil you can find and flush it after about 50 miles of driving, it will look like ****. don't rev over 4K

then, better oil, and drive for 500 miles, try not to rev over 4K, flush oil again

then at 1k, do the same thing

between 1K to 3 K miles, rev the engine between the whole RPM range.

after 3K, flush again, then you can beat the crap outa it.

 

Seriously, if your oil looks like **** after 50 miles of driving on a new rebuild your really doing something wrong here.

All this hocus pocus is only needed if your rebuilding on a dirt floor of an old chicken coop with only a screwdriver and a vise grip.

 

...you say that as if there aren't engines built in this manner

The shop that rebuilt mine runs a pretty lax looking operation and I honestly didn't expect it to run well at all. But to my surprise it was idling at 800 and pulling 16" vac within 5 minutes of initial startup. (goopy seals and resurfaced housings)

I put about 50 city miles on it keeping revs below 3k, and then drove it 200 miles home on the interstate. It's got 330 miles on it now and pulls 20" vac. I plan to change the oil at 500 miles (did I mention they got metal shavings in the engine grinding out the n/a exhaust sleeves) and raise my artificial redline to 5k until 1000 miles.

fingers crossed....