Water pump housing drill and tap for sensor
#5
I would drill the back of the WP housing, however, I really don't feel like removing it if I don't need to.
I know the alternator sits around the area I wanted to drill, but the spot I'm looking at is actually to to right of the alternator a bit, and there's plenty of room. Just wasn't sure if the spot would get good flow, as I don't want static water temp levels.
Jack, I like your spot. May just have to use that!
And FYI, greasing up the threads on the drill bit and tap helps reduce shavings entering the WP housing. But I like the idea of being able to stiff towels in there to help. AND I don't have to remove the housing still.
I know the alternator sits around the area I wanted to drill, but the spot I'm looking at is actually to to right of the alternator a bit, and there's plenty of room. Just wasn't sure if the spot would get good flow, as I don't want static water temp levels.
Jack, I like your spot. May just have to use that!
And FYI, greasing up the threads on the drill bit and tap helps reduce shavings entering the WP housing. But I like the idea of being able to stiff towels in there to help. AND I don't have to remove the housing still.
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#11
MECP Certified Installer
If you want actual engine coolant temp, put it on the hot side where everyone has been telling you.
#12
Rotary $ > AMG $
iTrader: (7)
Meh, that is essentially the same location Mazda put the sensors. It gets the return from the Rad, but it is mixed with the return from the hot side of the engine. The thermostat regulates the mix from completely closed(all engine) to completely open (all rad return). This is the regulated temp of the engine.
#14
Thought I post a picture up of where I ended up mounting this.
Followed my original idea, but mounted it in the galley where the coolant leaves the engine. Lots of flow, accurate temps, and it's not in the way of anything. Alternator bolted up just fine. My only quam is that I opted to remove the TMIC and UIM just to get some brackets off so to have a nice clear shot with the drill and tap. Was able to almost elminate any shavings falling into the WP housing by applying some wheel bearing grease to the drill bit and had the shop vac going the whole time. Any bits that fell in, I was able to pull out with grease on the end of a wire clothes hanger.
Killed two birds by cleaning some ECU grounds while I was in there. Seems to have helped my idle/hesitation situation so far *fingers crossed*.
Pic -
Followed my original idea, but mounted it in the galley where the coolant leaves the engine. Lots of flow, accurate temps, and it's not in the way of anything. Alternator bolted up just fine. My only quam is that I opted to remove the TMIC and UIM just to get some brackets off so to have a nice clear shot with the drill and tap. Was able to almost elminate any shavings falling into the WP housing by applying some wheel bearing grease to the drill bit and had the shop vac going the whole time. Any bits that fell in, I was able to pull out with grease on the end of a wire clothes hanger.
Killed two birds by cleaning some ECU grounds while I was in there. Seems to have helped my idle/hesitation situation so far *fingers crossed*.
Pic -
Last edited by Bamato; 03-14-11 at 10:48 AM.
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