Champagne87

Okay my car has a slight flooding problem, but i have a switch installed inside the car so i can turn the injectors on and off to unflood it. Well lately she has been flooding alot, and it takes three or four tries to get her going.

Well today was horrid! She flooded so much and i couldn't get her going for anything. I tried so many times i lost count. So i let her sit for a while, still didn't work. Then i took the plugs out to let the gas evaporate. The plugs were quite wet. Then i decided to give her a quick ATF bath.

After the ATF she finally started. Oh my there was a lot of smoke! more than usually and i didn't use that much ATF. But i guess it was some gas too.

So i was kinda like WTF?! and very aggrivated . I know i need new injectors, bad. Anyone have some good clean ones they would like to donate. SSL.

MIKE-P-28

iTrader: (1)

Try getting them rebuilt, someone once said these guys were excellent, and the price isnt anywhere near new ones at 250/ea.

http://www.rceng.com/

hypntyz7

Jessica,

If you have a switch there is no reason to flood your car ever. Its not your fault but I bet you';re just not using the switch to its fullest potential. I put switches on every 2nd gen I acquire, and never have a problem thereafter, 30+ and counting.

The trick is, when the car is running, and youre rady to shut her down, flip the switch off first, and let it run until it stalls(dies). This way you're assured all the fuel is gone from the engine fuel rails, and CAN NOT flood while youre gone. Leave the switch off, and remove your key.

When you return, put in your key and crank, with the switch off. After, and only after, the car is cranking(spinning) flip the switch on, while cranking. The pump will supply fuel and the engine will fire to life. Doing it this way I have NEVER had a car flood on me.
IF you turn on the switch at any time other then while youre trying to crank the engine, it can flood.

Also, try this the next time you think you've flooded it, or just wanna give it another ATF bath. You need a hand oil pump available at autozone for $4. ITs just a plastic thing that screws into a gallon-size jug, has a hose that goes to teh bttom of the jug, and a pump shaft on top, adn a hose that runs out of that. You put it in the jug of ATF(available in gallons at walmart for $4), screw it on where the lid normally goes, and pump. SO go out to your car under the hood. Where it says 13b injection on top of the intake, there are 3 vacuum hoses in front. Remove the uppermost, largest one, and insert the end of the pump in it. This is a direct route into the ports of each rotor, so pump slowly about 4 times replace the hose, then wait a few seconds and crank her up. IT works 100% f the time and you dont have to fool with plugs, wires, fuses, or any of that BS.

ITs obvious you dont mind getting dirty on your car, but I just thought you might like a couple of pointers based on experience, that make life alot easier.

Champagne87

Thanks guys for the help.

I do use the switch to kill my engine, pull the parking brake and flip the switch. then i turn my key and take it out. As for cranking it, well when i flip the switch to get the injectors going while i'm cranking it, my RPM dial will not work once it is running, and then it does this very annoying, beep...beep So unless you can fix that it's really no fun to flip the switch while cranking. Thanks though, especially for the tips on atf, although i love to get dirty.

Scott 89t2

you should leave the switch off after you shut down. if the tach is not working then your trailing coils might not be firing. are you sure you got the right wire?... maybe you are cutting out ign. instead?

how long does it take to shut down when you turn the switch off? it should take 5-10secs.

charger-

iTrader: (1)

I remember reading someting saying that when you do this, the tach does not work because its in diagnostic mode... now with my switch it only does it sometimes.. maybe its my timing of when I turn the switch back on or something...

As for your car not starting.. if you flood it so bad, it will wash the oil out of the seals. It needs the oil to have full compression so it will start.

hypntyz7

Jessica,

Sounds as if you might have wired up your switch to a different wire than I use, and recommend to others use. Those symptoms sound like that of a car where you pull one of the fuses out at the fusebox. WHere did you tie your switch in at? The ideal place is right under the dash at the fuel pump relay, on the thick black wire. I think I can help you out if you would like to check into this. Ive never had a car with the symptoms you describe with the switch installed the way I do it, so I bet you just wired it differently somehow.

Champagne87

I'm not sure what wire it is hooked up to, i didn't install it, i bought the car with it installed already. I have heard of the fuel pump relay, and the black wire for it. I need to check it out, but electical stuff is not my specialty. The switch is uner my dash, below my steering wheel. If you can tell me what to look for, i'll try and fig it out. Or get a friend who knows more about electrical stuff. Thanks!

10TH_ANNIV_T2

Jessica,

I can vouch for RC Engineering's job, I had the same problem last year. While the switch is a good band aid, I'd really suggest getting the injectors done by these guys, you can Fedex both ways and cut the downtime time to 3 days.

Since then, I've not had any starting issues-- and I don't drive my car much, so I have all the excuses like old gas, etc. Every car is different, so it may not give you the same results. Worth a try though if you have the time, ability, inclination, and the help of a few people here.

Another option is the bleed off kit that Mazdatrix sells, although it probably costs more than what you have now.

I don't think I can part with my J-Spec injectors for a few months--gotta pull them and get them cleaned. If I decide I don't need them, maybe we can work something out.

Greg O.

hypntyz7

10th anni t2...she has an NA so your t2/jspec injectors wouldnt work on her car anyway.

Jessica,

Its really very simple. Just look under neath the dash, beside the steering column, towards the passenger side and radio, and find the black relay with the 5 wires, and the middle is thickest and black with white stripe. All you gotta do is cut it, and run each end to your switch(youll have to make extension wires of course). Using the proper connectors is better here so you can never short anything out, and it can never come loose.

First you need to find where your current switch goes. IF it were me, and I found it went anywhere other than to that black wire, Id remove the extension wires and hook those 2 wires back up like they were originally, then move my extension wires to the black wire as described above. Sounds like they tapped into something else that controls more than just the fuel pump, but you never know. I can only say that out of 30+ FCs Ive installed the switch on, Ive never heard of one doing what you described.

Just because its electrical wires dont be intimidated. ITs a lot simpler than changing plugs on a rotary! All you need to do is make tight connections and you'll be fine.

Make that boyfriend of yours get underneath the dash adn do the hard part!

copandengr

Hey everyone;
I agree with the fuel pump switch and the method described by hypntyz for using it. There is more to the story though. I went to the same lengths as others in trying to cure the flooding problem. The worst part of it was that it never seemed to flood out at home. It was always in some parking lot at night in the middle of nowhere. When I had help around, I could easily start the car by pushing it even though it was flooded. This finally struck me as a compression/cranking speed problem. One of the first things I did was to have my injectors cleaned and calibrated by RC. It did not help in my case.

My own personal experience is that when the fuel pump switch becomes needed every time you try to start your car, you are getting very close to a blown rear rotor. With my car and two others I am familiar with the problem of flooding was cured after installing the switch, but the engine blew within a couple of thousand miles. I would urge all of you having flooding problems to get a compression check. I will bet you are gonna be low on the rear rotor. An overhaul BEFORE the apex seals blow may mean the difference between using your old rotor housings and having to get new ones. The apex seal will most certainly eat the housing up when it goes.

Since I overhauled my rex in April, I have put over 10K miles on it. Even though I still have the fuel pump cut off switch installed I have yet to use it.

hypntyz7

JR,

Youre absolutely right, even though I dont go around telling people this. 90% f the time it is the rear rotor, though usually both rotors go below 100psi adn differ by 10psi between them. Most engines that flood I expect will die within the year from my experience.

I offer info on the switch to try and help the problem for now...its the difference between $2 and $2000, which most people dont have. But youre probably right, they should be aware that time is running out, and again, youre right about the rebuild BEFORE the thing blows, so you are assured re-use of both housings. BUt, again, many, if not most, dont have the time or money on hand to do it the right way.

10TH_ANNIV_T2

DOH!! Sorry about that. My bad.

Low compression-- I have to say that you are right on the money. It makes sense if you think about it.

Keep up the good work--and thanks for catching my error.

Greg O.

fastrotaries

I had my injectors done by RC-Engineering and could really vouch for their work. It's only flooded once since then, and that's because i stalled it. Now all i have to do is hold down the gas pedal and it just starts up. The best thing about the injectors is that my GAS mileage went up and it was peppier along the mid range. An ignition box such as an HI-6 or propak will also help out a little but it won't be a solution to your problem, have those injectors done and you'll feel much better about the whole thing.

All four injectors were about $100 dollars i believe and it only took 3 days from when i shipped them to getting them back. While you're there also, Please install a new pulsation Dampner..These things have a tendency to leak fuel and cause engine fires. They're not cheap though.....it's a screw that works itself loose and leaks fuel my friend and i used a little bit of thread lock to make sure it stays there.

skibum9199

Her switch is wired into the egi fuse in the engine compartment, so flicking her switch is the same as removing the fuse and cranking the motor. I don't know what else that fuse has in its circuit, but the engine dies Immediately upon turning the switch off. I tend to agree with you guys, i think her compression is low... The other day hen trying to start it I noticed that the motor sounded like it was spinning much faster than mine does when the starrter motor is turning it. Especially noticeable with the plugs out, her whoosh whoosh sound seemed nearly twice as fast. Could it be that since the engine has little compression at low rpms, the rotors arent actually compressing any air at all, and are basically free-spinning? Sorry jes, but thats kinda my theory. Need a compression check...


~Jesse

hypntyz7

Well, one more time, if it wee me, and I wanted the switch deal to work right, Id reconnect the wires out at teh fuse, like they were stock, then Id go back in and rewire my new switch as described above, adn it will work right, until such time as she needs to do a rebuild because of extra cash, or no more motor. Until then, this is the only fix for ya, take it or leave it. Do it as described above adn it *will* work!

skibum9199

kind of odd, her motor only has like 98k on the clock. Damn shame if low compression is the culprit...


~Jesse