Need an opinion on a buy
#1
Bastardized RE AE
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Need an opinion on a buy
I'm pretty new to the rx7 scene as I don't own one yet, but I have been reading everything I can about them before I buy one. You all seem very helpful so I'm asking a few questions. My question is regarding an 86 GLX with 120,000 miles for 1500 US dollars. It has only minor dents, starts easy and runs good even at idle. I test drove it and I love how it handles! There are a few things I am concerned about though.
The car seems to be lacking a lot of power. I asked him about it and he said one of the plug wires was no good. Could this be why theres no power?
Another thing is he said it has a rebuilt motor is there anyway I can tell if it is a rebuild other than compression test?
I saw it smoke once from the tail pipe (not much smoke only a puff). He said it's because the butterfly sticks sometimes and it needs to be cleaned and lubed.
How do I tell if the adjustable suspension works? I pushed the button, but seemed like nothing happened can it be fixed. Does this option adjust the shock pressure ride height or what?
-Sorry about the long post-
Thank you very much for any help you can offer! Ed
The car seems to be lacking a lot of power. I asked him about it and he said one of the plug wires was no good. Could this be why theres no power?
Another thing is he said it has a rebuilt motor is there anyway I can tell if it is a rebuild other than compression test?
I saw it smoke once from the tail pipe (not much smoke only a puff). He said it's because the butterfly sticks sometimes and it needs to be cleaned and lubed.
How do I tell if the adjustable suspension works? I pushed the button, but seemed like nothing happened can it be fixed. Does this option adjust the shock pressure ride height or what?
-Sorry about the long post-
Thank you very much for any help you can offer! Ed
#3
LS what?
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Have you bought it?
Seems like a lot of simple stuff that he could fix very easily. Why would he not do it, it would be a LOT easier to sell. I think I would stay away to be honest. The only way I would consider it is if he got the plugs and wires replaced and let you drive it. Also, get a compression test!! I think that is the best way to see if you are going to have to spend a lot of money that could have been spent on a car that looks better, lower mileage, etc. Hope this helps.
Rob
Rob
#4
Stuff...
If indeed he's had a rebuild done..... have him show you the receipt for the work (also check on the shop that did the rebuild, just because they did a rebuild doesn't mean they did it correctly) or, if he did the work himself, a receipt for the rebuild kit. Also find out at what mileage the rebuild was done.
Have a compression test done anyways, hell, have him do it if possible. If everything is cool and you don't decide to buy it, it'll be easier for him to sell the car anyways. If you don't get it done you'll be kicking yourself when YOU have to do the rebuild.
Other than that, you should be all cool 'n the gang, from what you've said everything else seems to be minor.
Happy hunting.
- No Compression. No Go.
Have a compression test done anyways, hell, have him do it if possible. If everything is cool and you don't decide to buy it, it'll be easier for him to sell the car anyways. If you don't get it done you'll be kicking yourself when YOU have to do the rebuild.
Other than that, you should be all cool 'n the gang, from what you've said everything else seems to be minor.
Happy hunting.
- No Compression. No Go.
#5
Bastardized RE AE
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Thanks for the help guys. I guess I'll do the compression test and try driving it with new plugs and wires and see if it helps the power.
What do you think is a good price for this car if compression is good?
What do you think is a good price for this car if compression is good?
#6
Rotary Freak
I routinely buy these cars, fix 'em and sell 'em...
IF what your seller is saying is true, its an okay buy.
(I stick to the 1990 model cars personally.)
Plugs cost $$$ so just "Test" the wires, "Check" the plugs, etc...
Verify that what is wrong IS what he says is wrong.
The Haynes manualy tells you how to test these things.
(you need one of these anyway - its no factory manual, but its better than nothing.)
Verify his findings.... fix nothing, better to finds more problems and give him 1200 for the car.
-X
(I stick to the 1990 model cars personally.)
Plugs cost $$$ so just "Test" the wires, "Check" the plugs, etc...
Verify that what is wrong IS what he says is wrong.
The Haynes manualy tells you how to test these things.
(you need one of these anyway - its no factory manual, but its better than nothing.)
Verify his findings.... fix nothing, better to finds more problems and give him 1200 for the car.
-X
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#8
Rotary Freak
BRAVO!
now buy a parts car for the interior!!
Call insurance companies and ask them if there is a way to get notified when one gets smashed.
I bought a parts car this way and got the whole car with engine for $500!!!
1991 black non-turbo.
Invaluable to have it parked next to me in the garage and just pull a part when i need it for PENNIES!
then tow it off and GET $50-75 from the salvage yard for letting them have it!
Sniper_X
Call insurance companies and ask them if there is a way to get notified when one gets smashed.
I bought a parts car this way and got the whole car with engine for $500!!!
1991 black non-turbo.
Invaluable to have it parked next to me in the garage and just pull a part when i need it for PENNIES!
then tow it off and GET $50-75 from the salvage yard for letting them have it!
Sniper_X
#9
Bastardized RE AE
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Thats a good idea, but I have to adress the problem of it smoking first. Once I bought the car and gutted the clogged cats it solved the no power problem, but now it smokes a lot when drivin hard. It's blue smoke so I know it's oil. I'm going to try the atf trick someone told me it worked for them.
#10
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1988 RX7 SE
hello,
motor had been replaced with a new one at 65,000 miles,
new rear end
i bought mine for: 750$$
work done:
all new brakes pads and rotors- 400.00
new front wheels bearings- 350.00
new shocks and struts-200.00
new manifold back exhaust (stock replaced manifold, silencer, pre-cat, then added a test-pipe and two high-flow mufflers)-675.00
high flow intake(cone style)-35.00
power pulleys: 145.00
new paint job: 975.00
the car was from florida, was absolute rust free, everything works and it has a sun-roof, color "bright white"-looks like a pearl essent paint with gold flake
thats about 2800 before all my labor
i have done lots more but am willing to sell if i can get what its worth---and when i say that it is rust free, i mean NO rust anywhere at all
i am asking 4000.00-but its the nivest 2nd gen oout there that is in nice shape and well-maintained
crossbar
motor had been replaced with a new one at 65,000 miles,
new rear end
i bought mine for: 750$$
work done:
all new brakes pads and rotors- 400.00
new front wheels bearings- 350.00
new shocks and struts-200.00
new manifold back exhaust (stock replaced manifold, silencer, pre-cat, then added a test-pipe and two high-flow mufflers)-675.00
high flow intake(cone style)-35.00
power pulleys: 145.00
new paint job: 975.00
the car was from florida, was absolute rust free, everything works and it has a sun-roof, color "bright white"-looks like a pearl essent paint with gold flake
thats about 2800 before all my labor
i have done lots more but am willing to sell if i can get what its worth---and when i say that it is rust free, i mean NO rust anywhere at all
i am asking 4000.00-but its the nivest 2nd gen oout there that is in nice shape and well-maintained
crossbar
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