Vert leaking water
10-11-10, 11:56 PM
#1
Vert leaking water
When it rains or I wash my car water leaks from the top of the window corners. The problem isn't rips or anything top related. The window just doesn't make a proper seal when all the way up. I can see the gaps in the corners.
What can I do to fix this? I can't find the rubber pieces on mazdatrix maybe I'm just blind.
What can I do to fix this? I can't find the rubber pieces on mazdatrix maybe I'm just blind.
10-12-10, 12:16 AM
#2
When it rains or I wash my car water leaks from the top of the window corners. The problem isn't rips or anything top related. The window just doesn't make a proper seal when all the way up. I can see the gaps in the corners.
What can I do to fix this? I can't find the rubber pieces on mazdatrix maybe I'm just blind.
What can I do to fix this? I can't find the rubber pieces on mazdatrix maybe I'm just blind.
Or what I did temporarily was put some black rtv silicon in the gaps, works great. Clearly, do it with the windows down or the top open until its dry though.
10-12-10, 01:33 AM
#4
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Black Dragon - go to their site and get a free catalog.
http://www.blackdragonauto.com/rxCatalog.htm
http://www.blackdragonauto.com/rxCatalog.htm
10-12-10, 01:39 AM
#5
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Put some cellophane on the top of your windows before you RTV it, that way, when you remove it, the plastic will come off the window and act as a barrier to keep the RTV from sticking to the glass; kinda like working with fiberglass resin and/ or epoxy.
Black Dragon won't help. They only carry coupe through '85. The vert was started in '88, so there's no way that they would have the seal(s) he'd need.
Since the weather-stripping/ window seals are on the door-frame, that would be an act of futility.
Black Dragon won't help. They only carry coupe through '85. The vert was started in '88, so there's no way that they would have the seal(s) he'd need.
Since the weather-stripping/ window seals are on the door-frame, that would be an act of futility.
10-12-10, 02:16 AM
#6
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Regardless, we do appreciate the good DIY info because the seals can be pricey depending on which one you need - $200 for each of the door seals.
10-12-10, 08:24 AM
#7
I don't think that Black Dragon has had the seals for the convertible for very long....but I'm looking at the hard copy of the 2010 Winter Edition RX.53, page 10, they're there......
Regardless, we do appreciate the good DIY info because the seals can be pricey depending on which one you need - $200 for each of the door seals.
Regardless, we do appreciate the good DIY info because the seals can be pricey depending on which one you need - $200 for each of the door seals.
Could you explain the procedure for the rtv and celophane a little more please?
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10-12-10, 08:50 AM
#8
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That's kinda cool that they've even remotely got anything vert... Makes live a little more interesting, as far as an additional place to hunt.
Cellophane and plastic:
Open the door and put a bit of cellophane over the edge of the window, for it's entire length. Shut the door and make sure it's covering enough area along the seam where the top meets (don't forget that the top has joint-points, so make sure not to goop up where the top hinges).
Once satisfied, close the door and go around to, and get in, the other side of the car. (Since it's the inside that we're obviously concerned with, you can't apply RTV from the OUTSIDE, can you?)
Break out the Black RTV. *DO NOT GO APE-****, HERE!* You're not trying to seal a submarine, here.
While it's going to be a hemorrhoid, apply a THIN BEAD of RTV along the affected area and smoosh it up in to the corner, where the top and the window meet.
Repeat all the way around the window being mindful of cellophane coverage and the hing-points of the top.
Doing this on a retardedly blistering day is the best, since you're going to want this crap to dry fairly quickly, (And since you're in Cali, I don't think that'll be a problem). Leave the top down and the opposite side open, so the humidity can escape (NTM the fumes.
Speaking of fumes, you COULD use black Tub and Tile sealer (for sealing shower grout sealer). It may not throw the same party for your brain-cells, but it works just as well.
After the first side sets and is done, repeat to the other side and then all you have to do is remove the plastic wrap from the window. Since it's more adhered to the top, everything will be 10-26.
Don't worry if you dribble a bit. This isn't Epoxy we're dealing with. while CLOTH won't be happy about it, too much, it will wipe right up, fairly easily...
Mostly.
Cellophane and plastic:
Open the door and put a bit of cellophane over the edge of the window, for it's entire length. Shut the door and make sure it's covering enough area along the seam where the top meets (don't forget that the top has joint-points, so make sure not to goop up where the top hinges).
Once satisfied, close the door and go around to, and get in, the other side of the car. (Since it's the inside that we're obviously concerned with, you can't apply RTV from the OUTSIDE, can you?)
Break out the Black RTV. *DO NOT GO APE-****, HERE!* You're not trying to seal a submarine, here.
While it's going to be a hemorrhoid, apply a THIN BEAD of RTV along the affected area and smoosh it up in to the corner, where the top and the window meet.
Repeat all the way around the window being mindful of cellophane coverage and the hing-points of the top.
Doing this on a retardedly blistering day is the best, since you're going to want this crap to dry fairly quickly, (And since you're in Cali, I don't think that'll be a problem). Leave the top down and the opposite side open, so the humidity can escape (NTM the fumes.
Speaking of fumes, you COULD use black Tub and Tile sealer (for sealing shower grout sealer). It may not throw the same party for your brain-cells, but it works just as well.
After the first side sets and is done, repeat to the other side and then all you have to do is remove the plastic wrap from the window. Since it's more adhered to the top, everything will be 10-26.
Don't worry if you dribble a bit. This isn't Epoxy we're dealing with. while CLOTH won't be happy about it, too much, it will wipe right up, fairly easily...
Mostly.
10-12-10, 09:09 AM
#9
That's kinda cool that they've even remotely got anything vert... Makes live a little more interesting, as far as an additional place to hunt.
Cellophane and plastic:
Open the door and put a bit of cellophane over the edge of the window, for it's entire length. Shut the door and make sure it's covering enough area along the seam where the top meets (don't forget that the top has joint-points, so make sure not to goop up where the top hinges).
Once satisfied, close the door and go around to, and get in, the other side of the car. (Since it's the inside that we're obviously concerned with, you can't apply RTV from the OUTSIDE, can you?)
Break out the Black RTV. *DO NOT GO APE-****, HERE!* You're not trying to seal a submarine, here.
While it's going to be a hemorrhoid, apply a THIN BEAD of RTV along the affected area and smoosh it up in to the corner, where the top and the window meet.
Repeat all the way around the window being mindful of cellophane coverage and the hing-points of the top.
Doing this on a retardedly blistering day is the best, since you're going to want this crap to dry fairly quickly, (And since you're in Cali, I don't think that'll be a problem). Leave the top down and the opposite side open, so the humidity can escape (NTM the fumes.
Speaking of fumes, you COULD use black Tub and Tile sealer (for sealing shower grout sealer). It may not throw the same party for your brain-cells, but it works just as well.
After the first side sets and is done, repeat to the other side and then all you have to do is remove the plastic wrap from the window. Since it's more adhered to the top, everything will be 10-26.
Don't worry if you dribble a bit. This isn't Epoxy we're dealing with. while CLOTH won't be happy about it, too much, it will wipe right up, fairly easily...
Mostly.
Cellophane and plastic:
Open the door and put a bit of cellophane over the edge of the window, for it's entire length. Shut the door and make sure it's covering enough area along the seam where the top meets (don't forget that the top has joint-points, so make sure not to goop up where the top hinges).
Once satisfied, close the door and go around to, and get in, the other side of the car. (Since it's the inside that we're obviously concerned with, you can't apply RTV from the OUTSIDE, can you?)
Break out the Black RTV. *DO NOT GO APE-****, HERE!* You're not trying to seal a submarine, here.
While it's going to be a hemorrhoid, apply a THIN BEAD of RTV along the affected area and smoosh it up in to the corner, where the top and the window meet.
Repeat all the way around the window being mindful of cellophane coverage and the hing-points of the top.
Doing this on a retardedly blistering day is the best, since you're going to want this crap to dry fairly quickly, (And since you're in Cali, I don't think that'll be a problem). Leave the top down and the opposite side open, so the humidity can escape (NTM the fumes.
Speaking of fumes, you COULD use black Tub and Tile sealer (for sealing shower grout sealer). It may not throw the same party for your brain-cells, but it works just as well.
After the first side sets and is done, repeat to the other side and then all you have to do is remove the plastic wrap from the window. Since it's more adhered to the top, everything will be 10-26.
Don't worry if you dribble a bit. This isn't Epoxy we're dealing with. while CLOTH won't be happy about it, too much, it will wipe right up, fairly easily...
Mostly.
10-12-10, 09:33 AM
#10
I found that if you closed the door, then rolled the window up it would seal better then rolling the window up and opening the door to get out- was a pain but if the car is to sit for a while it might help.
There is also some adjustment on the window itself.
Regardless your car will never seal up 100%, it will always leak a little bit of water, pull the drain plugs under the carpet to let standing water out
There is also some adjustment on the window itself.
Regardless your car will never seal up 100%, it will always leak a little bit of water, pull the drain plugs under the carpet to let standing water out
10-12-10, 10:45 AM
#11
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Good point about the window up, while door is closed. I wasn't meaning to do it from the affected side of the car, though.
I meant do the actual work from the other side of the car. That way, if it's closed, it's not impossible to get to (the door, window and top are closed. How would you be able to do it from the aside you're fixing?
+1 on the drain-plugs. I'm fortunate that I don't have any leaks around any of the seals, just from a couple of cuts, in the top, proper... That and the SOON-to-be-leaking seal around the back glass, which is also easily rectified with RTV.
My old track-car was an '86 GXL and both the front and back windows were re-sealed (from both inside and out) with RTV. If done right, it'll save your ***.
I meant do the actual work from the other side of the car. That way, if it's closed, it's not impossible to get to (the door, window and top are closed. How would you be able to do it from the aside you're fixing?
+1 on the drain-plugs. I'm fortunate that I don't have any leaks around any of the seals, just from a couple of cuts, in the top, proper... That and the SOON-to-be-leaking seal around the back glass, which is also easily rectified with RTV.
My old track-car was an '86 GXL and both the front and back windows were re-sealed (from both inside and out) with RTV. If done right, it'll save your ***.
10-12-10, 11:01 AM
#12
on my car the drivers side would not seal as good as the passenger side, so I would get out with the window down a little, then go over to the passenger side and roll the window up.
If you are making your own seals its probably better to do one side at a time using the same procedure.
I got the original paperwork with the car and everytime it went in for service it said to check for leaking top, they leaked when new.
If you are making your own seals its probably better to do one side at a time using the same procedure.
I got the original paperwork with the car and everytime it went in for service it said to check for leaking top, they leaked when new.
10-12-10, 01:18 PM
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on my car the drivers side would not seal as good as the passenger side, so I would get out with the window down a little, then go over to the passenger side and roll the window up.
If you are making your own seals its probably better to do one side at a time using the same procedure.
I got the original paperwork with the car and everytime it went in for service it said to check for leaking top, they leaked when new.
If you are making your own seals its probably better to do one side at a time using the same procedure.
I got the original paperwork with the car and everytime it went in for service it said to check for leaking top, they leaked when new.
I've heard the second bit a few times. Not sure why that happened, but I guess even Mazda understood that it was a problem... Just not a large enough one to warrant a recall/ TSB.
I guess you COULD use 3M. It's just a matter of it sticking and staying on the top.
10-13-10, 12:24 AM
#17
We all live in a yellow RX-7?!!?!
i've had 3 verts the first one leaked in medium rain (seattle rain) Heavy raind and I got a wet crotch. The second one never leaked. Both had new tops and new targa top seals when i bought them. Didn't seem to matter. I think there is like 4 things you can do to help it. Maybe more. Off the top of my head. you can adjust how far the top goes with the bolts that stop the travel of the top. You can adjust the "hooks" that latch the top down. I think you can to the targa "hinge"to make it tighter or looser. And of course adjust the window.
Unfortunatly the 3rd one hasn't been tested in the rain yet. The engine blew shortly after I got it and i don't think I ever drove it in the rain for the few weeks I had it. After I've had it back a while I'm going to pull the top off of my old one, it doesn't have any rips and never leaked. and put it on this car. I also have new seals that have been in storage for about 3 years.
good luckl
i've had 3 verts the first one leaked in medium rain (seattle rain) Heavy raind and I got a wet crotch. The second one never leaked. Both had new tops and new targa top seals when i bought them. Didn't seem to matter. I think there is like 4 things you can do to help it. Maybe more. Off the top of my head. you can adjust how far the top goes with the bolts that stop the travel of the top. You can adjust the "hooks" that latch the top down. I think you can to the targa "hinge"to make it tighter or looser. And of course adjust the window.
Unfortunatly the 3rd one hasn't been tested in the rain yet. The engine blew shortly after I got it and i don't think I ever drove it in the rain for the few weeks I had it. After I've had it back a while I'm going to pull the top off of my old one, it doesn't have any rips and never leaked. and put it on this car. I also have new seals that have been in storage for about 3 years.
good luckl
10-13-10, 12:51 AM
#18
Hello, so the hard copy of the Black Dragon catalog has more items than their website does? I would like to get some new weatherstripping for my vert as well and I haven't been able to find new ones. It sucks getting wet while you're trying to drive, keeping your eyes on the road, and trying to get passed the foggy windows.
I don't think that Black Dragon has had the seals for the convertible for very long....but I'm looking at the hard copy of the 2010 Winter Edition RX.53, page 10, they're there......
Regardless, we do appreciate the good DIY info because the seals can be pricey depending on which one you need - $200 for each of the door seals.
Regardless, we do appreciate the good DIY info because the seals can be pricey depending on which one you need - $200 for each of the door seals.
10-16-10, 04:23 AM
#20
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Hello, so the hard copy of the Black Dragon catalog has more items than their website does? I would like to get some new weatherstripping for my vert as well and I haven't been able to find new ones. It sucks getting wet while you're trying to drive, keeping your eyes on the road, and trying to get passed the foggy windows.
Good luck!
10-16-10, 12:27 PM
#21
Are you talking about squeaks and such or about rattles? I have lots of squeaks with the top up too. It may must be the price of having an FC Vert. I compensate by leaving the top down as much as possible. You are right, it's quieter with the top down.
10-16-10, 12:41 PM
#22
squeeks and rattles- i put a dab of Vaseline on the pivot points to quiet it down, I use that instead of a grease incase a passenger were to touch their head to it- helps alot
I also have developed a squeeky shock mount, little annoying considering they are all new
I also have developed a squeeky shock mount, little annoying considering they are all new
10-16-10, 01:01 PM
#23
However, the leaks are another story....
First lesson learned of having a vert: Never go through the automatic car wash unless you want to get washed along with your car (even with the top up).
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