HHTurboVert

What's up fellow rotary fanatics,
I have a few concerns about my newly converted turbo vert that I am hoping some of you can help me resolve. Here are my questions.


1. I have two low imp.* injectors to run with my Rtek 1.7. Since I currently have high imp. injectors I will need to use some sort of inline resistor to increase the load at the ECU from 2-3 ohms to 13ohms for the two 2ndary's. I have already purchased two 10watt/10ohm ceramic resistors from radio shack, but I also have the stock resistor pack and a set of four low imp. 550cc's(unknown condition). What is the best way to make this whole setup work properly?

a. Should I use the resistors from radio shack for the two low imp. 2ndary injectors and keep my high imp. primary injectors. If this is the way to do it, then where would be the best place to wire in the resistors so that they won't get damaged or damage anything else(by heating up).

b. Can I utilize the stock resisitor pack but only hook it up to the two 2ndary injectors that are low impedence. If I do it this way, how would I connect the harness to the resistor pack so as only to run the two 2ndary injectors?

c. Install the low imp. 2ndary injectors in addition to swapping my high imp primary's for two low imp. 550's and use the stock resistor pack to run all 4 injectors. I would also appreciate a description or link for the wiring if this is the ideal method.


2. My second concern is whether or not I could use an AFPR* to make my car run better with an after market fuel pump? Ever since I swapped my vert fuel pump for a walbro 255 lph, my car has constantly run rich at all rpm and boost levels up to 12 psi(according to my A/F ratio meter, my burning eyes and the fire ***** my car spits out between shifts).

a. Is my car running rich due to increased fuel pressure genterated by the walbro, or some other factor associated with the pump?I figure that the best way to fix this would be a piggyback computer like an AFC, but I don't want to spend the money on that since I already have an R-tek 1.7 and will not be pushing my car past 14 psi.

b. Will an AFPR allow me to lean out the fuel mixture by turning the fuel pressure back to stock (37psi)? One of my concerns in doing this is that I have heard that with the stock fuel system, the fuel pressure changes as the load is increased on the engine( true?). I am not sure whether an AFPR will allow this to occur.

c. Will an AFPR keep the fuel pressure completely constant in all conditions? If so, will this adversely affect engine performance? ie. leaning out at higher boost levels when the stock FPR would have raised the fuel pressure above 37psi etc...

3. If an AFPR would help my situation, then which one should I get? Please consider price, performance and availibility in your suggestions.

Thank you all for taking the time to read through my post. Any suggestions and/or opinions are greatly appreciated.

HHTurboVert
*
HH=Honda Hunting =p
AFPR= Adustable Fuel Pressure Regulator
Imp.= Impedence

gerbraldy

Welcome to the club, I like my flames, don't you?

TII: Judgement Day

My flames make my rx-7 worthwhile

Dumbass ricers say "omg, you got NOS???"
Me: "What the ****!?!?"

90WhiteVrt

I want my ver to shoot flames

RX-Heven

iTrader: (1)

4- Holy quadruple posting ***** I am...sorry

To answer some of your ?'s

1. Not my area of expertise
2. It could and most likely raise the static pressure. An afpr would correct this. The prssure does not stay the same. It raises and lowers with the load plcaed on the engine. Say if you run 37 psi at the fpr at idle and you boost 10 lbs., the fpr will also raise fuel pressure by 10 lbs. to 47 psi. Works the other way under vacuum too.
3. There are several affodrdable afpr through www.summitracing.com
You don't need anything fancy.

btw, my turbo vert shoots flames too

hondahater

iTrader: (2)

^^^ of course his is slightly more modified anyways as far as injectors hopefully your using the 720cc injectors for the secondary location like the rtek1.7 is designed for. If that is what you are using then yes you will need resistors for the secondaries. Now I used them without the resistors for about 1,000 miles and nothing happend however alot of people say that after a while of driving it will spontaneously cause the ecu to fry, I haven no idea cause it didn't happen to me but if everyone else says it will then I will take their advice. Now all that being said the rtek was designed for your specific aplication and you should run just fine with what you have, yes it will be somewhat rich but that is fine because you don't want to detonate. If you do want to further tune your car you can get an safc and a wideband and tune that way or just bring it to the dyno and have them tune your safc. I would not use a narrow band o2 sensor alone to tune, infact I wouldn't use one at all but thats because i'm retarded however there are some really good guys that can tune via narrow band and egt gauge but of course they are very advanced. HOpe this helps.

HHTurboVert

I know I can use an AFC to correct the problem, but as I stated in the original post, I would like to avoid spending $200+ for an AFC when I don't really need one. The R-tek is all I need to get the power I'm looking for at this time. I also know that the R-tek was designed specifically for my car. However, it was not designed to run at a higher than stock fuel pressure, which is what I suspect is happening with my car because of the Walbro pump. While shooting flames isn't all bad, burning eyes, 10mpg, backfiring between every gear, and not getting optimal power are. I am going to be driving this car around quite a bit and want to get somewhat decent gas mileage.

trainwreck517

iTrader: (1)

HHTurboVert: maybe I could lend a helping hand, and I love to see your set up.. i'm in torrance.. PM me if your intrested.

hondahater

iTrader: (2)

you should wire in the resistors at the ecu rather than the engine bay. Also the safc I not II is going for 150 and 160 shipped now a days and I believe fpr are somewhere in the neigborhood of 100 bucks an up, I would save that little bit of money and just get an safc. Now there are plenty of people that use fpr and they might chime in and say something about it however I've never used one so I can't say anything. Or you could just wait for the rtek 2.0 to come out and it will have a built in fuel controller as well as data logging capabilities. I've had an upgraded pump (rx7.com) for a long time and I only backfire every once in a while at high rpm's when shifting, of course this is due to the safc. Remember though if you do get a fpr you are going to want a rrfpr. Good luck.

Rx71892

Aftermarket exhaust should do the trick. It did for me. I miss scaring the **** out of people driving behind me.

Crazyt

When I did my swap, the car did not originally have the fuel pump resistor relay deal. I backfitted this into my swap and great improvements. Idles smoother and cruising is better, as well as my MPG went from 15 mpg highway to 18.5 mpg city/highway. I have a similar setup, with 720 secondaries, walbro, and rtek 1.7

I performed the fuel pump rewire that is written up in a bunch of places and included the resistor relay that I bought off a forum member into it.

HHTurboVert

Hondahater, Thanks for suggesting I install the resistors at the ecu, I don't know why I didn't think of that. I would still like to use the stock resistor if possible though since they have a nice metal covering to protect them. Do you know if this is possible?
Getting back to the FPR vs. AFC issue, I have been planning on waiting for the R-tek 2.0, which is another reason that I don't want to buy an AFC. Once the 2.0 come out the AFC will be useless.
Finally, in your post you recomended that I get an RRFPR, what does RR stand for?

Rx71892, I do have an after market exhaust. Dual 3" to be exact. Might be overkill, but I hate the empty spot for the muffler on the other side of the rear bumper when people change to single exhausts.

Crazyt, great suggestion. However, I have already installed the FP resistor and rewired the FP with a relay for +12V. These were the first things I tried to make it run leaner.

Thanks for the input guys, keep it coming.

RENESIS TII

the fuel pump alone can not change the fuel pressure, this is the job for the FPR.
for the resistors, just wire it right before the injector, on the 12v wire.

the walbro has nothing to do with you boosting 12psi

in conclusion: you do not need a adjustable FPR, and you need a new shift boot (main reason for the exhaust in the cab), and the r-tek is reason for the flames

if you need help, pm me i'm right next to carson

HHTurboVert

If the FP doesn't change the fuel pressure, why did my car run fine before I put the FP in but rich after it was installed. I think that the Walbro pump might be too much for the stock FPR, and that even when the stock FPR is fully open, the resistance through the FPR is still to high to keep the fuel pressure from rising above 37psi @idle. I have already purchased a fuel pressure gauge and an AFPR, so I'll try to get a pressure reading off the system with the walbro and the stock FPR so we'll know for sure.

What do you guys think about replaceing the stock FPR with a bajo bolt when I install the AFPR? Is this the way it is usually done?

I know that the walbro has nothing to do with my car boosting to 12 psi, but it does have something to do with my car NOT detonating at that boost level.

I do not need a new shift boot, but I do need to plug a bunch of holes in my fire wall that are letting noise and engine gases into the passenger cabin.

Also, my R-tek is not even installed yet since I haven't wired up the injectors, so the flames are definately not from the R-tek. The flames started at the same time as the backfiring and burning eyes, which was when I installed the walbro.

hondahater

iTrader: (2)

here is the description of the pump I got at rx7.com

"The stock fuel pump was designed to handle the fuel requirements at near stock levels. Once you’ve upgraded the car to a point where more fuel is required, you’ll need to address this weak link in the system. We use a special, high flow fuel pump, made by OE manufacturer Denso in Japan, which exactly replaces the stock fuel pump. This dual stage unit takes less than an hour to install, doesn’t make any more noise, is extremely reliable, requires no cutting, welding, new lines, or anything else. It’s also the highest flowing unit we’ve tested that doesnít make the car run rich at idle, unlike other ‘bolt ins’. "

I don't know if you are experiancing more fuel pressure or just more fuel flow through the injectors. More than likely the pressure is not increasing it's the fuel pump that is overwhelming the injectors, I may be wrong but thats what it sounds like to me and if this is the case no fpr is going to help. The rr in RRFPR stands for rising rate witch means when you hit boost for every lb of boost the rrfpr will rise the fuel pressure. The way our stock fpr works is we get to a normal set fuel pressure until we hit boost, once boost cuts on then the fuel pressure rises to whatever level of boost we run. If you don't have a rrfpr then you may have a problem, of course like I said I'm not expert in fpr's but from what I've read on the forum a rrfpr is what you need. You may want to see if the rtek clears anything up as far as running rich before you do anything. If it is still rich aftwards then worry about it. I know lots of people that wire in the resistors from radio shack (2 or 3 bucks) at the ecu and they have had no problems at all so you may just want to do this as it is really simple to do and a proven way to make the injectors work. Good luck

HHTurboVert

[QUOTE=I don't know if you are experiancing more fuel pressure or just more fuel flow through the injectors. More than likely the pressure is not increasing it's the fuel pump that is overwhelming the injectors.[/QUOTE]

This doesn't make sense to me. Why would more fuel flow through the injectors if the pressure wasn't higher? To my understanding, only three things would increase the amount of fuel being injected.
1. lengthening the duration of the injector pulse.
2. Increasing the rate the injector pulses at.
3. Increasing the fuel pressure.

Since 1 and 2 wouldn't change due to the fuel pump, I'm think it must be increased fuel pressure.

RENESIS TII

buy a e-manage or an safc, and be done with it

HHTurboVert

I have tried a few things and would like some more feedback from you guys. After considering what was said here, I decided to go ahead and purchase an RRAFPR. However, it did not help at all. In fact it only made my run richer! After installing the RRFPR, I tried to adjust the fuel pressure back down to the stock 37psi. Unfortunately, the lowest it would allow me to turn down the fuel pressure was to 45psi! What's going on?
In an attempt to find the problem, I decided to leave the RRFPR installed and swap my Walbro out for the stock convertible Fuel pump. Installing the stock fuel pump allowed me to adjust the Fuel pressure down to 37 psi which made the car run much better. With that in mind, I came up with a few ideas about what was preventing me from lowering the Fuel pressure below 45 psi with the RRFPR. Let me know what you guys think the problems is.
Here is was I came up with:
1. My Walbro pump is over powering the RRFPR.( seems unlikely)
2. My fuel return line at the fire-wall is so small that the walbro generates higher than stock fuel pressures just trying to flow such a high volume of fuel through such a small return line. ( this seems like the most likely cause to me)
Please let me know what you think is the cause of this problem.