MadScience_7

I have an 88 N/A with some significant mods; S5 rotating assembly, TII rotor housings, TII center plate, moderate streetport, ported TB, headers, cat-back, cold air intake. After my recent rebuild I added the headers and a lightweight flywheel. I'm still breaking the engine in and having flooding issues as usual, but I can also tell that when the aux ports open the engine stutters some, and it seems like the engine just isn't quite happy. I'm working on getting a wideband O2 sensor installed so that I can get some idea of what's going on inside. If it does turn out that the mixture is all over the place as a result of the mods, would a simple piggyback controller offer me enough tuning ability to get it straightened out? The SAFC seems to be the controller of choice. Keep in mind that this is for a DD N/A car. I'm more concerned about her being happy than getting every last drop of power.

Thanks
Andy

SoloII///M

iTrader: (13)

Don't understand why you're flooding - I just did a rebuild and had no problems whatsoever with flooding.

Look into the Rtek. I have one in my car and so far I've been very pleased with its ease of install, tuning, etc.

rotarygod

iTrader: (1)

Even with your list of mods, as long as you still have the stock fuel injectors running on the stock fuel system, I don't see why you are having any issues. Sure a little retuning is necessary to get all the power out of it but it shouldn't flood and should still run fine.

Vortes

Did you reuse apex seals?

Jimmy2222

iTrader: (3)

Check your compression, if it's around 60-75 you will have hot start issues. A good way to build compression is to break it in hard. I also heard that if you rev the car to about 3k and turn it off it can eliminate the hot start/flooding issue on your next start. I haven't tried this and I read it in a thread the other day from one person. It's worth a shot.

MadScience_7

I had the same hot start problem after my last rebuild, but it went away pretty quick. I'm doing about the same break in as the last one. I used RA seals this time instead of the Atkins though. Maybe they just take longer to break in. I got in the habit of revving it before shutting it off early on before I got the injectors cleaned and have always done that (which I'm sure my neighbors just love...) The main issue with the tuning is a noticeable stutter when the aux ports open and occasional stuttering at WOT up around 5k. I haven't run it much up above that yet. I'm almost positive the aux port problem is tuning because when I ported the engine during the first rebuild, I opened up the aux ports a lot. The stutter was barely there before, but adding the headers this time probably pushed it over the edge.

I will look into the Rtek. Thanks.

Andy

rotarygod

iTrader: (1)

My opinion is that if you can't afford the $1600 Ianetti ceramic seals, you should ONLY use Mazda apex seals. I have yet to see proof that any other option is worth a damn longterm. I personally won't use any others.

89RedsunGTUs

iTrader: (1)

I just got done rebuilding my S5 N/A with an Atkins Rebuild Kit, and i have no issues flooding. starts up quick too. I'd check ur compression. (mines even Large street Ported)

I'd Highly Reccommend an Rtek 2.0 Ecu, i've got mine and its Great! allows tuning of VDI, 6PI, L/T Timing, Fuel Curves. Very Simple as well.