Tune Up
11-25-04, 10:03 PM
#1
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Tune Up
Hi all - new member to the place.. I've already got lots of great info just browsing!
Bought a 91 RX non turbo.... 100,000 miles, seems to run strong. I plan to do a tune up on it this weekend. I am a little concerned that it is getting very poor mileage. No other syptoms of a bad engine though - smoke etc..
My question: Is there anything Im missing for a basic tuneup that would help?
-replace o2 sensor
-new fuel filter
-new spark plug leads
-new spark plugs (didnt realize rx's had specialized plugs)*could anyone explain why?
-new spark plug leads
-air filter ***Anyone know a good link to a recleanable KNN etc Kit that I can install?
-Oil filter & new oil.
Thanks for any responses!
Bought a 91 RX non turbo.... 100,000 miles, seems to run strong. I plan to do a tune up on it this weekend. I am a little concerned that it is getting very poor mileage. No other syptoms of a bad engine though - smoke etc..
My question: Is there anything Im missing for a basic tuneup that would help?
-replace o2 sensor
-new fuel filter
-new spark plug leads
-new spark plugs (didnt realize rx's had specialized plugs)*could anyone explain why?
-new spark plug leads
-air filter ***Anyone know a good link to a recleanable KNN etc Kit that I can install?
-Oil filter & new oil.
Thanks for any responses!
11-25-04, 10:14 PM
#2
Hey and welcome.
What kinda mileage are you getting?
And if you're talking about the drop in K&N, http://www.nopionline.com/ then to Mazda, to RX-7 and then your year, then going to I beleive somewhere that will show up as air filters. They have them there, its where my friend got his (I personally just order it from Napa for about $60 bucks). Ebay can work too.
What kinda mileage are you getting?
And if you're talking about the drop in K&N, http://www.nopionline.com/ then to Mazda, to RX-7 and then your year, then going to I beleive somewhere that will show up as air filters. They have them there, its where my friend got his (I personally just order it from Napa for about $60 bucks). Ebay can work too.
11-26-04, 03:08 AM
#3
Lives on the Forum
11-26-04, 08:41 AM
#5
Rotary Freak
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Welcome fellow rotarian, If you love to work on cars you have made a wise decision and it looks like you know your way around cars since your tune up plan is pretty much right on target.
Use NGK platinum plugs and some quality spark plug wires, don't skimp on these since the spark will insure maximum burn in the engine, good gas mileage, and a cleaner emissions out the exhaust. You'll need 4 plugs, two leading plugs to start the combustion in the chamber and two trailing to complete the burn.
Since the rotary engine does inject some oil into the engine to lubricate the rotors your oil maintenance is even more critical to a well running engine than in those things that use pistons and have all those other moving parts. Use a top quality oil filter, Mazda OEM or K&N 1004, use Castrol GTX 20W-50 oil, and change it every 3K miles. Synthetic oils are OK but if your are changing your oil every 3K miles, or sooner, as you should then syn oils are an unnecessary expense.
Use NGK platinum plugs and some quality spark plug wires, don't skimp on these since the spark will insure maximum burn in the engine, good gas mileage, and a cleaner emissions out the exhaust. You'll need 4 plugs, two leading plugs to start the combustion in the chamber and two trailing to complete the burn.
Since the rotary engine does inject some oil into the engine to lubricate the rotors your oil maintenance is even more critical to a well running engine than in those things that use pistons and have all those other moving parts. Use a top quality oil filter, Mazda OEM or K&N 1004, use Castrol GTX 20W-50 oil, and change it every 3K miles. Synthetic oils are OK but if your are changing your oil every 3K miles, or sooner, as you should then syn oils are an unnecessary expense.
Last edited by GTUser; 11-26-04 at 08:47 AM.
11-26-04, 10:11 AM
#6
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Regarding why the rotary uses special plugs, it's because the tip of the plug cannot stick into the rotor chamber, because the rotor's apex seal "wipes" the surface of the chamber and would be broken off by a "regular" spark plug's electrode. In a nutshell, the plug can't screw into the chamber beyond its interior wall. If you look at a drawing of how the rotor goes around inside the chamber, you'll understan it much better than my poor explanation...
11-26-04, 12:21 PM
#7
i am legendary
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From another thread.
Check for leaks EVERYWHERE air/fluid/fuel/exhaust
Check or replace:
Engine Oil and Filter
Tranny Fluid
Differential Fluid
Radiator Flush
Radiator Hoses 5/8th and 5/16th
Radiator caps
Thermostat
Brake Fluid
Clutch Fluid
Power Steering Fluid
Spark Plugs
Spark Plug Wires
Coils
Timing
Throttle Position Sensor
Idle Speed
Idle Mixture
Battery Terminals Tight (not too tight)
Air Filter
Vacuum Hoses 3.5mm/6mm/10mm
Fuel Filter - In Tank and High Pressure
Fuel Lines 5/16th High Pressure
Pulsation Damper
Injectors Cleaned
Belts
Compression Test
Check Fuel Pump Voltage
Tranny Bushings/Seals
Brake Pads
Brake Line Hoses and Connections
Brake Caliper Operation
Wheel Bearings
Tie Rod Boots/Ball Joint Boots
Axle Boots
Suspension Bushings Control Arms/Sway Bars
Struts/Springs
Torque Lug Nuts
Tire Pressure
Tire Wear
Windshield Wipers
Headlights/Turn Signals/Brake Lights etc
General check of wires in engine bay for damage or corrosion
General check for loose bolts/nuts/parts
Get an Alignment
Do Grounding:
Leading Coil 10 gauge
Trailing Coil 10
Pressure Sensor 10
ECU 10
Firewall to bell housing 4
Battery Negative to Body to Engine 4
Fuel Injection Harness Under UIM 10
Get some Smart Fuses
http://www.jcwhitney.com/webapp/wcs...10101&langId=-1
Check or replace:
Engine Oil and Filter
Tranny Fluid
Differential Fluid
Radiator Flush
Radiator Hoses 5/8th and 5/16th
Radiator caps
Thermostat
Brake Fluid
Clutch Fluid
Power Steering Fluid
Spark Plugs
Spark Plug Wires
Coils
Timing
Throttle Position Sensor
Idle Speed
Idle Mixture
Battery Terminals Tight (not too tight)
Air Filter
Vacuum Hoses 3.5mm/6mm/10mm
Fuel Filter - In Tank and High Pressure
Fuel Lines 5/16th High Pressure
Pulsation Damper
Injectors Cleaned
Belts
Compression Test
Check Fuel Pump Voltage
Tranny Bushings/Seals
Brake Pads
Brake Line Hoses and Connections
Brake Caliper Operation
Wheel Bearings
Tie Rod Boots/Ball Joint Boots
Axle Boots
Suspension Bushings Control Arms/Sway Bars
Struts/Springs
Torque Lug Nuts
Tire Pressure
Tire Wear
Windshield Wipers
Headlights/Turn Signals/Brake Lights etc
General check of wires in engine bay for damage or corrosion
General check for loose bolts/nuts/parts
Get an Alignment
Do Grounding:
Leading Coil 10 gauge
Trailing Coil 10
Pressure Sensor 10
ECU 10
Firewall to bell housing 4
Battery Negative to Body to Engine 4
Fuel Injection Harness Under UIM 10
Get some Smart Fuses
http://www.jcwhitney.com/webapp/wcs...10101&langId=-1
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11-26-04, 01:32 PM
#8
Bongolio
[QUOTE=dDuB]From another thread.[/QUOTEBest info yet! 
,one thing i had found out with my car is my vacuum lines were so brittle (im guesing from heat) that some shattered when i squezed them so keep an eye on them. have fun!
,one thing i had found out with my car is my vacuum lines were so brittle (im guesing from heat) that some shattered when i squezed them so keep an eye on them. have fun!
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demetlaw
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