Transmission problem... Shifter does not go into gear. After everything is installed
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Transmission problem... Shifter does not go into gear. After everything is installed
While my car was in storage for the winter, I had to change the clutch. I changed all the necessary parts when doing a clutch job (clutch disk, pressure plate, alignment tool, clutch bearing, pilot bearing, pilot bearing seal, tranny oil, bleed the clutch cylinder).
Now with everything installed and ready to go, the shifter does not shift into any gears. When the car is off, the shifter goes into every gear with no problems. When the car is on and idleing the shifter wont go into any gear what so ever. I've never had to deal with this before. What would or could cause this to happen ?
My setup is a rebuilt S5 tranny, Corksport short shifter, HKS clutch/pressure plate and flywheel kit.
Now with everything installed and ready to go, the shifter does not shift into any gears. When the car is off, the shifter goes into every gear with no problems. When the car is on and idleing the shifter wont go into any gear what so ever. I've never had to deal with this before. What would or could cause this to happen ?
My setup is a rebuilt S5 tranny, Corksport short shifter, HKS clutch/pressure plate and flywheel kit.
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You screwed your pilot bearing putting the transmission in.
That is my guess.
If the input shaft is "married"(damaged) to the Eccentric shaft the Trans input shaft will spin and not allow the trans to go in gear when it is spinning.
Turn the car off and the Input shaft is NOT spinning..Voila!..the trans goes into gear.
Unfortunately this means dropping the trans again to get at the Pilot bearing.
That is my guess.
If the input shaft is "married"(damaged) to the Eccentric shaft the Trans input shaft will spin and not allow the trans to go in gear when it is spinning.
Turn the car off and the Input shaft is NOT spinning..Voila!..the trans goes into gear.
Unfortunately this means dropping the trans again to get at the Pilot bearing.
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ive had this happen to me before when i changed one of the clutches in one of my cars before. it most likely means that your presure plate is broken/over torqued.
you can figure out if the pressure plate is broken or "stuck engaged" by putting the car into 1st gear and starting it, and if the car pulls itself forward while the clutch is down then the clutch is not disengaging and the presure plate needs to be replaced.
another way if you know how to shift w/o the clutch you can push the car in the street to get momentum and shift it into 1st. or you can lift the rear wheels off the ground and put it on jack stands w/ wheel chocks of coarse!! and start the car and keep the clutch in and keep constant light pressure into first gear and if the wheels start spinning = no pressure plate disengagement
you can figure out if the pressure plate is broken or "stuck engaged" by putting the car into 1st gear and starting it, and if the car pulls itself forward while the clutch is down then the clutch is not disengaging and the presure plate needs to be replaced.
another way if you know how to shift w/o the clutch you can push the car in the street to get momentum and shift it into 1st. or you can lift the rear wheels off the ground and put it on jack stands w/ wheel chocks of coarse!! and start the car and keep the clutch in and keep constant light pressure into first gear and if the wheels start spinning = no pressure plate disengagement
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Im sure the pressure plate is not broken. Because when I remove the plate under the bellhousing and I have a friend pushing down on the pedal, I see the clutches engage and disengage. Also overtorquing a pressure plate would cause it to stay engaged, I agree, but not cause it to break.
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I would jack the back of the car up chock the front wheels put jack stands under the frame and start the car while its in 1st gear and see if the rear wheels spin while the clutch is down. this is the easiest way I know to tell if the clutch is mechanically stuck engaged before you drop the trans to rule out the clutch pedal.
seeing the presure plate move in the inspection hole dosent rule out that the clutch could be half engaged from uneven torque.
seeing the presure plate move in the inspection hole dosent rule out that the clutch could be half engaged from uneven torque.
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i have looked around and can only find write ups on evos, supras, and imprezas for multi-disk clutch installs and from what i can see the torque specs are pretty close to stock, but i see sometimes depending on if its an exedy or hks the specs for the presureplate is around 5-8 ft lbs higher than stock but most of the people i see say that they use the stock pressure plate specs and use loctite on it. and it sucks that hks dosent have ANY info on how to install these
I have never seen how a multi disk clutch pressurplate looks off of the assembly. is it a pull or push type?
I have never seen how a multi disk clutch pressurplate looks off of the assembly. is it a pull or push type?
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Here's another thread i made on this... HKS GD twin plate clutch install ??? - RX7Club.com
It's push type
It's push type
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