Romanator

iTrader: (13)

I am in the process of changing the clutch discs and I dont remember which side the center hub goes on. Anyone on here with an HKS clutch or someone who's installed one before, please help me. I need to know which direction the short nose and long nose installs.

This clutch kit is going into my FC.

Center hub long nose side...

Center hub short nose side...


Mounted on flywheel, long nose side facing transmission...

Mounted on flywheel, short nose facing transmission...


Please help me out guys, the sooner I get an answer, the sooner I can install it. Thanks in advance.

Romanator

iTrader: (13)

still need help

Romanator

iTrader: (13)

Did i post this question in the wrong section of the forum to get my answer ?

RXSpeed16

iTrader: (41)

Very few FC's have a $1600 clutch, so most people won't know. I'd PM Banzai racing or another of the established rotary specific shops. Look for someone that specializes in FD's since they are actually willing to spend money.

misterstyx69

iTrader: (142)

I'd post in the racing section.
In this section Guys can buy 2 cars for the price of that Clutch,Roman!!..lol.

joeylyrech

iTrader: (11)

On my giken triple plate setup you will now for sure if the hub if installed wrong when you are going 2 instal the clutch cover piece........if the clutch cover does not fit flush against the flywheel mounting surface after you torque the bolts is installed wrong........maybe hks is the same......

Romanator

iTrader: (13)

Does anyone know the torque specs for the pressure plate of this HKS kit ?

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

long nose usually faces the transmission on push type clutch assemblies. i have no experience with this particular clutch so it is just an assumption and you probably won't find many others with experience either. the OSG/exedy multiples are more common(and even then not very common at all, on a clutch assembly rated at nearly twice the torque level that the transmission can actually handle).

there is also usually paint marks on each disc and plate which should be aligned.

general rule of thumb for clutch bolt torque is 20-25ft/lbs. it doesn't need to be any more than that.

Romanator

iTrader: (13)

Thanks RotaryEvolution for the torque specs.

joeylyrech: Forgot to mention in a post above... The hub can only be installed one way. I discovered this when putting the clutch kit onto the flywheel, if the pressure plate cannot be seated properly before putting on nuts and washers, then the hub is on the wrong side.

Romanator

iTrader: (13)

OK GUYS I NEED EVERYONE'S HELP HERE!!!!!!
LETS START THIS OVER AGAIN....

I have 2x HKS GD MAX twin disc clutch setups. One kit with springs between the intermediate plates and one kit without springs between the intermediate plates. Which one is the right clutch setup for RX7 FC ???

The clutch kit without springs I bought off ebay many years ago, worked very well but always had a rattleing noise. The new clutch kit I bought from a local who had this setup on his FD. We can all agree even though this clutch kit is now DISCONTINUED from HKS the only difference between these clutch setups is the pressure plate cover. For FC it's a push type and for FD it's a pull type.

In the first pic here. The old kit i removed is on the right. The new kit im installing is on the left. The owner from whom I purchased it from said he resurfaced the flywheel and both intermediate plates with brand new clutch discs from rhdjapan.com.








Notice in pics. My old HKS clutch kit from ebay came like this with no springs between intermediate plates. One plate has holes for it but the other plate has none.




I made these 2 videos to show and you can compare the noise it makes...

I need to know if this clutch kit is the right one for my FC. Because in the last 2 months I've removed and reinstalled my transmission 3 times. Because my problem with this is when the car is idleing the shifter does not go into gear. I made a thread about this in the forum with answers like i fucked up the pilot bearing when reinstalling tranny and or over tightening pressure plate. The reality is one of the clutch discs is stuck engaged. Can someone explain to me why ??? And can someone who has or had an HKS twin disc clutch kit on their FC or FD confirm that they have springs in the intermediate plates or not ? And does anyone know the torque specs for the intermediate plates ?

Digi7ech

iTrader: (1)

I'm working on a FD with the HKS clutch right now and it has the springs in between that pack.
Sorry if huge pic.

TonyD89

iTrader: (10)

The discs won't move like in your second video when the splines are engaged on the transmission input shaft which in turn engaged in the pilot bushing when fully assembled.

I don't understand the point of the second video.

Romanator

iTrader: (13)

the point of the second video is that when I had my 1st hks clutch kit installed it made that rattling sound like in the first video. Now with the new clutch kit there's no more rattle but no clutch disengagement either

Digi7ech thanks for the pics

joeylyrech

iTrader: (11)

It should be installed on this order.
Flywheel
clutch disck
center hub long side facing tranny.
friction disk center piece with no holes for springs.
clutch disc
disc with springs.
pressure plate.
It should work like that.

Romanator

iTrader: (13)

That is the order i installed both clutch kits
Difference is the intermediate plates with springs are bolted together with 1 clutch disc in between them.

joeylyrech

iTrader: (11)

I had a similar issue before with my giken dual.The car will make noises while idleling and my clutch pedal will stick 2 the floor then i discovered that my issue was the throw out bearing.I got both of my multi clutch setup from japan,they came on jdms swaps with trans.The one day i was going crazy trying 2 figure out why i am having this issue on my car and i looked at the jdms trans that i had around(they ones that came with the multi clutches)and 2 my surprise the input shaft sleve where the bearing rides look way beefier than the one on my t2 and the throw out bearing was way bigger.I swapped both pieces on my trans and put everything back together and all the issues went away.Look do some searching on the hks units and who knows that may be your issue.Good luck.

Romanator

iTrader: (13)

HKS has discontinued this clutch kit and there was no beefier release bearing or input shaft sleeve. Also from the other forum members i see selling this hks clutch kit, they dont have it either.
Now their new clutches are the L.A clutch and theres no mention of a beefier release bearing nor input shaft sleeve

Romanator

iTrader: (13)

Just out of curiosity... Would it make a difference if i were to make a re-adjustement with the clutch pedal pushrod to master cylinder ?

Romanator

iTrader: (13)

anyone here with an fc have pics of their hks clutch kit ?
Besides the one that's for sale. I sent him a pm and he didn't reply.

Romanator

iTrader: (13)

Problem solved... The 3 bolts on the intermediate plates were to tight and the pedal's push rod was loose. The pushrod needed to be tightened and the intermediate plates i hand tightened them then 1/4 turn counter clockwise and everything works like a charm.

AaronJ

iTrader: (12)

The reason for the rattle was probably because you had a GD pro which meant it was not a sprung clutch. There would be nothing supporting the discs causing your typical twin disc chatter. The GD max is sprungversion designed for the street and a dose not rattle because the springs hold the discs on place