That's how I figured it out. Hooked up a multimeter. Will be doing that for all fuses from now on. I'm used to blown fuses being easy to identify visually I guess. Lesson learned lol

 

my dad's BMW was like that (from the factory), the main fuse is a piece of brass/copper, about 1/2" by 2" with two holes in it, and it had cracked, really hard to see! it caused an intermittent no start, or no run at all or something.

it was an 89 525i, which was a beautiful car, but the build quality was really subpar. it had window switches installed upside down, bad injectors, the bad fuse, and this is right from new, and took a while to get all fixed.

 

So hows the car running now?

 

Well. Timing is zeroed out and this is the result.


Still need to lower the idle, make a bracket for a stronger throttle return cable, and dial in fuel throughout the rpm range.

 

having 2 working injectors makes a bit of difference. hehe

 

Yes. Yes it does.

 

one of the features of the newer haltechs i like is that the fuel map is a table, its 1000000% easier than the bar graph nonsense. i think yours will do a table, and if so you should switch.

top tip, we all know that we don't want to go over 85% injector duty, and we all start with a basemap that is useless. so i just set all the high load cells to 85%. maybe the top 3 rows, and maybe after 5000rpm. if you did your homework right, it'll be super rich up top, which is safe

 

It does have the table option but I haven't tinkered with it yet. I probably will mess with it to see if that works easier. The current map is running off the one bar MAP sensor but I would much rather have it in TPS. I switched this map to TPS tuning and the car would fire and then die. After a careful glance, I noticed the injector times weren't automatically converted over to the same values. Maybe I will fiddle with it.

Thanks for the tip!

 

Yeah the old software called it the "text view" map.

Looks solid bro. Good ****.

 

i like the table, it shows the whole map on one screen, no having to jump from screen to screen.

 

should use both, the 3D graph is good for a general view but it doesn't give a good feel for depth and accuracy at each and every point.

 

New development: when the car is running, I'm leaking oil in and around the CAS. It's coming from underneath the CAS. The seal is still on it too. This can't be good.

 

Its coming from where the CAS hole, or the front cover?

 

CAS hole. Figured it out. For some reason, the nipple on my oil filler neck and center iron were capped and the engine wasn't breathing at all. Fixed

 

what did you call him? :P

 

The old man was looking over my shoulder reading through the whole broken fuse saga. From the start he said... start simple, check those fuses and wiring. 25 years as an aircraft tech would explain his troublshooting advice haha.

 

That's the only good way to check them. At work, I use a power probe 3 that has a multimeter built in. That way I can check voltage drop AND power at the same time. The best part about the power probe is you can power the circuit to make sure it works, or to see if it has a short (internal breaker in probe trips if short is found)

 

hindisght is 20/20, according to the symptoms i wouldn't even have guessed it was a fuse and i always start with the simple tests.

my guess is it wasn't actually the fuse to start with but became a part of the issue later on, but more likely a faulty injector plug causing erratic continuity. but as i always say, "what do i know".

 

Yeah. I never would of guessed that either. It makes sense though as the injectors are supplied nearly 12v through the signal wires according to Haltech with the key on The blown fuse caused ntermittent fuel delivery and explains why tuning wouldn't change how the car ran. Now the car is responding to tuning changes. Only problem now is my idle won't go below 1500 rpm

 

check the fuses!!!!

firstly get it running nicely around 1500, and then i'd make the map the same from 1500-0, and then adjust the throttle stop/idle speed screw. if that does nothing, then it is likely to be a vacuum leak. ITB's are a bit tricky, as they will suck up stuff from anywhere around where you're spraying brake/carb cleaner, the smoke method might be better.

 

The car is running very smooth up to 7k. I haven't taken it further yet as I'm tuning with no load. I'm 99% positive my high idle is due to the the throttle wheel needing adjustment. I'm going to tinker with it later today.

Car has been smoke tested and has no leaks.

Edit: Idle fixed. Throttle wheel needed to be schooched. Idles around 900 rpm to 1k totally fine with that. Did try tuning in Alpha-N but the car doesn't want to run in this mode.oh well. Worth a shot

 

Went out to check the timing again and it's off.... No matter how I adjusted it, the timing mark remained at 6 o'clock. If I schooched the cas, it would flutter to the top of the pulley and then back down. I'm starting to wonder if the timing is actually dead on, but the timing light is reading incorrectly.

 

I think something is screwy with your computer, or wiring.

did you make sure the timing lock isnt on?

 

Fixed. It was the timing light. I moved the pickup for the light into a different position and it's dead on the timing mark.

 

Good. Throw that ****** away. Probably the source of half of your confusion.