Your probably doing this, but make sure youre pressing apply every time you make an adjustment.

 

if we went backwards, which is sometimes better than overthinking things. you should be able to put the CAS in the factory spot, and set the haltech to 65/11 and have it be within a degree or two. since Mazda's stuff is all sloppy and adjustable, the margin of error is on that side.

secondly you should set the trigger thresholds to 2v, like in this thread https://www.rx7club.com/haltech-foru...tages-1089653/ it improves the signal to noise ratio.

 

SO I got the timing dead on at 55 and 5. Current reluctor gain is at 2, motronic filter is at 0

 

Yay! Ur CAS is probably stabbed incorrectly, but it should work fine.

 

False alarm. Timing is reading 180 degrees out no matter what I do it still starts and idles but the timing is way off

 

I think you should start over.

Restab CAS.

Load Base map.

65 and 11.

Do it.

 

Bueller....Bueller...

 

I did. Restabbed and set to 65 and 11. No dice. I swear my wiring had been verified 90 times. Should I try and change my cas wiring? I'm at a loss. It will idle but read on the opposite side of the pulley. Or should I flip the cas 180 degrees and try that.

 

Try this map. Its one of Claudios old Base Maps. I see the download links dont work anymore. THIS IS ONLY A BASEMAP.

 

something else fundamental has to be incorrect. if the idle isn't responding to advancing the timing then.... you may just need to bite the bullet and have a professional look it over.

a video of it at least idling may give some clues.

 

I have no idea what to do. The car won't fire anymore, just cranks and cranks. Bought a new battery, new plugs, it still won't fire. I don't really have anywhere to take the car. Goddamit.

Could I have flooded it?

 

i have a feeling your injector lag is all fuggered up which would explain a few things you have said in this thread, but why with all the maps i cannot say unless these are some special or defective injectors. maybe one of your injectors is not getting fuel and the other is creating an overly rich condition in order to run the engine, again, hard to guess without seeing the car or a video of something.

disable all fuel and try running it on starting fluid with an assistant and see if it is a bit more responsive.

you're fighting a problem that you need to find with a comb, as i said a really long time ago i dont think it is your timing that is the root issue, but it is a symptom.

what's your fuel pressure? try crimping the return line a little bit at a time? you may have a fuel volume issue, don't let the rich numbers fool you!

play with the CAS, don't worry about timing it for now, just need to focus on what the engine wants in order to run for now.

check the plugs for equal fuel wetness, indicating what i said earlier about one rotor being rich and the other dry. check your intake for restrictions, you know, like a rag in an intake port.
exhaust, see above for intake. is there any massive open ports on one side of the intake runners where the engine is drawing unmetered air?

does your map reading fluctuate as it should? does your RPM signal have any erratic spikes?

blah blah blah, you get the idea of what i have to deal with.

you gotta dig some more.

 

we know the CAS wires are correct, but are the outputs to the coils correct?

 

timing isn't rocket science, the coils are firing(or the timing light wouldn't be responsive) and unless the mark is bouncing around like a rabbit then i wouldn't suspect it to be an ignition issue at all.

the only possibility i would consider with the timing is if he is running direct fire, but somehow both rotors are still firing off the same trigger. disconnect both leading plugs and try again, and vice versa with the trailings.

 

Thanks for the suggestions.
-Fuel pressure when idling was 40 psi.
-Map sensor is fluctuating normally
-No erratic RPM spikes
-plugs are equal wetness
-Trailing plugs were quite a bit dirtier than leading
-Nothing stuck in any ports

I called Haltech earlier and found out that I may have corrupted all the maps I had by not resetting the ecu every time I load a map or change a setting. I didn't know this was required to save the changes made to the ECU.

I will try the starting fluid tonight. I just don't understand, it was running today. Only issue was figuring out the timing. Now I'm back to square one and NO maps will start the car.

 

Like j9 said, did you check the outputs of the coils?

 

never corrupted a map, but you are prompted to cycle the key once you load a map before attempting to start it. even so, i still feel like something is wrong and it isn't just a timing and fuel issue.

 

All the maps looked the same when I reloaded them. I've started cycling the key when loading maps. It seems like my car doesn't like the factory cas alignment. Every time I align it to that, it doesn't start.

Do you mean the voltage the coils are getting? I've visually tested for spark. I need to run and get a new battery for my multimeter. Based off the fact the car was idling, something in the maps has to be off correct?

 

well then its trying to tell you something. the engine should start the easiest in the correct position, not fight you about it.

try starting it on leading only coils, then trailing only.


i mean it's not a new ECU, but do you know for a fact the engine it came from ran properly?

 

Just unplug the coil or wires and leave all plugs in?

I was told it did. Whether that's true or not, I have no idea.

 

unplug the coil wiring to the ECU or ground the wires somewhere on the chassis. i forget if haltech will only fire leading during crank but eh, worth checking anyways.

 

If it turns out this is the ecu's fault, I'm the one to blame. I was going to go with the adaptronic but since the car may only see a few track days a year, I figured an older ecu would cut it.

 

e6x should work fine. plenty of people use them....

 

I'm not ashamed to admit that I could use a professionals help. I contacted a different shop but I'm not sure they will work on it if it's not running. That and my recent experience left a bad taste in my mouth for tuners in the area. I'm amazed that this area which has as a pretty large rotary scene has hardly any tuners.

 

Had a friend verify spark while I'm cranking. Trailing spark is excellent. Lead has a very weak spark. Swapped in another coil to test. So whats causing this?