nah, dont just take it to any old shop. these are pretty specific tests.

 

As an update, I disabled the injectors and timed it while cranking. The timing is spot on now although it does appear to show up on the bottom of the pulley every so often. I'm assuming this is due to my weak spark. That being said, the leading coil is getting one spark on the first crank and no sparks afterwords.

Trigger values in the ecu are currently 60 and 5. According to Haltech, 65 and 5 is supposed to be set for the FC on stock coils.

 

leave em disabled and try starter fluid

 

I will try this tmmrw but I'm a little lost as to how this would solve my weak/no spark issue.

 

you may be seeing the difference in the plugs themselves and the heat ranges. you can always swap the trailing plug wires to the lead plugs and disable the lead coils if you believe that is the issue.

 

You seem skeptical that spark may be the issue. Care to share your reasoning?

 

your timing light is picking up the arc, so you are getting ignition. why would i be skeptical? the spark may be weak but it wont explain the need to run extremely retarded ignition timing or prevent it from starting.

 

Cancel.

 

65 and 5 is for FD.

Somethings screwy with your timing bro. Theres no reason, with the CAS properly stabbed, you shouldnt be close to the mark at 65 and ~11.

But if the mark is lining up, regardless of CAS position, you should be good. Have you tried disabling the trailing coil and see if that changed anything?

What plugs are you using?

Stupid question, but its good to go back and check basic ****. have you verified injector wiring is correct? Have you verified spark wires are correct?

Are you 100% sure youre aligning to the correct timing mark? (to the -5 mark not the -20 mark)

 

Well. When it rains it pours, my e6x is no longer connecting to my laptop. Com port error every single damn time I try to connect. I've changed com ports and assigned to the proper port and nothing.

This is infuriating. It's like everything that worked, is gradually not working.

To answer the previous comments:

It does make sense that I have spark as the timing light is working. I'm using new stock plugs in the appropriate places. CAS is aligned to the proper yellow mark on the pulley. Injector wiring has been verified.

I'm wondering if I'm out of gas lol. The front of my car is in the air and my fuel level is pretty low. To add to this, I've never seen my fuel light come on. So, I put in 4 gallons today to see if that was part of the issue with it starting. Unfortunately, the last map saved had the injectors disabled and I can't connect to the ecu now.

As for the ecu settings, regardless of what they are, I need to get the damn thing to connect again.

 

since theyre disabled, starter fluid. im curious if it will run equally or better on an alternate fuel supply to verify fuel or rule it out.

 

Restart computer.

Check Fuses for ECU

 

Re-installed HalwinX and the drivers for my serial to USB cable. Finally got it to connect again. Loaded the map that had it running previously, CAS settings of 65 and 11, and disabled the injectors while my gf sprayed starter fluid in it. Fired up immediately. I enabled the injectors and it started by itself once but wouldn't idle and died. Subsequent cranking and the car wouldn't without hitting the throttle.

This makes me wonder if my fueling needs to be upped majorly on cranking due to the massive amount of airflow immediately entering the engine.

 

seems to point to a fuel issue.

 

The question is, is it too lean or rich on start up. I hear the fuel pump priming, fuel pressure gauge reads 40-45 ish when cranking, and the haltech is reading the injectors. Plus, the car ran previously. SO. I guess I need to revisit my maps and figure out what the hell to do to get the car running again.

 

if the plugs are wet with fuel and you need to deflood it to get it started again, too rich. if you can get it started with a shot of starting fluid, too lean.

 

Plugs aren't soaked so I'm guessing lean

 

sounds like by the symptoms, try bumping up the cranking fuel maps.

 

Will do. I figured with these large injectors in the primary position, I'd need a lower injection time instead of higher. Especially since my idle was low 10's for afr.

Edit: when increasing injector pulse width during cranking, I should be adjusting the main fuel map near the zero load range correct? Or should I be messing with the priming map at all?

 

i usually just tweak the 0rpm and idle maps near 0 vacuum.

 

Meh. Fiddled with the o rpm section of the fuel map that had the car running previously and it still won't start. Shoot some starter fluid in and it fires right up. I know the ecu is reading my changes because my injector times go up when these are adjusted.

I wish I wasn't tuning retarded. I'm going to disable the injectors again and have my gf time the car while I'm cranking to make sure that reads correct still.

 

So. I'm not sure, but something seems off. I restabbed the CAS in the factory position and checked the timing while cranking. My setting in the ecu to get it lined up ended up being 85 and 11? This is also with the CAS slid as far forward as possible. I tried changing tooth offsets and that didn't change anything. Only my trigger angle is actually making any changes to the timing.

No matter how many times I line this thing up, the settings within the halwin are never close to 65 and 11

 

you should really be focusing on one issue at a time, using the starting fluid to verify the car runs with the timing you can set it at, then figure out why it isn't getting fuel and worry about timing it when the engine starts reliably. jumping around from one thing to another isn't helping.

 

Will do. This whole experience has been confusing. Everything was working until I tried to make corrections. Then it all goes to crap.

I'm thinking the recent temperature drop has to be part of the issue. I can only assume the base map was more than likely not set up with 40 degrees in mind.

Doesn't the ignition timing have to be set in accordance with the fuel to properly to start the car? That's why I was focused on zeroing the timing properly while cranking. Also, is having the timing locked while cranking affecting it's ability to start?

 

first i drop the CAS the normal way, then i will use the CAS slot, then i will move onto advancing the CAS 1 tooth at a time and see what the engine likes. that is how i diagnose really odd starting issues with timing in mind.

some cars have had messed up pulleys, timing marks off.