The Red wire you added to the diagram should be the wire w/12 volts w/key to on. Since you claim it does not then you want to get to the cause of this. Either the Red/Green wire coming off of the fuse box is not getting voltage because the fuse itself is bad or the Yellow/Red wire is not properly powered by the main relay in your diagram.

 

Yeah, I'm going to pull the injector harness back through the firewall tonight and figure out which wire is messed up. I had no idea this was happening as I was told the wiring was not messed with. So much for that.

I'm concerned as to whether something may have been fried in the ecu as a result. I'm hoping not.

 

If the injector plug is unplugged from said injector then the issue related to the wire from the relay which should power the injector should be completely unrelated to the ECU. Now why the wire from the ECU has voltage w/the plug disconnected is a bit strange unless that's how that particular ECU rolls.

If the Y/R wire does not have voltage w/key to on check pins 85 and 86 of the relay used.

 

Will do. According to j9fd3s, the ecu supplies constant 12 v to the injectors when the key is in the on position. So the red wire mentioned in the diagram should be getting 12 v to the injector connector with the key on and the as RotaryEvolution mentioned, the injector signal wires should not receive 12 v.

I'm assuming the wiring is messed up between the relay, ecu fuse box, and the injector harness.

I'll look at it tonight and fix everything. I haven't completely tucked away everything so I have easy access to all this.

 

i try to make all my harnii at least as easy to install and remove as the factory one, actually ideally i make the factory harness with a different ecu plug.

if you unplug the injector with the key on, engine off, one wire in the clip should have 12v, the other wire nothing. the nothing wire should go to the ecu, as whatever injector #1/position it is physically on the car.

you should also eat 4 servings of fruit and vegetables, per day

 

Mom?

 

you should probably call her too

 

Sound advice all around. Just grabbed an orange and called me mum. She didn't seem very focused on my wiring though.. kept asking if I was coming home for the holidays.

 

As an update, I did some digging and found the fuse for the red and green wire to be blown. Replaced it and now I have power to that wire. Good.

Downside, those injector signal wires to the ecu are still receiving 12v. All the wiring is correct. So I'm assuming something in the ecu is fried and it's putting 12v to the injector signal wires. .....

 

Is that w/the injector plug connected to the injectors or not. Plugged in and both have 12 volts while when unplugged the wire from the ECU should have none.

 

With the injector harness unplugged from the injectors and the key on, the l/b and b injector wires from the ecu are reading 12 volts with the key on. So is the r/g power wire after I replaced the fuse.

Oddly enough, the additional pink and green injector wires for injectors 3 and 4 are reading 10.8 v.

Is it time to buy a new ecu?

I verified all wires connected to the fuse block and relays are connected correctly.

 

call haltech and verify with them, but i do not recall ever a injector driver putting out voltage while idle.


it sure would answer a few of these questions though.

 

Ive seen it. Had the same thing on my e6x. The trigger wires would read voltage, not quite 12, but from 2 - 9ish if they werent activated. Now that youve fixed the fuse you should test ur injectors with the zip tie/paper cup method.

 

Seriously? And the ECU was still functional? I thought the signal wires were supposed to provide a ground for the injector as the r/g wire supplies power.

I will test the injectors in that method once I get my new injector clips, I used too much mana and yanked the pins out of the injector 1 connector.

 

Called Haltech this morning and they informed me that the injector signal wires are supposed to receive 12v with the key on. This is their strategy to prevent the injectors from opening when the key is first turned. This still seems very odd to me.

So I guess the plan of action is to test my injectors once the new pins arrive and make sure I'm getting even fuel flow. I'm starting to wonder if I happened to get a dead injector.

 

So.. I feel like an idiot. Replaced the fuses and the injector clip I broke. Car fired up immediately and idled. So stupid hhahahha. I'm not ashamed to admit that I giggled like a 5 year old school girl when it started.

I will make sure the timing is zeroed tomorrow and start dialing in the fuel.

 

Good for you, but being a 5 year old, aren't you past your bedtime?

 

hopefully that puts an end to this chapter

 

Did you make sure to eat your vegetables and call mom? Been following your thread and I'm glad to see you got it sorted.

 

This 5 year old don't let no parents make the rules. I dowaht I want, when I want dawwwwwg.

On a serious note, thank you everyone for all your help. Hopefully zeroing the timing goes accordingly and I will be all set.

 

 

^this.

After tearing everything apart it was a fuse.

 

I said to check ur fuses...

 

I did inspect them and it appeared they were ok. The blown fuse looked good until I put a bright light up to it the other night. It had the tiniest gap between sides. Thanks again for the help fuhrtoner.

 

In the future you should use a continuity test to verify that the fuse is good. You could even do the test w/the fuse still in its slot for usually there are two holes open at the top of the fuse where the amperage is printed to test the fuse while still in place.