Its a lot easier to drop the motor in with the intake off. Plus the ecu grounds on the rear rotor housing make sure you got that connected.

 

^we did... thanks.

We took it out complete so we put it in complete.. were going to fire it up tonight here shortly... everyone wish up luck. Start up vid on tonight






or fail vid

 

we failed?! actually on rnd one i found out i put the crank angle sensor in wrong... rd two his dumbass forgot to plug in the map sensor connector and once she was up and running we took it for a drive and down the st the check engine light came on and it felt like we just lost total power?!

limp mode? we blocked off th omp but we left it hooked up and just snug it on the side? tps adjustment?

anyone?

 

good work guys, now if only i can get the motivation to do the same thing

 

check what codes the ecu is putting out.

 

I just found its a lot easier with the intake off plus thats what my book says lol I guess its personal preference. Plus we took the motor out and left the tranny in the car thats probably the directions I was following.
Yeah I'm sure you probably already knew about it dunno about your bro though. Lol I figured it out the hard way.

Good luck.

 

Your the one that should be working on his car !! ********!!! Lol jk

 

hey im trying to help him... im not to FC savy as I really only search the 3rd gen section on this forum... Ive learned a lot on this car too since we got it

So today we got a new battery... it idles kinda rough like maybe the tps needs to be adjusted but the thing is that the tps didnt need an adjustment before we pulled the engine out? shouldnt it still be ok?

We have all new injectors, new plugs, new MAF,plug wires, 02 sensor... crank angle sensor... no vacuum leaks... no exhaust leaks and it idles bad and when u step on the brake it dies?! WTF?! the idle screw on top of the TB is all the way up... im about to burn this motha ****** down!>:-O

 

If the engine is a reman, new or rebuild, it's going to idle bad and not run good on initial startup.

http://www.rotaryresurrection.com/2n...p_breakin.html

One more thing, TPS and other settings are going to need to be adjusted after initial engine breakin is done, and TPS adjustment needs to be redone after the engine gets broken in.

 

the engine is a reman...i guess i wasnt expecting it to run perfect but... if u snap the throttle just a lil more then a bit it wants to die.. we have not revd it over 3k so dont get any impression that were floring it.. even when u step on the break it dies? dammit.. i will continue my search but if anyone wants to chime in please do so

 

let it idle for a 3-4 hrs and or load the gas up heavy with two stroke 60:1-40:1 see if that helps. If you load it up with 2stroke the brake in is longer.

 

I will try that thanks.. I just drove the car and the CEL came on and then it bogged down again

pulled the code and it was code 17-Feedback system ( 02 sensor) feedback cancelled.. but our 02 sensor is new O_o

 

Taken from another thread posted today.

Code 17:

"Feedback shouldn't effect idle since the 02 is used only used in closed loop driving. As in actual driving the car at a steady speed over approx 15-1700 rpm. Your ECU most likely isn't seeing the signal from the 02 sensor for some reason or other. Feedback shouldn't effect idle at all. 02 not a player."

Also, have you checked the operating ability of the bac? When the engine is fully hot and running at idle the removal of the bac plug should cause the idle to drop a bit especially if the headlights are on or a/c is on. In fact the car should want to come closely to stalling outright if the A/c is on and the bac plug is pulled.

 

i had to take a transmission out of mine because of my older brother lol but i am eighteen and i just hope i never have to take the motor out

 

lol dont we all wish that

 

I understand the 02 prolly wouldntve caused a bad. Drivability isuuse like this but it's the only code that the car has? Also drives like it Hellas bogs

I think Ima bypass the 02 connector and just splice them together...

 

ignore the code, it is probably coming up because the car is running excessively rich or lean due to other issues.

threaten it with a hammer and hold it at WOT for about 5 minutes, that will fix it!

 

screw you Ben... Itll die if I go WOT!!... I really cant even get it to idle ok and its getting so fkn frustrating that I really just want to get rid of this damn car!!

I feel like Ive checked evrything I know how to check!AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAHHHHHHHHHHHHH

So.. i got a hold of a timing light and i hooked up the light to L1 wire and.. the pointer was no where near the L mark on the balancer? i took out the crank anlge sensor and did it again and it came out the same O_o... sooooo

I re did it putting it one tooth off both ways and still ran shitty... everytime i adjust the sensor and get the pointer near the mark it just dies! WFT!?

 

hmm, it could have the wrong hub/pulley combo on it somehow like an S4 hub with an S5 pulley. pull off the top cover from the engine so you can see the flywheel from the top by the oil filter, turn the engine to TDC via the timing mark on the hub and try to get me a picture of where the flywheel is in relation to the rear tension bolts looking almost straight down.

it might be tough since it has all the crap in the way.

 

I forget, do S5's have the inital set jumper or is that an S4 thing?
If they do have put a jumper in it and set timing and idle speed? may not hurt to set the idle mixture as well, This will not help the driving problem but still somthing to do just as a rule of thumb.

 

Whats that orange thing? Do I spy fram? Why!?

 

What brand is the O2 sensor? I once replaced 4 O2 sensors in my mom's last SUV, a 1997 Tahoe, and I cheaped out and bought ones made by SNG. I still had a check-engine light because one or more of the sensors (which were brand new) were no good. Later, I finally ordered four new Bosch-made ones and it was fine since. The lesson here is that you don't want to skimp on part quality.

If the engine is bogging above 3000RPM, check the auxiliary ports (or VDI operation) and the secondary fuel injectors. Even if they are new, use an ohm meter and make sure they are within ohm values specified by the FSM. "New" doesn't always mean "free of defects." If nothing else, it'll help narrow the problem down.

Check for vacuum leaks. Did you reuse the rubber hoses or put in new ones? Silicone hose is the defacto standard now--they are resistant to heat and less likely to rot out.

What about the shielded wiring that connects the CAS to the ECU? In the engine compartment at the body-side of the CAS harness, there's a body ground (the cable itself has a metal braided shield). If the CAS signal is dirty, you can run into timing problems.

 

the 02 is a bosch... and its not boggin above 3k... it bogs as soon as you snap the throttle... bad idle and dies at random while idling.. i have no vacuum leaks.. the vacuum hoses are rubber but theyre all new and were replaced one at a time so i routed them just like they were before. I will check the resistance of the injectors... and all the gorunds.. i brought my DVOM home from work so the testing on all sensors begins now

I will post further results tonight... thanks to everyone for the help