kkerb85

iTrader: (2)

so ive been reading posts about this issue the past couple days and im still pulling hair out!!

engine is an s5 na in a vert.
haltech 1000 with the patch to use the stock harness

got no spark while cranking, but spark when i spin the CAS manually.
i do have power to the green/yellow at the white plug at the coil. ive ohm checked the leading coil and both parts of the trailing coil. also ohm checked the cas wiring and it all checks out with the specs in the manual. ive cleaned up all my grounds and regrounded a few of them to better areas. when the cas is in the car and i crank with the starter (haltech reads about 250 rpm) i have no bouncing of the tach...when spun by hand (i can get rpm up to 150-180) i have tach bounce...

has anybody fixed this issue with an ignition switch??? it seems the only possible place to look at this point, due to the fact that in start position is when i do not get spark.

any help or a poke in the right direction would be much appreciated!!

im going to try key on and jump the starter tomorrow to see if i do or do not have spark. i would assume that if i do have spark the ign switch would be to blame.

satch

iTrader: (1)

There are some voltage source wires that have power w/key to on but not w/key to start while there are those that have power w/key to start and key to on as well. Perhaps you have your ECU powered by a wire that has voltage w/just key to on but not w/key to start and key to on.

kkerb85

iTrader: (2)

T1 is the only plug that does not fire when spinning the cas by hand. Also i dont get the single spark by going key on or key off.

stevensimon

iTrader: (11)

make sure you are pulling power for your haltech from a source that has key on and cranking power. i think the heater circuit is power on that doesnt cut when cranking the car.

hook your mulitmeter to a acc source with key on to see 12v. then crank the car and see if you still get 12v or if it drops to 0..

haltech wont power up with anything less than 8-9v and if your battery is too weak to sustain that voltage then obviously youre not going to get spark because the computer is dead.

satch

iTrader: (1)

I'll try again. There are wires which have voltage only w/key to on and there are wires that have voltage w/key to start as well as key to on. "If" your ECU is powered by a wire that has voltage w/key to on only then it "won't" have power w/key to start. Understand?

And what stevesimon states is also a possible cause of your problem if the voltage is too low upon starting the car the ECU will not operate properly.

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

does the ECU show RPM when cranking? if not its a CAS/wiring problem. if it does, and then goes offline the voltage drops too low for the ecu to stay on.

its also possible you've got the wrong settings in the ecu as well, so double check those

kkerb85

iTrader: (2)

Satch i do understand, and my ecu does not cut power while cranking. The red led also indicates that i have trigger and home signal being supplied to the ecu. Haltech reads rpm while cranking. Voltage while. Ranking is about 11.5