2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

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Old Jul 21, 2010 | 02:13 PM
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From: crater on mars
Angry Starting Issues

I recently changed my gaskets, vac lines, spark plugs, and spark plug wires. Didnt turn her on for a good month but left the oil in the engine. My battery is dead so my friend and I tried to jump start her. She would crank but she still will not start! The fuel system should be getting enough pressure cause I tried cranking her up for 20min. I also smelled gas from the exhaust. When replacing my spark plug wires does the T1 on the coils represent trailing 1st or front rotor housing? Same with T2 L1 L2. Hopefully I didnt put my plugs in the wrong way. I also cleaned out the coils with WD40 and cotton swabs. Also tried deflooding my engine. Fail. Im going to buy a new battery today but if that doesnt work what do you people advise me to do?

Peace
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Old Jul 21, 2010 | 02:26 PM
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From: tulsa,ok.
Since the leading coils fire at the same they could be switched and it wouldn't change anything. When looking at the trailing coil from the drive's side fender the plug wire on the left goes to the front rotor and the one on the right goes to the rear (closest to the firewall). Remember, Leading (L=lower) are the lower plugs and trailing (T=top) are the top
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Old Jul 21, 2010 | 02:29 PM
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Originally Posted by NatAsRex7
When replacing my spark plug wires does the T1 on the coils represent trailing 1st or front rotor housing? Same with T2 L1 L2. Hopefully I didnt put my plugs in the wrong way.
*cough* https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/changing-spark-plugs-543680/

Originally Posted by NatAsRex7
The fuel system should be getting enough pressure cause I tried cranking her up for 20min. I also smelled gas from the exhaust.
Just because your engine was cranking doesn't mean your fuel pump was working... (read as: check to see if you hear your fuel pump running)

Originally Posted by NatAsRex7
Im going to buy a new battery today but if that doesnt work what do you people advise me to do?
Aside from the fact I am assuming you have no major vacuum leaks (since you did re-check all your vacuum lines right?) and you made sure you didn't miss the connections for the sensors such as the AFM and TPS, ECT, ect... It sounds like the engine was just flooded and you need to do the extreme de-flood proceedure that includes adding a teaspoon of engine oil to the chambers...
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Old Jul 21, 2010 | 02:37 PM
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From: crater on mars
When you say chambers you mean the spark plug holes?
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Old Jul 21, 2010 | 02:47 PM
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http://rx7.com/techarticles_unfloodFC.html Replaced ATF listed there with ENGINE OIL
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Old Jul 21, 2010 | 02:57 PM
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From: crater on mars
Originally Posted by jjcobm
http://rx7.com/techarticles_unfloodFC.html Replaced ATF listed there with ENGINE OIL
OMAN thanks! =]
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Old Jul 22, 2010 | 12:42 AM
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From: crater on mars
Originally Posted by jjcobm
http://rx7.com/techarticles_unfloodFC.html Replaced ATF listed there with ENGINE OIL
So I tried to do both methods and a whole alot of fuel came out. I basically tried to unflood the car for almost 30 minutes. The car sounds like its about to start but it doesnt. I never messed with the crank angle sensor before I started to work on the car. Is there any way that the ignition timing moved? Im really new to this. Sorry for the dumb questions And if the ingnition timing is incorrect how would I move it back to the correct timing. btw the car had no problem starting before I worked on it. Compression numbers show 100+. The AFM works no vac leaks. Help please.
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Old Jul 22, 2010 | 10:41 AM
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If you have enough room in your drive way/road/street, you can always push start your car. People have good success with this. Or have the car towed by a truck with your car in gear to have the engine spin as you get towed (make sure you leave the key on ON when doing this)....

If you had that much fuel in there, I would say you definitely will have a hard time starting her. I have had times where I though I killed the engine and all it required was a very thorough de-flood. You may also try some starting fluid by removing the air filter and spraying into the intake track while cranking (this stuff works magic)....

Remove all spark plugs. Pull EGI fuse. Crank engine for 10 seconds with foot on gas pedal to the floor. Put a little oil in chambers. Crank for 10 seconds with foot on gas pedal to the floor, stop. Wait 30 seconds. Crank for 10 seconds with foot on gas pedal to the floor. Wait 30 seconds again, and crank with foot on gas pedal to the floor for 10 more seconds.

Clean and reinstall spark plugs and wires. Start the car without stepping on the gas pedal and it should start. May want to spray starting fluid at this point.

If you disconnected your water temperature sensor, the engine will dump a lot of fuel making it think it's cold outside. If you forgot some of the bigger vacuum lines, especially the two on the black intake tube you may have hard start issues. Did you plug in all your injectors? I should emphasize you look over everything again you touched or removed again...

And one more thing. If your car is parked on an incline with the nose of the car facing downhill, you will never get it un-flooded. You need to be on a level surface or have the tail of the car facing downhill if on an incline.
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Old Jul 22, 2010 | 11:12 AM
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If the water thermo sensor is left off............the ECU defaults to 176* F which results in not enough fuel for starting the car. The engine will sound like it wants to start but can't 'cause there is not enough fuel being injected during start.
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Old Jul 22, 2010 | 11:43 AM
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Originally Posted by HAILERS
If the water thermo sensor is left off............the ECU defaults to 176* F which results in not enough fuel for starting the car. The engine will sound like it wants to start but can't 'cause there is not enough fuel being injected during start.
Ahhh, opposite than what I am used to on other cars....
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