Can you remove the 6 port Auxillary sleeve inserts completely? I am looking into porting my own engine, I know those inserts cant be there especially when u do a bridge port on 5/6 Aux. but wouldnt there be too sharp of a radius. I know u can install pinneaple inserts or even wire them open (did it to my FC) just wondering what they look like removed and how well it works.
-Thanks

 

Sleeves or sleeve inserts? Sleeve inserts can be removed with a little patience unless they JB welded them in... The entire sleeves can be removed regardless... With them removed is the same as having them wired open... (sucks in my opinion of doing testing of both functioning and non-functioning auxiliary ports)

See my "how to" in signature.

 

Yeah I understand but what do u do when u do a Bridgeport for example. Wouldn't the inserts be in the way? Anybody have pics or a link

 

Sleeves or inserts????????? If you go bridge-port you definitely will not want the sleeves in the intake path, nor would you even want the stock intake manifolds or exhaust.... The sleeves would be the last thing to worry about.

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eC037P88VGE

found exactly what I was looking for. this is a bridge port of the AUX only (1/3th bridge).

 

Having driven with functioning and with fully opened auxiliary ports for a long periods of time (obviously not at the same time), leave them in and leave them working. Your car is far faster on the street this way. Forget the whole peak power thing. You won't make anymore power anyways unless you remove them completely and replace them with an epoxy radius in the runner. You can make more power on a dyno and yet be slower in the real world although you'll most likely just make the same peak power and less at the other 99% of your usable rpm range. It's not worth it in the name of cleaning up your engine bay. Then again neither is removing the air pump, a/c, p/s, etc...

As far as bridging the aux ports goes, I'll laugh my *** off at anyone foolish enough to do it (again). It doesn't work for crap. It has been explained over and over again why and no one anywhere has ever made it work up to an acceptable standard. People try it over and over again all saying the same thing that just because others haven't made it work doesn't mean they can't. Um, in this case yes it does! They never have either. If you can break 200 rwhp with a streetport (and you can), yet no one has ever done it with the aux port bridge, what's the point? All the negatives of a bridgeport with none of the benefits. It is a complete waste of time. Especially if you intend to run anything even resembling the factory intake manifold, exhaust system, or ecu. No an RTEK is not going to help you nor is any variation of the stock intake or exhaust system. No you should not do it "until you get around to doing the other mods". Forget you have ever even thought about equating the term bridgeport with a 6 port engine. If you really want to do it, go full bridge or no bridge but don't bother with the aux bridge scam. Then if you do go full bridge, replace the entire intake and exhaust system, and use a complete true standalone ecu that gets rid of the air flow meter. If you aren't doing ANY of this, you don't want any kind of bridgeport on an n/a engine. Again, don't do it with the justification that you'll add the rest later. Do them first. Porting should always be the very last mod you can possibly do to the car anyways.

Don't worry about that sharp radius. It is an evil that comes with those motors and there really isn't much you can do about it on the short turn side. The long turn side can be fixed with the Pineapple inserts.

 

In the defence of the RTEK, they're working on the AFM delete. AND When it is released with boost vs rpm fueling(no more AFM), will you consider it to be a"complete true standalone ecu"?

i've not had one 5th/6th port system STAY working, it seems like after 6 months or a year ,one or the other start to freeze up. besides the fact s4 cars loose the AUX ports with a freeflowing exhaust. if you can stand your ears to bleeding, put a strieght exhaust, remove the sleeves AND the rods. theres abit of power to be gained, without having to take the manifold back off in 6 months to clean them and re-lube them. however below 3500 suffers terriably, it makes it hella peaky, but i ran 9.6 in the 1/8 with my First 7.