Well then, apparently my RX7 is responsible for global warming as we know it...

Loaded Results

HC : 447 tested / 220 max
CO: 3.43 tested / 1.20 max

Idle Results

HC: 190 tested / 220 max
CO: 0.11 tested / 1.20 max


Idle passed pretty well, but at speed test on the rollers bombed something fierce.

A little description of the test: Short idle test, sniffers in both pipes. Full visual inspection . Load test seemed to have been run at about 40-50 mph for 2 minutes.

I've done a few things already, I completley reset idle and mixture as per the FSM. Verified ACV was working correctly at idle (both lines have vacuum at idle and no air is being dumped) and as engine RPM increases the amount of air being dumped slowly increases.

So much HC and CO, seems like it's running rich as a pig. My gas mileage sucks, I'd be glad to get this fixed if it means I can get more than 15 mpg

Some other info, of course 1988 SE Automatic. Suspected blown coolant seal, car runs fantastic except for smoke on startup when cold and over 4000 rpm, but the throttle cable is so stretched when pressing the pedal to the floor you are only giving it 50% throttle .. weee

All emissions equipment is present and stock.

So , where to start?

(and I live in Arizona where emissions is state run so bribes are not applicable, so don't give me that answer )

 

Updates as I go along:

Pulled codes, nothing. No errors. Hooray. Time to start checking sensors one by one.

 

we put mine on the tester in test mode with i first got it runing.... when it go to 3500 HC we pulled the sniffer out of the tail pipe and got the car out of there quickly.

 

So , where to start?

My 87 passed after putting a new cat on...the origional was on for my first attempt (in PA) got a new CAT and it just barely made it

 

Ok so I did a little shopping,

brand new NGK leading and trailing plugs
brand new plug wires
brand new NEIHOFF water thermo sensor

anything else to try before I do another retry?

With the rolling dyno at 40-45 mph for 2-3 minutes , would the oxygen sensor be coming into play and should i replace that?

 

While I don't say for sure it's not the catalytic converter going bad, the idle emissions seems to indicate it's working ok at idle speeds and likely at higher speeds.

I know off hand from gas mileage the car is running a bit on the rich side. On average I get 15-18 mpg which is **** poor for a stock N/A .

 

if you do alot of city driving, 15-18 isn't that bad, sadly.

 

You could try the airpump mode that hailers I believe posted. I think its in the archives, you'll pass for sure though doing it.

 

find a ref that will only sniff one pipe. it might help

 

Make sure that you run the test in as low a gear as possible 2 meet the rpm requirements.... more rpm == more particles which causes less abd particles per million somehow. The only way my car passed the 15mph 50% load test was in 1st gear. (of course, my cat failed 2 months later)

I get 15 generally and 17.6 is my max with mixed highway driving.

 

ok here are a few ideas for you, new oil, new plugs, new or low miles cat, and air pump directly pumping air into the cat

 

I could just replace the engine too :P

 

personally, if the cat is even a few years old and has some miles on it that would be where i would put my money first before anything.

 

pshhh i was way over 6000 hc's

 

The O2 sensor should be working at the test load and speed. The O2 sensor is also quite a bit cheaper than the cat and much easier to replace. Since your idle emissions aren't messed up I'd say the plugs and wires are likely to be ok, but you certainly won't hurt anything changing them. So try the O2 sensor then the cat.

 

Bingo, just what I was lookin for.

Was trying to figure out if the loaded test would put it into the mode that actually uses the O2 sensor.

Thanks

 

put alcohol in your gas tank, then fill up right after the test to dilute it, problem solved. I live in AZ as well down here in gilbert. In november i took my car for emissions testing when i first got it, passed 1/2 under the limit they didn't look under the hood much. I'm afraid of how its going to be when i do all my mods (turbo etc.)

 

Before replacing cats or other expensive components, you need to do a FULL 60K tuneup. All fluids, TPS adjustment, plugs, wires, all filters, etc. EVERYTHING. Make sure there are no problems before you try and band-aid solutions.

If you are still having issues, then it's time to look at cat replacement and injector cleaning.

 

I think he will be bringing the car by my house. I can pretty much get anything through AZ emissions.

 

I know in Jersey the rule for emission is that if you don't pass you only have to spend a maximum of $200 to try and get it to pass IIRC, so if it is similar where you live you could just find some emission shop that you can pay a couple bucks to print you a fake receipt saying you paid the maximum.

 

Gettin there. FSM procedures are long and boring, I just got finished with that wonderfully boring emissions checking procedure and idle speed/mixture adjustment.

Now on to secondary air injection .. where I suspect the fault is, but we'll see, im going to take it to the AZ emissions expert here to see if he can trick it's way through.

 

Concentrate on whether the ACV is working right or not. It should not be dumping the airpump air into the relief hose (bottom large hose on the acv that goes into the right fender) at idle. It should do that only if the revs are over 3800 rpm. That air is supposed to be going to the exaust ports at the *header*. IF its dumping into the relief hose its doing nobody any good.

 

well here is my suggestion though how close you were i would tend to think it is just an old cat and no major problems with the ignition or injection systems...

if you have the money to spare then a full tune up is the best place to start including a new O2 though i will reiterate you can pass emissions without an O2 even hooked up, i did and passed easily. (but for this you need an SAFC or another way of tuning fuel delivery. an SAFC is a great tool for emissions tuning though and can be easily hidden and a used one can be bought for ~$150-175)

1)double check the ignition timing
2)set the TPS, this is a huge contributor to high engine load and off idle emissions and lowered fuel economy
3)make sure the split air pipe is supplying air to the cat under a load, kind of tricky to test but it can be done
4)clean the carbon from the internals, spray a can of carburetor cleaner into one of the small vacuum ports while holding the engine at 3000RPMs to clean the carbon off the internals


after all of this is done i would recheck the emissions, if it still fails i say the cat is at fault.

 

Nah. His ACV isn't working. It's dumping the air overboard. Either it's not getting the signal from the relief and switching solenoids or the diaphrams internal to the ACV are toast or hard as a rock.

Now go out there and check things out and tell us who was right!

 

Like I said, he is bringing the car over tomorrow.. dont worry guys, its in GOOD hands.