RancidFC3s

I have a 1986 na fc. and everytime i start it it idles about 2grand and then drops to 1grand.. then it will start to pulse up and down and if i rev it up to about 4 grand it goes typical rx7 pop pop pop brap pop. but then a whole bunch of smoke comes out...

It's for the most part white. and i checked coolant levels and everything, but I don't seem to be loosing coolant.... my rad is way over filled though is this a problem?

Please help, I'm a newb!

clokker

iTrader: (2)

How do you "overfill" a radiator?

RancidFC3s

well okay so it's like packed to the top.....

i pull off either of the two radiator caps and boom radiator fluid everywhere. and no it wasn't hot or anything...

I don't really know how to explain it anybetter...

PvillKnight7

iTrader: (16)

two radiator caps....is the one on the engine higher than the one on the radiator?

and you took off the one on the radiator and boom the coolant came out?

philly101

wer is the smoke come n from

lastphaseofthis

iTrader: (8)

blown motor? causing compression of the coolant system?

clokker

iTrader: (2)

Possible...and easy enough to check.
Revove the cap that's the highest (on the thermostat neck, probably) and start the car.
If you see a constant stream of bubbles, well...that ain't good.

RancidFC3s

the smoke is coming from the exaust.....

and the engine was rebuilt about 17000 miles ago from what the guy said...

either cap i pull off there is fluid everywhere...

It's safe to pull the upper cap off and run the car? that won't suck any air in?

clokker

iTrader: (2)

Yes.
No.

SpikeDerailed

iTrader: (7)

Your rad was replaced at some point, I would personally use whichever radiator cap is higher in the system. It shouldn't be automatically under pressure when its cold and running. If you dont take off the cap while its running when it cools down will you have lost any coolant?

2slow4stock

iTrader: (18)

Or take the damn radiator cap off with the car cooled down, and crank it. Does you coolant come out of the hole? If so, that sucks.

mazdaverx713b

iTrader: (91)

sounds like you are not starting the engine correctly. depress the acelerator once to the floor and release and then start the engine. this will improve cold idling from first start up. as far as the smoke is concerned, what color is it. my 10AE pumps out some nasty brown smoke when cold. its rich due to the cold start enrichment process. how much smoke is the thing belching out?

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

Depressing and releasing the pedal will do nothing. There is no power to the ECU. This is also not specified in the owners manual. All EFI cars are to be started with no pressure on the pedal.

There are multiple problems with this car. A bad or misadjusted TPS and vacuum leaks are causing the idle bouncing.

The smoke depends a little. If you are not loosing coolant it is not coolant. Oil can make nice white smoke at startup as well.

mazdaverx713b

iTrader: (91)

this is where you are incorrect. depressing the accelerator once and releasing it is supposed to set the fast idle cam. i've seen erratic idling on first start at times when i've forgotten to do this. shouldn't explain the smoke though. here's where it states to do so in the owners manual:

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

Oops, forgot about the cold instructions.

But the cold idle cam is "set" every time the engine cools down. Never had to do this in any properly maintained FC.

mazdaverx713b

iTrader: (91)

easy to forget about, trust me. the FC can be a nightmare when you forget little things as i have found out the hard way, lol..

RancidFC3s

So what is really going on is, i start the car, it idles fine at 1700 rpm though, and after a minute or two it starts bouncing, after the engine is to temp it stops bouncing and idles beautifully. it smokes because of the oil that was in it... my car didn't like 10w30...

mazdaverx713b

iTrader: (91)

my 85 GS with a 13B EGI engine does that if i don't properly start the engine when cold using the depress the pedal once method.

Black Knight RX7 FC3S

iTrader: (7)

try taking the cap off when engine is cold or when hot (though becareful of hot coolant if the system is pressurized) and crank the engine. if coolants starts spewing out, you got a blown coolant seal.

Also try and test the TPS sensor. Its one reason why the idle is lumpy.

RancidFC3s

Thank you guys Very much, I will definitely try this.

also... I am lead to believe my coolant overflow is not hooked up. It was plugged off.. could this creat pressure when the car is started? and then turned off? Like when it's not hot after a few nights of sitting it still is pressurized...

clokker

iTrader: (2)

It's one thing to not have a coolant recovery system and another entirely to plug it off.
If the overflow nipple is indeed physically blocked, then yes, that could explain part of your problem.

And what is this "I am lead to believe" business?
Either it's blocked or it's not...

RancidFC3s

word. thanks.

and this " I am lead to believe" business, it's called a build up. It extends conversation upon us americans leading us to be able to bastardize the language more.