I have been searching around an i havent found a thread where someone deletes the smog pump and keeps the 5/6 ports. I dont want to wire them open and i dont have to worry about emissions, i will be going straight pipe all the way back to a muffler. I think that it takes like 2-3psi to get them to actuate. Its a 87 na. Also, double alt pulley vs. different belt?

 

There are a couple of ways to do it:

Drill and tap the Headers, then run a tube from the exhaust to the actuators. There are actually headers with one installed already for sale (This is the easiest, but not sure how effective it would be with straight pipes and less backpressure to actuate the ports.)

Get a small electric air pump w/ regulator and an RPM switch, wire it all up to turn on at a certain RPM and run a tube to the actuators. This is the method I used for a while before I killed my last NA, it works but isn't pretty.

NOTE: This is for s4 only, s5 uses a completely different system.

 

I've toyed around with the idea in my head of keeping the air pump on and feeding ONLY the actuators with it. Not sure how you would regulate the air, but that would be a cheap and easy solution. Plus it would still look a bit more legal to inspecting eyes.

 

I really dont want to ADD clutter. Thats why i want to get rid of it. It all works an the main reason i thought of just taking it off was because the head of the bolt to loosen the belt broke off and thats when i started thinking of just removing the whole thing to fee up more space and only run one belt. Although everyone said to go dual alt pulley to avoid slippage and some even said they ised smaller belts...

 

Look up the "Yoo-Hoo" belt if you don't want to go Dual Pulley, but yes if you remove the air pump it is recommended that you do one of the two to avoid slippage.

Unfortunately as far as the actuators go, those are your options. IIRC, the first option I listed has been used with success. There are several threads on it if you refine your searches a bit I'm sure you'll come up with something.

 

While its not the cheapest option, the rb headers is the way to go. They make one where a small hose hooks up to it and the ports can get the air needed from there. Then you can buy a piece called a flange(i think) and weld it to ur straight pipes, then you can bolt it right up to ur new headers. I have the flange piece for the rb headers if you go this way. Id sell it for like 5$ you pay the shipping. I was gonna do the straight pipes but I just decided to buy the pre silencer too. I'll also note that my exhaust is quiet when I'm not on the gas but WOT she screams. So you may want to consider the pre silencer too cause it would probably be even louder without one.

 

I have seen that header with the pick up tube. That seems like it would be the simplest way, especially since i need to upgrade anyways. It looks like ill have to wait than. Guess ill have to deal with that broken bolt after all...i think ill go with the rb header.
Will i need to get block off plates or something, i was told that was only needed for s5's and my s4 would only require plugging up a hose or something

 

That's what I did! It works great, is super reliable... And cheap. There is no downside [Ok, so it doesn't look the best :P ]

Go Airpump-> T with a valve on one end and step downs to vacuum hose on the other end, adjust valve as needed.

Just use a small drill bit and try to spin out the end of the bolt, buy new bolt and the aforementioned pieces and be done.

AFAIK, the RB header solution only works under load... Meaning you can't easily test if they're working at all or, much harder, if at the right time.... But I could be wrong about that.

 

I also looked at testing or checking my 5th/6th port actuators, and I read to smear grease on the rod and take a drive. Then look to see if the grease smeared or not. And another way I read to check them is to simply push the little rod in by hand. It doesn't take much force, mine pushed in and popped right back out.

 

Don't know if you're serious about deleting the pump and saving space or just looking for a cheap, easy solution.

If serious about deleting the pump and still controlling the actuators, here is an excellent solution:
https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generati...needed-351918/

 

I've never understood exactly how this "test" reveals anything.
The rod extends when actuated, by the time you stop and look the rod has retracted again.
How is a dab of grease showing you the rod has moved?

 

if the grease has smeared then the actuators are working. if the grease is just as you left it they arent. i might try this if not the smog pump trick should do nicely. seems easy enough.

 

I will take the pump out on wed and see if i cant get that bolt out with some vice grips or reverse drill bit or something.
That link is awesome and i may go that route if i decide to eliminate my pump completely. Thanks guys, this has really helped and given me a couple solid options. I will report back on wed after dealing with the lower radiator hose not fitting right.

 

How does the rod extending smear the grease in a way you can see?

 

somehow that sentence disturbs me...lol!

 

It works on S4's. The rod gets pulled into the actuator so if the grease is placed correctly, it smears. S5's extend out of the actuator, so no smeariing.

 

Found out today that the smog pump in my car does not actuate the 5/6 ports. The exhaust does that via pick up tube. The smog pump didnt actuate ports until later on maybe 89 iirc. So my smog pump has been taken out and once i get my fuel issue resolved, ill have my car up an moving

 

yeah smog pump doesnt actually do anything to the actuators. im taking mine out too, just waiting on all the block off plates i ordered for the egr, air valve on the side of the engine.

 

Im toyin with te idea of making my own, just to see if i can and how hard it will be.

 

We did our own.

We got an RB header (you can use any header) and just tap a line from the center of the first header opening that will extend a couple of feet.

Then add a rubber line to the actuators.

Works better than the actual air pump and lines, and its clean as heck.

Here is the one we just did for mine:

 

BTW, what is a Yoho belt?

Gotta look that up because I want to remove the air pump now that I do not need it, but I do not want a double pulley that will do a crappy 60 amp alternator run slower.... (nor want to pay $50-$100 for an FD alternator...)

 

Ok, found what they are... but I think I will just gut the air pump and leave it as an idler pulley.