Saving her from hurricane sandy
01-02-13, 02:19 AM
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Saving her from hurricane sandy
Before i start its an 88 s4 n/a gxl. Gonna ask a bunch of questions
So I've finally been able to pick up my car from my dads place after hurricane sandy hit him (lives on the beach) don't ask why I left it there.
She won't crank only click but if I push start it, it fires up no problem. I'm assuming the starter is seized, how hard is it to change it out? I read I have to lift it up to get to it from the bottom.
Also as I was driving it back I started to smell that sweet smell of coolant and popped the hood to see this
What exactly is the name of what's leaking? This leads to the t-stat housing I believe right? Is it the gasket or the coolant bleeder valve? I want to fix this ASAP because I know how deathly it is for rotaries to overheat, I just don't know what I'm looking for. While I'm replacing that should I pick up a t-stat as well? My cars always stayed at 1/3 which I always keep an eye on.
While I clean her up I'm changing ALL fluids. What fluids are recommended for the tranny? I want something that'll help with smoother shifts and quiet down my syncros a bit. And what fluid is good for the rear diff? I have an LSD. What else would be a good idea to change? I'm doing this all myself so it isn't a big deal all I'm doing is paying for parts
Right after I picked her up haha
So I've finally been able to pick up my car from my dads place after hurricane sandy hit him (lives on the beach) don't ask why I left it there.
She won't crank only click but if I push start it, it fires up no problem. I'm assuming the starter is seized, how hard is it to change it out? I read I have to lift it up to get to it from the bottom.
Also as I was driving it back I started to smell that sweet smell of coolant and popped the hood to see this
What exactly is the name of what's leaking? This leads to the t-stat housing I believe right? Is it the gasket or the coolant bleeder valve? I want to fix this ASAP because I know how deathly it is for rotaries to overheat, I just don't know what I'm looking for. While I'm replacing that should I pick up a t-stat as well? My cars always stayed at 1/3 which I always keep an eye on.
While I clean her up I'm changing ALL fluids. What fluids are recommended for the tranny? I want something that'll help with smoother shifts and quiet down my syncros a bit. And what fluid is good for the rear diff? I have an LSD. What else would be a good idea to change? I'm doing this all myself so it isn't a big deal all I'm doing is paying for parts
Right after I picked her up haha
01-02-13, 02:37 AM
#3
That's a radiator (pressure) cap - though it isn't on the radiator in this case. That is one of two parts that should generally be replaced with OEM parts... the other being the thermostat.
The starter is a piece of cake. A couple nuts/bolts. Easily reached either the car is on a lift, or with the front end on jack stands.
Yes, that's the thermostat housing (at the base of that neck). Also just a few bolts if it is the gasket. I'd assume most people don't use the gasket and instead use RTV sealant (5-6 bucks at any auto parts store). Its really up to you.
The leak looks to me like its just coming from the cap. And since it is the easiest/quickest part to replace... I'd start there.
Check the FAQs for what oil to use in the tranny... you'll get lots of differing opinions.
Good luck.
The starter is a piece of cake. A couple nuts/bolts. Easily reached either the car is on a lift, or with the front end on jack stands.
Yes, that's the thermostat housing (at the base of that neck). Also just a few bolts if it is the gasket. I'd assume most people don't use the gasket and instead use RTV sealant (5-6 bucks at any auto parts store). Its really up to you.
The leak looks to me like its just coming from the cap. And since it is the easiest/quickest part to replace... I'd start there.
Check the FAQs for what oil to use in the tranny... you'll get lots of differing opinions.
Good luck.
01-02-13, 06:53 AM
#4
The starter is "a piece of cake".
Get it from underneath after disconnecting the battery.
Remove the two electrical connections- the starter wire (spade connection, just pulls off) and the battery power cable (12mm socket).
Two bolts hold the starter to the block.
The bottom one just threads into the rear iron (14mm socket), the top is actually a long bolt with a nut on the end (both ends are 14mm). This bolt also holds the starter ground cable.
In the transmission I use Red Line MT-90 (75w/90).
Get it from underneath after disconnecting the battery.
Remove the two electrical connections- the starter wire (spade connection, just pulls off) and the battery power cable (12mm socket).
Two bolts hold the starter to the block.
The bottom one just threads into the rear iron (14mm socket), the top is actually a long bolt with a nut on the end (both ends are 14mm). This bolt also holds the starter ground cable.
In the transmission I use Red Line MT-90 (75w/90).
01-02-13, 10:51 AM
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The thermostat should be replaced with an OEM unit.
Also the plastic housing(what the cap sits on) that sits on the aluminum neck has an O Ring on the bottom of it.If you take that off(using a 12mm socket or wrench) you will see it..Don't forget that O ring.
Also the plastic housing(what the cap sits on) that sits on the aluminum neck has an O Ring on the bottom of it.If you take that off(using a 12mm socket or wrench) you will see it..Don't forget that O ring.
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01-03-13, 12:10 PM
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Happened to my s4 when I had it, the bolts just get corroded and the heads snap before it even turns. The solution was to find nuts that threaded on and quickly weld them on with high heat then while they're still cherry red you get the socket on there and loosen them, come right out.
01-03-13, 12:15 PM
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Thanks for all the replies so far guys, I just need to find some time off work to get started on working on her. As well as some money. You've all been great help
All 4 brakes seized up so I'm planning on rebuilding all 4 calipers, drilled slotted rotors, and aggressive hawk or ebc pads. There really is no need for a BBK on a street car right? Stock 4 piston fronts should be more than sufficient right?
All 4 brakes seized up so I'm planning on rebuilding all 4 calipers, drilled slotted rotors, and aggressive hawk or ebc pads. There really is no need for a BBK on a street car right? Stock 4 piston fronts should be more than sufficient right?
01-03-13, 12:24 PM
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This was right after the hurricane by the way. I really was lucky and so was my dad that his house wasnt destroyed.... His car on the other hand. Well you can see that in the back
01-05-13, 07:01 PM
#16
One of mine got it pretty bad too... 1st pic is the nose after the water pushed her 10 ft up the driveway... 2nd is looking out front of the driveway @ the neighbors truck. 3rd is the interior waterline, (btw 83 leather that *WAS* mint). This was Long Beach. Don't ask me why I parked her there either...?? After Irene ate my pretty decent TII parts car u think I would of learned my lesson. No big deal though considering the mess peoples homes suffered.
01-06-13, 07:43 AM
#17
If you want to save $50 vs buying that plastic thermostat neck to cap plastic part from mazda-
You can get the same part from a Z31 (84-89) Nissan 300ZX in the junkyard, & the part's made from brass. No cracking/lifting/deforming as the OEM mazda plastic one does. The hose barb is longer, but can be bent to fit.
You can see it here.
You can get the same part from a Z31 (84-89) Nissan 300ZX in the junkyard, & the part's made from brass. No cracking/lifting/deforming as the OEM mazda plastic one does. The hose barb is longer, but can be bent to fit.
You can see it here.
01-06-13, 10:48 AM
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If you want to save $50 vs buying that plastic thermostat neck to cap plastic part from mazda-
You can get the same part from a Z31 (84-89) Nissan 300ZX in the junkyard, & the part's made from brass. No cracking/lifting/deforming as the OEM mazda plastic one does. The hose barb is longer, but can be bent to fit.
You can see it here.
You can get the same part from a Z31 (84-89) Nissan 300ZX in the junkyard, & the part's made from brass. No cracking/lifting/deforming as the OEM mazda plastic one does. The hose barb is longer, but can be bent to fit.
You can see it here.
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