I have an 88 GXL and have come up with my own 86-91 Electronic 5th and 6th port actuator design.
I've read others on how to use an air-pump with an electronic switch or just a fabrication of bleeder valves to the stock air-pump. You can take out your stock air-pump (HP Gain) on all 86-91 RX7s using this system.
My own creation is one that I have not been able to find anywhere or on any other website. I have made brackets attached to electronic solenoids to take the place of the 5th and 6th port actuators. Solenoids can be set to open between 2K and 8K within 200 RPM increments. I have been running them for 6 month now and they are still working strong. I redline all the time now that I have these babies installed.
This is my daily driver so my reason behind all this was MORE POWER and Fuel Efficiency.
I plan to sell these as a Complete Kit with wiring instructions for $160. If anybody is interested in this set up let me know.
E-mail: Badmofo3000@yahoo.com

 

o **** yeah!!!

 

Thats a very clever design.. What controls them opening at exactly the right rpm?how is this wired into the engine?

 

Make some more brackets, and everything else needed, package it up, and PM me with a price.

I know I could do it myself, but dammit I'm lazy!!!






BTW... im serious



EDIT::::Whoops... just read the end of your message. 160???? Jeebus. Maybe I will fab them myself

 

Hmm.....

Just though of something.

Since the S5s actuators are at the bottom in the port's "closed" position... how would this work with S4 LIMs? The actuators are at the top in the port's closed position, and pull down to open (I have a S4 LIM)

 

I've dealt with the S4 LIM extensively, and it looks identical to his picture. Those selenoids pull down.

 

I'd be concerned about the long term reliability of this system as the solenoids will get cooked with heat off the exhaust and would probably fail eventually form the heat (also you need to make sure they are rated for the load you place on them, most would not be up to the task). But it is a very appealing idea. The only reason I still have the airpump is for the 5/6p and VDI. I'd love to be able to get rid of it.

 

I agree, I give those solenoids no more than 2 months life.

 

He says he's been running them for 6 months.

 

Very creative idea, Badmofo3000. Have you thought about controlling the solenoid actuation with an electronic VTEC controller such as the Apexi V-AFC or Field SFC-VTEC??? That way you get the best of both worlds --> electronic control of 5th & 6th ports via RPM plus A/F management!!


When I rebuilt my S5 N/A motor back in the day, I eliminated the 5th & 6th ports altogether, but I was toying with using this idea to control the VDI actuator.. Never got around to finding a suitable solenoid before the car sold...


And I still have a Field SFC-VTEC "Boxer Series" unit sitting around, if someone is interested in making this idea work!! Looks like this:

 

In a car with headers.

Those things aren't getting NEAR the heat soak they will in a car with an exhaust manifold.

 

very creative idea, gives me idea's

 

I'd build I heat shield for those.

 

I like that. but i did notice once thing.. those vacuum lines for the ACV... GET RID OF THEM. lol. since you dont have the ACV you can remove those 2 vac lines above the bloock off plate plus the 2 electronic solenoids for the ACV . but thats soemthing diff..

i do like that idea alot. I used a msd switch with a lumbar air pump for my ports untill i snapped one of the studs off for one of the actuators so i now use that same air pump for the VDI when i installed the VDI manifold on my s4 block and i just wired the ports open

HEY Kingofl337.... Im from Amherst NH. ! been looking for other owners around here.. my AIM is ViperDude152... ill try to get in touch with ya..

Justin

 

For activation of my ports I use the summit racing rpm switch (my ecu decided to stop sending signal to the 5/6 ports to open). You can get the rpm signal from off the bullet connector on the leading coils (there for the AAS). Just adjust it by turning the *** untill the activation light comes on at the desired rpm (check it with the tach, don't just set it and think that it'll be right)

http://store.summitracing.com/defaul...0449&x=12&y=10

The best thing is that it doesn't use pills.

 

thats a pretty sweet setup, but most of the other setups come in at well under $160..........and probobly dont weigh any more.

 

Excuse my ignorance, but what other setups?

 

Badmofo3000: That's a nice actuation setup! Have you noticed the solenoids getting really hot? Also, do you do any prolonged high-speed driving?
Kenteth: Why do you think that a car with thinwall headers would get less engine bay heat than a car with a cast iron manifold covered by a multilayer heatshield?
andrew lohaus: What other setups? This is the first purely electric actuation system I've seen...

 

I think he means the other homemade setups.

 

Summit switches suck. first you have to find out what dip switches then you have to fine tune it with the adjustable resistor that is on the circuit board... on top of that it RAMPS up voltage. so instead of going from around 0v - 12v when you hit a set rpm.. it will ramp up the voltage to 12v.. say your set limit is 3000. it will turn on at around 2950 and start ramping up voltage to 12v to 3000 rpm. i kept burning out my relays and always having to fix them.

I switched to a MSD switch.. you want to having something come on at 3000 rpm.. put the 3000 rpm pill in. SIMPLE. comes on right at 3000 rpm. no voltage ramps or anything.. I wont ever use summit switches again.

Justin

 

andrew lohas: please post a link to enlighten the rest of us, as to the different prices to this setup.

Viper Dude 152: everyone has their right to their own opinion; I guess its all about personal experience. For me, the Summit switch is working Great. I’m sure a MSD switch will work just fine.

Black91n/a: my setup is for a S4, but am currently working to get rid of the VDI on S5’s. I have the intake and will be installing it on my 7 as soon as I get the setup to work. I’ll pm you once I’ve completed this.

Here are the products I used guys, since most of you think you can build one better and cheaper, go for it!
Solenoid cost: $34.60 each + $8.56 for shipping.
RPM Switch (Summit): $45.95 + handling charge of $8.23.
Relay Switch (keeps the system Safe and in Check): $7.50
Wire and Electrical Connectors: $12
Brackets and Mounting Hardware (Fab Myself): Good LUCK.

Those of you who will search prices on these items: please note that you can and will find some Solenoids that sell from $5 to $20. These won’t work! I’ve tried them (they either melt or short circuit); I too am a cheap bastard! But I finally had to shell out the cash for reliable solenoids with specifications to work in the environment they are in.

The total here is a measly $151.44. My profit of $8.56 is for the wiring instructions and Brackets. Which makes me think I should raise my price…? Still at $160.

As for the working condition of my setup, I’ve driven to EL Paso, TX and back to San Diego, CA. I know, not a very comforting ride. But the drive was 11 hours to get there and 11 hours back. Only stopping for gas. Still working GREAT.

Hope this clears up some confusion guys.

 

kudos for you for trying this out and getting it to work. looks like it is working fine, i just have a few comments:

- for an S5 i would recommend using the actuator signals from the ECU, which would save you from buying an RPM switch; that said, i think that the costs here are a little bit much for an S4. cheaper solutions are available, however i think with some refinement you can improve this design and its cost

- fabricating a heat shield would definetly be a good idea to protect the solenoids being used, but it's not hard to find solenoids that will withstand the heat conditions

- i would like to see this design implement a power-on maintenance function, which basically activates the solenoid briefly when the car is turned on; this would prevent the actuators from getting stuck, and is similar to what is done on the RX-8


anyways, good to see a solution like this

 

Can you post a link to the solenoids describing the conditions they're meant to operate in?

 

I'll paypal you 5 bucks for a parts list with retailers and part numbers for all of the items.

 

I like your idea "1987RX&guy". Make it 10 and I'll do the same for anybody else who is interested. I'll include parts list with part numbers, websites I used to get them, and wiring instructions. This sounds way better. Thanks!!