SDJ Header, or the like.
#1
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SDJ Header, or the like.
I know the plans were sold to someone, then bought by another guy, then production stopped. Corksport doesnt show a header on there site that I am seeing and I havnt seen Ironeagle on here in a long time to ask about one. No mindtrain(sp?) headers are popping up either.
Is there an alternative to the RB that is available and around 400 and so dollars, or am i gonna have to build my own?
Is there an alternative to the RB that is available and around 400 and so dollars, or am i gonna have to build my own?
#2
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Corksport discontinued there n/a header for the fc. i email them last month because i was looking for one. so i bought a used corksport header off a member here. it really sucks that companies stop production on parts for our cars.
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The only header that comes to mind (excluding your price requirement) is the Defined Autoworks header. I'd love to replace my RB with one but there just isn't enough information/comparisons/people running it right now.
#7
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You can get a stainless OBX new for about $225 shipped. I had one on my car for awhile. Quality was good and had a decent power pickup. I ran it with a RB catback and a resonator in place of the main cat.
The OBX header replaces the cast iron manifold, and the 2 precats.
The OBX header replaces the cast iron manifold, and the 2 precats.
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#9
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You can get a stainless OBX new for about $225 shipped. I had one on my car for awhile. Quality was good and had a decent power pickup. I ran it with a RB catback and a resonator in place of the main cat.
The OBX header replaces the cast iron manifold, and the 2 precats.
The OBX header replaces the cast iron manifold, and the 2 precats.
#11
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Yes I ran my wideband 02 in the OBX factory bung and had to use a heatsink for it. It is easy enough to add a bung to the OBX header in the collector if you wanted to though.
Also it is not some goofy length to preclude you from running a main cat if you wanted to.
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Hmm plans have changed. After many maths i think i will build my own. I sold have never sold the SDJ i had. It was so good. But after looking at the math on everything yes I would get i bump but it will not work as well in the powerband i am wanting it to work in.
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True, but the few examples I've seen are on pretty built up engines. I'd like to see some dyno results on regular S4/S5 engines that don't have rotors or housings from other series engines, crazy port jobs or intake setups. Basically what I want to know is on my S5 engine with full RB exhaust, Pineapple inserts and S4 intake what kind of gains I would see with the Defined... So I need someone with a similar setup that has more time and money than I do haha.
#14
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For bank for the buck I think the OBX is probably the best. I would not think twice about running one again if I had an NA rotary. It is less than half the price of a RB setup and probably 90% or more of the performance.
Yes I ran my wideband 02 in the OBX factory bung and had to use a heatsink for it. It is easy enough to add a bung to the OBX header in the collector if you wanted to though.
Also it is not some goofy length to preclude you from running a main cat if you wanted to.
Yes I ran my wideband 02 in the OBX factory bung and had to use a heatsink for it. It is easy enough to add a bung to the OBX header in the collector if you wanted to though.
Also it is not some goofy length to preclude you from running a main cat if you wanted to.
#15
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True, but the few examples I've seen are on pretty built up engines. I'd like to see some dyno results on regular S4/S5 engines that don't have rotors or housings from other series engines, crazy port jobs or intake setups. Basically what I want to know is on my S5 engine with full RB exhaust, Pineapple inserts and S4 intake what kind of gains I would see with the Defined... So I need someone with a similar setup that has more time and money than I do haha.
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I have an RB street-able (collected header) with the secondary pre-silencer removed to a modified length pipe on a factory style cat, to a factory y pipe to OE style Bosal mufflers and it is a night and day difference on my S4 NA from the factory exhaust manifold/pre-silencer.
You are telling me, that if I lengthen the runners a bit on the RB I can squeeze some more from it? I have seen the Defined piece, and it is truly lovely to look at.
You are telling me, that if I lengthen the runners a bit on the RB I can squeeze some more from it? I have seen the Defined piece, and it is truly lovely to look at.
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The big thing that kills the rb header for me is that it needs to go at least 3in before the first bend. This lets the wave stabalize before it turns, at least that is my understanding. Its also too long to be a short runner and too short to be a long runner. And the ports dont match a 6 port housing.
#18
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The big thing that kills the rb header for me is that it needs to go at least 3in before the first bend. This lets the wave stabalize before it turns, at least that is my understanding. Its also too long to be a short runner and too short to be a long runner. And the ports dont match a 6 port housing.
the RB header is made from 44mm ID tubing, and the exit of the engine is 48mm, there is enough meat to port the RB header so that there is at least a cone/taper from the engine into the header.
the RB pipe is the right size, the FC engine is too big. the racing engines have smaller outlets, so the ideal fix is a new exhaust sleeve, but that requires making one, and then rebuilding the engine so its not very practical
the RB pipe is the right size, the FC engine is too big. the racing engines have smaller outlets, so the ideal fix is a new exhaust sleeve, but that requires making one, and then rebuilding the engine so its not very practical
#19
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I have an RB street-able (collected header) with the secondary pre-silencer removed to a modified length pipe on a factory style cat, to a factory y pipe to OE style Bosal mufflers and it is a night and day difference on my S4 NA from the factory exhaust manifold/pre-silencer.
You are telling me, that if I lengthen the runners a bit on the RB I can squeeze some more from it? I have seen the Defined piece, and it is truly lovely to look at.
You are telling me, that if I lengthen the runners a bit on the RB I can squeeze some more from it? I have seen the Defined piece, and it is truly lovely to look at.
If you meant extend the distance between the flange and first bend then yes.
#21
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I think this discussion is about primarily the collected header but the true dual( uncollected) suffers from the same issues with the distance to the first bend and the port mismatch. The uncollected version would be the better one to start with for a long primary setup if one doesn't already have a header. They sell unassembled kits which may be even better if one is going to try to add the 3" to the first bend. No cutting it apart.
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I think this discussion is about primarily the collected header but the true dual( uncollected) suffers from the same issues with the distance to the first bend and the port mismatch. The uncollected version would be the better one to start with for a long primary setup if one doesn't already have a header. They sell unassembled kits which may be even better if one is going to try to add the 3" to the first bend. No cutting it apart.
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