S5 NA to turbo conversion/buildup, $15k
08-10-07, 07:13 PM
#78
There are few options for engine management, none are all that awesome, and all are quite expensive. To give you an idea, there are 2 complete turbo setups that I am aware of...the small greddy kit that costs around 4k and is of questionable quality and is so tiny that power is limited to 290-300rwhp, and the larger mazsport kits with their own engine management that run...get ready...10 grand, and can get you 350-375rwhp.
Looks like I am committed for now; I made a deal last night to buy a complete 6 port/6 speed pullout from a partscar, along with most everything needed (at least, I hope) for the manual swap into my car.
Kevin, about the OMP mod...
About how large is that tank and how long does it last?
I know you suspect it is leaking into the oilpan (a bit) but a general idea would suffice.
About how large is that tank and how long does it last?
I know you suspect it is leaking into the oilpan (a bit) but a general idea would suffice.
Do you have the water path on your lower intake welded off? If so, why?
08-10-07, 09:49 PM
#79
Eats, Sleeps, Dreams Rotary
How do you wire the e-fan to run at a higher speed when the A/C is on? (and does it only run when the car is actually running, not whenever the ignition is on?)
Idling in 99 degree weather does not work so well for my R134A-charged A/C...
...plus, the clutch fan is just so big.
Idling in 99 degree weather does not work so well for my R134A-charged A/C...
...plus, the clutch fan is just so big.
08-10-07, 10:09 PM
#80
you have to use 2 relays, I use the 4 prong PILOT headlight/foglight relays from autozone, but you could use stock or those 5 prong style ones as well.
The stock s5 FC thermoswitch sends a ground signal when it switches on. You run that wire to the low amp side of the first relay. The other low amp terminal goes to the ignition switched output, which I get from the green plug by the leading coil. Then you pull fused battery positive from the enginebay fusebox (I used the blank spot, inserted a new fuse and terminal underneath) and it goes to a terminal on the high amp side of the first relay (and the second relay as well). Then the last terminal on the first relay feeds the low speed wire to the fan, and the fan gets grounded to the frame.
Now, with the ignition on, when the temp switch turns on at 207, the fan kicks on low speed, and when the temp switch kicks off at 195, the fan turns off.
The second relay handles the a/c function. Find the stock a/c relay in the front bumper and find which wire turns on when the a/c compressor kicks on. Splice into it and run it to the low amp side of relay 2. This is a positive wire, so the other low amp side of relay 2 needs to be grounded to the frame. Remember the fused battery positive wire from relay 1 also runs to relay 2 on the high amp side, and the remaining terminal feeds the fan's high speed wire.
Now when the ignition switch and a/c are activated, the fan kicks to high speed as long as the a/c runs, so it constantly pulls 2500cfm through the a/c core. I was first worried about wiring it this way, as this technically overrides the low speed function of relay 1 and the fan motor is not designed to have both wires/speeds fed at the same time. But after I thought about it further, with the fan on high speed, the thermoswitch is unlikely to ever actually be triggered anyway, so that shouldn't cause any conflicts.
The stock s5 FC thermoswitch sends a ground signal when it switches on. You run that wire to the low amp side of the first relay. The other low amp terminal goes to the ignition switched output, which I get from the green plug by the leading coil. Then you pull fused battery positive from the enginebay fusebox (I used the blank spot, inserted a new fuse and terminal underneath) and it goes to a terminal on the high amp side of the first relay (and the second relay as well). Then the last terminal on the first relay feeds the low speed wire to the fan, and the fan gets grounded to the frame.
Now, with the ignition on, when the temp switch turns on at 207, the fan kicks on low speed, and when the temp switch kicks off at 195, the fan turns off.
The second relay handles the a/c function. Find the stock a/c relay in the front bumper and find which wire turns on when the a/c compressor kicks on. Splice into it and run it to the low amp side of relay 2. This is a positive wire, so the other low amp side of relay 2 needs to be grounded to the frame. Remember the fused battery positive wire from relay 1 also runs to relay 2 on the high amp side, and the remaining terminal feeds the fan's high speed wire.
Now when the ignition switch and a/c are activated, the fan kicks to high speed as long as the a/c runs, so it constantly pulls 2500cfm through the a/c core. I was first worried about wiring it this way, as this technically overrides the low speed function of relay 1 and the fan motor is not designed to have both wires/speeds fed at the same time. But after I thought about it further, with the fan on high speed, the thermoswitch is unlikely to ever actually be triggered anyway, so that shouldn't cause any conflicts.
08-11-07, 11:58 PM
#83
I'm a boost creep...
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Auckland, New Zealand
Posts: 15,608
Likes: 0
Received 8 Likes
on
8 Posts
I just don't see the point or advantage in letting the engine temp get so much higher than the normal running temp (180-195degF). I just wondered why you did it.
08-12-07, 12:07 AM
#84
Show me a sub $50, reliable/accurate temp switch that turns on at 195, that will thread directly into the FC waterpump housing, and I will gladly use it.
I used it for simplicity, availability, and ease of installation. This is the stock FC temp switch, after all.
FWIW, this is the switch that FD guys use as an upgrade to their stock temp switch, which turns on at...get ready...226*F.
Also; thermostats don't even open until 180...if you wanted a temp switch that low, there'd be no use in even using one, simply wire it straight to the ignition so it runs all the time. ...Which, btw, I have done before without issue on 89+ models, provided the charging system is in great health. The 88 and older models seem to struggle with even maintaining proper charge on a bone stock car, so I don't recommend any additional amp draw on those.
I used it for simplicity, availability, and ease of installation. This is the stock FC temp switch, after all.
FWIW, this is the switch that FD guys use as an upgrade to their stock temp switch, which turns on at...get ready...226*F.
Also; thermostats don't even open until 180...if you wanted a temp switch that low, there'd be no use in even using one, simply wire it straight to the ignition so it runs all the time. ...Which, btw, I have done before without issue on 89+ models, provided the charging system is in great health. The 88 and older models seem to struggle with even maintaining proper charge on a bone stock car, so I don't recommend any additional amp draw on those.
Last edited by RotaryResurrection; 08-12-07 at 12:13 AM.
08-12-07, 06:05 AM
#85
I'm a boost creep...
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Auckland, New Zealand
Posts: 15,608
Likes: 0
Received 8 Likes
on
8 Posts
http://autospeed.drive.com.au/cms/A_2476/article.html
I used it for simplicity, availability, and ease of installation. This is the stock FC temp switch, after all.
FWIW, this is the switch that FD guys use as an upgrade to their stock temp switch, which turns on at...get ready...226*F.
Also; thermostats don't even open until 180...if you wanted a temp switch that low, there'd be no use in even using one, simply wire it straight to the ignition so it runs all the time.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
