S5 NA to turbo conversion/buildup, $15k
03-14-07, 08:40 PM
#51
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That's my suspension on the car huh? If it is, glad to be part of it =). After selling it to you for a steal, I had a lot more PMs with higher prices. I guess it was just a bad time to sell and you were there to capitalize. Looks great though. Thumbs up.
03-15-07, 12:57 AM
#53
I'm a boost creep...
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Originally Posted by 13b4me
I would think the ribs on an N/A would actually be beneficial in atomizing the incoming air...
Assuming you mean fuel, whatever minor effect the ribs might have would be long gone by the time the air has passed through the TB and manifold to reach the injectors.
03-15-07, 10:16 AM
#54
Eats, Sleeps, Dreams Rotary
My harbor blue S5 wishes it was as hot as your harbor blue S5.
...but it's driver has no time or money, and lacks severely in the effort department...
...that, and it takes enough time to just *fix* it...
I take it the car had an *impeccable* undercarriage (rust/dent-wise) to begin with?
...but it's driver has no time or money, and lacks severely in the effort department...
...that, and it takes enough time to just *fix* it...
I take it the car had an *impeccable* undercarriage (rust/dent-wise) to begin with?
03-21-07, 02:53 PM
#56
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
Originally Posted by NZConvertible
Atomising the air? Assuming you mean fuel, whatever minor effect the ribs might have would be long gone by the time the air has passed through the TB and manifold to reach the injectors.
Assuming you mean fuel, whatever minor effect the ribs might have would be long gone by the time the air has passed through the TB and manifold to reach the injectors.
03-21-07, 09:07 PM
#59
Not Even Foo
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man, i can't stop looking at this thread.
this car is one the best stock lookin cars i've seen.
mad props to RotaryResurrection.
i hope my N/A to Turbo swap becomes as successful as yours.
just gotta wait for my engine to be rebuilt.
good stuff man.
this car is one the best stock lookin cars i've seen.
mad props to RotaryResurrection.
i hope my N/A to Turbo swap becomes as successful as yours.
just gotta wait for my engine to be rebuilt.
good stuff man.
03-21-07, 09:23 PM
#60
in between builds
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this car is great it sparked a ton of ideas for my S4/Jspec FC not saying i'm stealing ideas it just kicked my brain into creation mode thanks man this thread is great
03-22-07, 01:20 AM
#61
I'm a boost creep...
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Originally Posted by 13b4me
Yea atomizing probably wasn't the best terminology to use. I just figured Mazda designed it that way to create turbulence.
The duct has to be flexible because the airbox is bolted to the chassis but the engine moves, hence the corrugations.
08-09-07, 03:59 PM
#63
Great work! The blue looks very nice with those wheels. Not normally a fan of the fat-spoke look but it works very well on this car.
Make sure to send me a PM so this thread will be added to the archived project thread.
One thing you might want to watch for with the metering oil pump mod is that some plastics are dissolved by two stroke oil. I think I remember someone in the 1st gen forum using their cold start tank and then having it turn mushy in a few weeks.
Make sure to send me a PM so this thread will be added to the archived project thread.
One thing you might want to watch for with the metering oil pump mod is that some plastics are dissolved by two stroke oil. I think I remember someone in the 1st gen forum using their cold start tank and then having it turn mushy in a few weeks.
Originally Posted by RotaryResurrection
Aaron,
I have also been told that some plastic tanks won't hold 2 cycle. I dont believe the oem plastic tanks will have a problem.
When I installed the FMIC I realized the stock overflow tank would no longer be useful as there's nowhere to mount it. Then I remembered that early 86 models had the overflow tank over by the leading coil, so I set out to find one of those oddball overflows.
When I finally did, it was one somebody had been using for a 2 cycle reservoir, had a nipple in the side and all. No telling how long it had been full of 2 cycle, but it was long enough that the tank had a blue tint to it, and it was strong as new. I just removed the nipple and plugged the hole and rinsed it out to use it for my coolant overflow.
I will of course update the thread if I find any issues with the subzero tank's use. If I were worried about anything, it'd be the stability of the plastic nipple on the OMP, which is just a vacuum nipple from autozone.
I have also been told that some plastic tanks won't hold 2 cycle. I dont believe the oem plastic tanks will have a problem.
When I installed the FMIC I realized the stock overflow tank would no longer be useful as there's nowhere to mount it. Then I remembered that early 86 models had the overflow tank over by the leading coil, so I set out to find one of those oddball overflows.
When I finally did, it was one somebody had been using for a 2 cycle reservoir, had a nipple in the side and all. No telling how long it had been full of 2 cycle, but it was long enough that the tank had a blue tint to it, and it was strong as new. I just removed the nipple and plugged the hole and rinsed it out to use it for my coolant overflow.
I will of course update the thread if I find any issues with the subzero tank's use. If I were worried about anything, it'd be the stability of the plastic nipple on the OMP, which is just a vacuum nipple from autozone.
I do go through more 2 cycle than one would think normal...over a long period of time (1-2k miles) my crankcase oil level does rise slightly so I believe I am getting a slight bit of cross contamination. I suppose the jb weld "wall" I created is not sealed 100% at the edges and is letting a little seepage by. A better way would probably be to have a small aluminum plate welded into the passage to prevent seepage.
Also a few changes took place on the car itself since this writeup. I've went with an escort 2 speed e-fan, triggered by the s5 FC turbo thermoswitch (low speed) and/or a/c activation (high speed). This helped the a/c function FAR better than it did with the clutch fan, especially at low speed.
I added water/meth injection and modified a 10th anniversary headlight washer fluid reservoir to fit behind the s5 fog light in the drivers side fender where the bottle goes.
I also added a NTK/AFX wideband and mounted it above my turnsignal switch.
The exhaust/DP cutout didn't work as advertised...it was a constant exhaust leak even when closed, and it annoyed me far too much to leave it alone. I wound up removing it and running a straight 3" downpipe/midpipe instead. Even so, the greddy catback keeps the noise under control and the tone is incredibly deep for a straight exhaust rotary. It does drone quite a bit around 3krpm, and it seems to keep me from shooting any flames for some reason.
My t04E started smoking so I removed it and currently have the stock turbo in place. I also removed the FCON at the same time since it was unnecessary with the stock turbo, and have since decided to go GT35R with the AP Engineering Power FC and probably a set of 1600 secondaries.
08-09-07, 10:36 PM
#68
the rx-8 was a lady owned, commuter 111k original mile automatic 04 (the most problem ridden models to date) that had been in a light wreck and was repaired locally. It has a few small issues and the airbags were deployed and not replaced...so the light is on in the dash, and the passenger dash has a patch sewed over it (looks like a padded glovebox door, not too bad). I picked it up for 10,500 out the door including taxes. The car is dog slow and is a bit weak on starting, but never floods and runs normally going down the road. I've gotten 23mpg out of it on the highway. For stock, the bose sound system is pretty kick *** too, and the car is a sweet daily driver that my little boy fits into well.
I took it and had it repainted, tinted windows, along with adding the appearance package/ground effects, springs, new tires, exhaust tips, and repainted rims (they were scratched and faded). I wound up putting FC 89-91 aero mirrors on it because the stockers are kinda shitty looking and also hard to see out of...the FC mirrors fit like they came on the car, literally, and look kickass.
Threw some new potenza s-03s that tirerack had for $129 each on it. I painted the rusty brake rotors/calipers that everyone bitches about on those cars...because the wheels are so large and "open" the rusty brakes make the car look bad. Also put on a midpipe that probably made it slower, but the main cat was badly clogged and was generating a lot of heat.
I am still contemplating which direction to go with it...6 port/6 speed swap, or some sort of older 13b turbo swap (rew, etc.) or maybe if a good enough deal on a clip pops up, a 20B swap. Or I might just drive it until it lets go.
I have premixed it since I bought it and it helped starting a little bit, but you can tell the engine is tired.
I took it and had it repainted, tinted windows, along with adding the appearance package/ground effects, springs, new tires, exhaust tips, and repainted rims (they were scratched and faded). I wound up putting FC 89-91 aero mirrors on it because the stockers are kinda shitty looking and also hard to see out of...the FC mirrors fit like they came on the car, literally, and look kickass.
Threw some new potenza s-03s that tirerack had for $129 each on it. I painted the rusty brake rotors/calipers that everyone bitches about on those cars...because the wheels are so large and "open" the rusty brakes make the car look bad. Also put on a midpipe that probably made it slower, but the main cat was badly clogged and was generating a lot of heat.
I am still contemplating which direction to go with it...6 port/6 speed swap, or some sort of older 13b turbo swap (rew, etc.) or maybe if a good enough deal on a clip pops up, a 20B swap. Or I might just drive it until it lets go.
I have premixed it since I bought it and it helped starting a little bit, but you can tell the engine is tired.
08-10-07, 01:53 AM
#69
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ahh sweeet. question though, when u rebuilt ur engine. did u need a hydraulic press? i'm hoping not so i don't spend as much money on mine haha. and does anyone think i could find a blown TII engine i could buy? or should i just go to a wrecking yard?
08-10-07, 01:56 AM
#70
you only need a press to change rotor and/or main bearings...in a half decently maintained FC engine this is normally not necessary, and in fact used bearings in good shape are preferable to new ones IMO.
All you really need to rebuild a rotary is a parts washer tank (or some tupperware bins) and a 5 gallon bucket, if you want to be totally honest about it.
All you really need to rebuild a rotary is a parts washer tank (or some tupperware bins) and a 5 gallon bucket, if you want to be totally honest about it.
08-10-07, 09:37 AM
#75
