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Car has been sitting since August due to rusted fuel lines. I was planning on fixing this a couple months ago, but had a number of setbacks thus delaying this job. Hopefully, I'll get to this early next month. Car hasn't seen many miles this year.
The steel fuel lines, next to the left frame rail, have rusted and are leaking where they turn upward between the floor pan and rear sub-frame. I suppose that's because the lines are thinner on that outside radius bend. Not looking forward to dropping the rear sub-frame, but during the process I'll take advantage of the situation and replace some rear suspension parts and bushings.
Actually, the leak began a couple years ago with low pressure (return) fuel line dripping intermittently. It dripped so slightly that the gas would usually evaporate before hitting the ground. Then, this past August, the high pressure (supply) fuel line rusted and began dripping fuel excessively. At that point, I didn't want to risk driving the car and it has been sitting since. Unfortunately, these two 8mm fuel lines are NLA from Mazda.
I originally bought a coil of 5/16" (close enough to 8mm by 0.0025" difference) bare steel fuel line from Summit Racing. Then somebody on this forum recommended using copper-nickel alloy tubing. They said it was softer material, making it easier to work with, and was inherently corrosion resistant. So, I bought a 25' roll of NiCopp tubing from Summit. Just recently, I received an informational email from Holley and found on their website an even better tubing. That tubing was called steel olive, which is steel tubing coated with a PVF corrosion resistant coating (https://www.holley.com/products/plum...ts/ZZ651625ERL). So, this tubing should hopefully outlast the remaining lifespan of my car.
As the old saying goes, "do the job right, the first time". So, I bought bending tools (https://www.arestool.com/products/3-...-bender-pliers), a tube beader (https://www.grahamtool.com/tube-bead...e-beading-tool) and a tube straightener (https://www.ebay.com/itm/15485379753...3ABFBM_LyemfBi). The tube straightener is similar to the one sold by Earl's Performance, but a lot cheaper. Probably, overkill for this simple job. The tools set me back a few bucks, but you need the right tools to do the job correctly. There are four lines that run side-by-side next to the left frame rail. There are the two 8mm hard lines (supply & return), which I'll need to fabricate. Then there are the smaller (5mm ???) fuel vapor line and rear brake line. I bought these two lines, too. The rear brake line (FB01-45-360C) is still available. The fuel vapor line (FB01-45-711B), which was the last in stock in the US at time of purchase. Most of the fuel line plastic hold down clips were available through Amayama and the only one they didn't have was available through Atkins. Not sure if I'll need all these clips, but I want all the parts on-hand once I start this job.
Since, I have to drop the rear sub-frame, I'm planning on changing some rear suspension parts and bushings. I replaced the rear trailing arm bushings (front, outer) with PU about 20 years ago. I'm going to replace the PU bushings with the stock Mazda rubber bushings. I'm aware that spherical bearings are available (e.g., Parts Shop MAX, FC Trailing Arm Forward Bushings, Spherical Bearing Conversion Pair, SKU: FCTAFB) for the trailing arms, but don't know how well these would hold-up when exposed to the elements. Not that we get much snow here in northern VA, but sometimes it does happen.
I'm going to replace the sub-frame bushings and lateral links with stock Mazda parts. The rubber boots on the lateral links are shot and I'm sure the ball joints won't meet the FSM spec. I'm planning on installing a few parts that I've bought from Parts Shop MAX. These are:
FC Trailing Arm Rear Upper Bushings Pair (SKU: FCTARUB),
FC Toe Steering Eliminator Bushings Set (SKU: FCTEB), and
FC RX7 Trailing Arm Camber Links (SKU: FCTACL)
I installed PU rear toe eliminator bushings in 2001. I'm planning on replacing these with the aluminum ones that I bought from Parts Shop MAX. I tried installing the above camber links this past August, but couldn't get them in because of the thick center portion. Unlike the stock Mazda links that have a rod connecting the two ends, these a links are uniform and were hitting on the trailing arm. I didn't take any photos, so sort of hard to explain with words. Anybody have any experience with any of these Parts Shop MAX parts (or similar parts) or the spherical bearings? Any helpful comments and/or suggestions?
I have all the pbm rear stuff. Had a shop take out the oem rear subframe bushings, did everything else in my garage on jackstands.
Installed the rear camber links without issue. Not sure of what you mean by the thick part hitting the trailing arm.
Why not give part shop max a call for install questions? They’re cool dudes.
Sorry, I should have snapped a photo during my attempted install. The center of the link (https://store.partsshopmax.com/shop/...le/FCTACL.html) is thicker than the stock Mazda link and was interfering with the mounting to the trailing arm. Maybe it's because the car was on the lift causing the suspension to hang in the fully extended position. Maybe I should have used an under hoist jack stand to raise the suspension. I'll give it a second try once the subframe is off the car.
Yes you should move the trailing arms around to get the proper angle to get the camber links to slip in, so yes remove the wheels, sway bar links so you can move the trailing arms around.
yes I have the spherical bushings in the rear subframe, the camber links, Battle version lateral toe links (basically same thing as pbm), mazdatrix main camberlink, pbm coils (the stiffer dampener ones), 8kg front springs, swift 6k rear springs, pbm front diff mount, pbm diff risers, pbm rear subframe risers, racing beat rear sway bar with spherical sway bar links.
fwiw, front is energy suspension control arm bushings (still need to pony up for the pbm front arms and knuckles, and some modified diy knuckles, energy suspension ball joint.
I love the rear setup. I can definitely tell there’s no more weird bushing binding and it feels smooth as the coilovers are the only things articulating (kind of weird to explain). But I have friends say the same thing when they ride in my car.
Last edited by DR_Knight; Oct 30, 2023 at 05:48 PM.
Reason: I can’t spell
I am working on the same things here. I replaced all bushings in the rear with OEM though. I am curious about the aftermarket parts as I have a spare subframe and rear hubs to try the parts on.
The evap system lines are the same as the brake lines..3/16, I believe. I was told an end flare is suffecient on the evap and fuel lines. I really hope this was correct. I used Ni-Cop for the brakes and the same steel lines you have for the fuel lines, the olive is OEM as fas a I can tell from my lines. I should have used a bender for the steel lines. The bend radius used for those lines are pretty close to max on those bends by the tank if I had to guess. Be carefull not to scuff the fuel lines, the coating is rather thin. I almost ordered one of the last steel brake lines to the rear from Mazda, 5 left when I checked. 2 in Georgia, 2 in Texas and one on the west coast. I didn't expect it to survive shipping. All of the rear brake lines come out easy enough though and bending copper is fairly easy.
I used OEM for the camber links. I am assuming you mean the part on the link that the bolt goes through? Perhaps one side is thicker/wider than the other, try flipping it over. The outside diameter of the link is different from one side to the other on the OEM ones. I never checked the width though.
I am working on the same things here. I replaced all bushings in the rear with OEM though. I am curious about the aftermarket parts as I have a spare subframe and rear hubs to try the parts on.
The evap system lines are the same as the brake lines..3/16, I believe. I was told an end flare is suffecient on the evap and fuel lines. I really hope this was correct. I used Ni-Cop for the brakes and the same steel lines you have for the fuel lines, the olive is OEM as fas a I can tell from my lines. I should have used a bender for the steel lines. The bend radius used for those lines are pretty close to max on those bends by the tank if I had to guess. Be carefull not to scuff the fuel lines, the coating is rather thin. I almost ordered one of the last steel brake lines to the rear from Mazda, 5 left when I checked. 2 in Georgia, 2 in Texas and one on the west coast. I didn't expect it to survive shipping. All of the rear brake lines come out easy enough though and bending copper is fairly easy.
I used OEM for the camber links. I am assuming you mean the part on the link that the bolt goes through? Perhaps one side is thicker/wider than the other, try flipping it over. The outside diameter of the link is different from one side to the other on the OEM ones. I never checked the width though.
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Let us know how things work out.
I ordered the brake and evap lines from a local Mazda dealer and picked them up when they arrived. So, I didn't pay a penny for shipping. Shipping costs would have been very high if I ordered them online.
Yeah, both the brake and evap lines are the same size. I've read on web that some people do an end flare or double flare. So, I don't think you'll have any problems.
I was wondering about possible scratching of the PVF coating. Maybe I'll wrap some masking tape around the line at the bending points.
Yeah, I bought the Parts MAX camber links. They look symmetric to me. I have Eibach Pro-Kit progressive rate springs on my car. They supposedly lower the car by about 3/4", which throws my rear camber off. Camber is about -2.2 deg and spec is -1.2 to -0.2 deg. The links should, according to the Parts MAX guy, increase my camber by about +1 degree or so putting my car back within spec. So, we'll see what happens.
One of those other parts that I bought replaces the rubber bushing at top of the hub. It eliminates the fiber washer too. Since I have rear steer eliminator bushings, these stock rubber bushings are unnecessary in the hub.
Probably will be a couple weeks before I start working on the car. I'll keep you posted on my progress.
the trick with the rear control arm bushings was finding the right shaped thing to press them in, once i did that it was really easy.
mine were really knackered, so they almost fell out on their own, and i just used a nut and bolt to press them in.
subframe bushings were the same, you can hammer and chisel the edge to get it out. putting it back is possible, you need a bigger bolt, and i've found the old diff stop washers are pretty good as press dies
the trick with the rear control arm bushings was finding the right shaped thing to press them in, once i did that it was really easy.
mine were really knackered, so they almost fell out on their own, and i just used a nut and bolt to press them in.
subframe bushings were the same, you can hammer and chisel the edge to get it out. putting it back is possible, you need a bigger bolt, and i've found the old diff stop washers are pretty good as press dies
Sometimes it's a challenge to find an appropriately sized die to press in these bushings. I usually use a socket to press in normal sized bushings. The subframe bushings are pretty large. I'll need to see what I can rig up for the subframe bushings.
Sometimes it's a challenge to find an appropriately sized die to press in these bushings. I usually use a socket to press in normal sized bushings. The subframe bushings are pretty large. I'll need to see what I can rig up for the subframe bushings.
the subframe is easy, the Diff stop washer is perfect
the control arms wanted a kind of odd shaped thing, but the press fit wasn't tight at all.
The nut, all thread, washer thing works very well. I never thought of a thick single washer instead of the sockets etc, good idea there. I used a 3/8" all thread, 1' long with three nuts and a stacked pyrmid washer setup. I recommed the 1/2" instead, I trashed the threads of the 3/8". The cups were either deep sockets or a ball joint accessory set and a ball joint removal tool rented from the parts store. Some of the bushings do go in easy with the ball joint tool or a big C-clamp, but it isn't needed really. I cleaned the mating surfaces of the large bushings with a barrel sander connected to a drill. The old bushing material was rust fused in there pretty well for the big bushings. After the surface was smooth, I lubed with anti-seize on both parts, the excess squezed out. Maybe not the correct way to do it but it was surprisingly easy. Just make sure the bushing, bolts etc are very straight. I did all by hand, if you find is getting way to tight, realign and try again.
I struggled just a little with the OEM differential bushing. The surround is plastic and it flexed when not alaigned perfectly. The others would self correct a bit if not perfectly straight. They still need to be as straight as the eye will allow though. I am assuming some hydraulic presses would majorly damage parts or send the parts flying across the room if done wrong.
Now you have quite a few options, best of luck with the project. I will follow this closely as some threads here on this forum get into arguments and are hard to read. There are many ways to skin a deer, I get it. I just wish people would just agree to disagree. I do have the rear steer bushings installed but decided to just go OEM for the rest. There was just to much back and forth arguing to get a clear answer on which ones can be solid with the eliminator bushings. If I get money burning a hole in my pocket, I will build the spare sub frame with adjustable links, pillow *****, toe links etc if any are available that won't rust, wear out easily,or seize up.
The nut, all thread, washer thing works very well. I never thought of a thick single washer instead of the sockets etc, good idea there. I used a 3/8" all thread, 1' long with three nuts and a stacked pyrmid washer setup. I recommed the 1/2" instead, I trashed the threads of the 3/8". The cups were either deep sockets or a ball joint accessory set and a ball joint removal tool rented from the parts store. Some of the bushings do go in easy with the ball joint tool or a big C-clamp, but it isn't needed really. I cleaned the mating surfaces of the large bushings with a barrel sander connected to a drill. The old bushing material was rust fused in there pretty well for the big bushings. After the surface was smooth, I lubed with anti-seize on both parts, the excess squezed out. Maybe not the correct way to do it but it was surprisingly easy. Just make sure the bushing, bolts etc are very straight. I did all by hand, if you find is getting way to tight, realign and try again.
I struggled just a little with the OEM differential bushing. The surround is plastic and it flexed when not alaigned perfectly. The others would self correct a bit if not perfectly straight. They still need to be as straight as the eye will allow though. I am assuming some hydraulic presses would majorly damage parts or send the parts flying across the room if done wrong.
Now you have quite a few options, best of luck with the project. I will follow this closely as some threads here on this forum get into arguments and are hard to read. There are many ways to skin a deer, I get it. I just wish people would just agree to disagree. I do have the rear steer bushings installed but decided to just go OEM for the rest. There was just to much back and forth arguing to get a clear answer on which ones can be solid with the eliminator bushings. If I get money burning a hole in my pocket, I will build the spare sub frame with adjustable links, pillow *****, toe links etc if any are available that won't rust, wear out easily,or seize up.
I agree that you need to have the bushings well aligned in the bore before attempting to press them into place by whatever means you choose. Also, as you noted, it's essential that all mating surfaces be as clean as possible and slightly lubed prior to installing the bushings. I will have a hydraulic press available to use. A number of years ago, I did use a hydraulic press to install the differential bushings, and they went in quite easily. You just need to be careful that everything is aligned when starting to press the bushing into the bore. With a hydraulic press you also need to find the appropriate jigs the press the work piece into place. Sometimes it can be hard finding the correct jigs especially for large bushings. So, we'll see how it goes once I begin this project.
A bit late at getting to this job, but I finally had the car towed into the shop yesterday. I decided to drop the rear subfame and leave the differential intact. I started disassembly yesterday and was ready to drop the rear subframe today, but ran into a problem. The bracket on the subframe that attaches to the rear differential mount seems to be stuck to the mount. This bracket has two slotted bolt holes. The two nuts have been removed and the subframe should be able to be dropped. However, like I mentioned above this bracket seems to be stuck to the rubber differential mount. I've been spraying it with penetrating oil and will try again tomorrow. Any ideas on how to free this bracket from the mount?
Also, one of the sliding steel sleeves at the top of the hub is stuck. This sleeve is at the mounting point with the fiber washer. I've been spraying this sleeve with penetrating oil and pounding the hell out of it with a hammer and chisel, but it just won't budge. I remember in the past these things were sometimes a PITA to loosen, but this one is a big PITA. Any suggestions how to move this sleeve?
Welcome back, it is never late unless you never do the work.
This is a tricky one, the mount on the sub-frame that is stuck.... In the center??? If i remember correctly, there is a plate that keeps all of that in place. I would jack up the differential near where the mating surface is to insure that there is any binding between the diff, bolts and frame. If then the bolts and so forth do not feel loose, I would just remove as much hardware as possible. If it is stuck, it is still binding somewhere or is fused together.
As far as the rear hub is concerned... that was a bit tricky. That sleeve is pressed in there and I only moved it after taking the hub off. I just broke the fiber washer and removed the hub. The washers are available at Atkins for $5 a piece. I really hope someone can chime in on this one, I really want to know as well.
Photos are always helpful. Unfortunately, I didn't take any, but was able to swipe these off Ebay.
The bracket on the rear subframe (as shown in the above photo) with the "U" shape bolt slots is stuck to the rubber diff mount. I have removed these two nuts and everything holding the subframe to the car's chassis. I've been spraying the diff mount with penetrating oil and tried prying them apart but to no avail. It's tight spot making it hard to get any tools up in there. Any suggestions on how to free this mount?
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The arm on the hub (bottom of photo) mounts to the rear trailing arm at the top. The steel sleeve (https://www.atkinsrotary.com/86-92-R...1-26-221A.html) in the arm (right in the photo) should slide outwards with some friendly persuasion. This sleeve on my driver's side appears to be seized and won't move enough preventing me from removing the hub. I've been spraying this with penetrating oil and pounding it with a punch and big hammer, and I still cannot get it move. I've had these hubs off several times before to replace the RWB's and somtimes they were a bitch to remove but never like this one. Anybody ever have a problem like this? Any ideas how to free it?
for the diff, there is a washer on the diff mount nuts that will keep it in place. you need to pop the washer thing out.
unbolting the mount from the diff is a legal move too
Ok, thanks. That's what I thought. I'll check it out more carefully. It's hard to see up in that tight area. My plan B is to remove the diff too, but I'm trying to avoid that.
I dropped the rear subframe yesterday thanks to j9fd3s's suggestion. It was the plate washer that was preventing it from easy removal. I dissembled the subframe and was able to remove the left hub assemble (due to the sleeve) once I got the unit on the work bench.
The left rear wheel bearing had some play in it. So I replaced it with a new Koyo that I had at home.
I also replaced the Mazdatrix delrin toe eliminator with a pair that I bought from partsshopmax.com (FC Toe Steering Eliminator Bushings Set (SKU: FCTEB)). I started removing the Mazdatrix bushing on the right side, but ran out of time today. Will get back to that next Tuesday when the shop reopens.
I also bought from partsshopmax.com the FC Trailing Arm Rear Upper Bushings Pair (SKU: FCTARUB) (https://store.partsshopmax.com/shop/...g/FCTARUB.html). So. my question is about removing the old bushings from the trailing arms. I have access to a 25-ton hydraulic press, but it's sometimes very difficult to position these parts (i.e., trailing arms) in the press. What's a good method to remove the old bushings? Vice and a couple appropriately sized sockets? Two sockets and a threaded rod?
Also, I've got new Mazda subframe bushings. I supposed the best way to remove these by torching them? Regarding installing the new bushings. It would be difficult to position this piece in a press yet alone finding the appropriate fixture. The bushing measures about 3-1/2" by 3-1/4" perpendicular diameters, the smaller being at the slotted side, If I recall, a couple folks (j9fd3s and somebody else) mentioned that they used the stop washer, lower arm (FB43-28-845B & 855B) and a threaded rod with appropriate sized washers, and used that to press them in. So, that worked okay?
I also replaced the Mazdatrix delrin toe eliminator with a pair that I bought from partsshopmax.com (FC Toe Steering Eliminator Bushings Set (SKU: FCTEB)). I started removing the Mazdatrix bushing on the right side, but ran out of time today. Will get back to that next Tuesday when the shop reopens.
I have an extra set of hubs, I will do the same to those later. I am not convinced the delrin will last on my current ones. Adding longer studs for a slight spacer for the rear wheels too. That is awesome that you know how to do the bearings, I an super intimidated considering the cost of a busted hub.
also bought from partsshopmax.com the FC Trailing Arm Rear Upper Bushings Pair (SKU: FCTARUB) (https://store.partsshopmax.com/shop/...g/FCTARUB.html). So. my question is about removing the old bushings from the trailing arms. I have access to a 25-ton hydraulic press, but it's sometimes very difficult to position these parts (i.e., trailing arms) in the press. What's a good method to remove the old bushings? Vice and a couple appropriately sized sockets? Two sockets and a threaded rod?
#1 3/8 threaded rod, washers and sockets work just fine. About a one foot piece will work. A large C-clamp, vice or a large ball joint tool will work probably too. My vise was to small sadly... If you don't have big enough sockets, a ball joint tool sleeve on one side works very well.
#2 Those, I drilled I cut out the center, I then used a chisel to get under the metal ring. The first arm the I did, I missed a metal ring. There is no lip on the ends of the arm. You can probably just hammer out the bushing by getting under the ring if you want to try.
As for the bushings in the sub-frame. Melting the rubber works fine and then hammer out the steel ring. I drilled out, then cut out the center and then either chiseled out the metal ring and/or put a slight cut in the ring to give the metal a weak spot to break/split to help release pressure prior to chiseling. The center section puts a lot of tension on the steel ring. Releasing that is the key to easy work. Not that cutting rubber is easy with a reciprocating saw. Take your pick, the rubber does smell and shouldn't be inhaled while burning. Also worth mentioning, does heat destroy tempered metal? It very well could with hot enough temps.
Getting the new ones in took the all thread, washers and ball joint tool sleeves to finish. Clean out the sub frame hole with a sanding wheel and add some lube to the two parts going together. These need to go in perfectly straight. It took me quite a few tries. The bushing kept slipping on the one side and not the other. Perhaps with help or a good jig, this can be done on a press. You can probably skip the lube, I used anti-seize, these won't rust in place ever again.
If this become too difficult or you don't want to by the all thread try a ball joint tool or a large c-clamp.
You can ditch your pillow ***** too if you haven't already. Those are in by a snap ring and slide right out. Those are available as solid mounts.
I see you still have to stock toe rods? I am still looking for a durable set. One of my stock ones are very solid, the other one shows some wear.
Also, if you have the time or money, getting an adjustable camber link will help with slight camer adjustment if needed. It isn't a great solution but it does work, even though it doesn't adjust it evenly on both sides.
The left RWB that I replaced was was a Mazda bearing p/n FB01-26-151A. I installed that bearing on Mar 2015 and it had about 56.5k miles on it. I've typically been getting about 100k miles on my RWB's. The new bearing was also a Mazda bearing (Koyo) p/n FB01-26-151C. Hopefully, this one will have a longer lifespan. It's not that difficult replacing RWB's, but you need a hydraulic press.
It was Dec 2001 when I installed the Mazdatrix rear toe (DTSS) eliminator Delrin bushings. The appeared to be still pretty solid when I removed them. We will see how the partsshopmax.com aluminum bushings work out.
Ref. #1: I'll try the socket and threaded rod method. I've been using a 3/8" x 1 ft. threaded rod, but bought a 1/2" x 1 ft. threaded rod yesterday. It'll be nice to get rid of those original bushings with the fiber washers.
Ref. #2: I've been running the PU bushings on the rear trailing arms. Plan on removing the PU bushings and going back to the original setup. I bought Mazda stock bushings p/n FB01-28-460. I'll try the socket and threaded method on these. If all else fails, I always have the hydraulic press as a backup.
I'll probably try burning out the rear subframe bushings with a propane torch. The propane flame doesn't get that hot, relatively speaking, so I don't think it'll affect the metallurgy of the subframe. Of course, I'll do this in a well ventilated room with garage door open. Will definitely clean and lube the surfaces before installing the new bushing. I'll try using the 1/2" threaded rod to press in the new bushings. As a backup, I've ordered a 3-1/2" NPS Pipe Welding Steel Collar Sch 40 Wall 4" Long off Ebay. Will try using this with the hydraulic press, if all else fails.
My original pillow ball bearings show no signs of wear. Surprisingly, these bearings are still very tight after 34+ years of service.
I installed new lateral links, both sides, in Apr 2003. The ball joints in the originals were quite loose. The lateral links that are in there now have dust boots that are weather worn with multiple cracks. I bought Mazda replacement links off Amayama. So, I'll be installing these two new lateral links.
I also bought from partsshopmax.com the FC RX7 Trailing Arm Camber Links (SKU: FCTACL). My camber was out of spec by a degree or two. Hopefully, these will bring my camber back within spec.
Also, I've got new Mazda subframe bushings. I supposed the best way to remove these by torching them? Regarding installing the new bushings. It would be difficult to position this piece in a press yet alone finding the appropriate fixture. The bushing measures about 3-1/2" by 3-1/4" perpendicular diameters, the smaller being at the slotted side, If I recall, a couple folks (j9fd3s and somebody else) mentioned that they used the stop washer, lower arm (FB43-28-845B & 855B) and a threaded rod with appropriate sized washers, and used that to press them in. So, that worked okay?
first make sure you know which way the bushing should be oriented
burning them out would work. Mazda has you drill holes around the bushing part until it falls apart
i've had luck with taking a hammer and chisel and just hitting the lip of the bushing. if the bushing is in decent shape, you need to go around the circumference and work it out. in my blue car they were so petrified, they almost fell out.
getting the new ones in, i take some hose clamps and compress the bushing as much as possible, as it goes in you remove them. either use a hammer, or easier you need a bolt and some beefy washers, the stop washers are the exact size, and you can just tighten the bolt and it goes in. a press would work too, although its kind of an awkward assembly.
first make sure you know which way the bushing should be oriented
burning them out would work. Mazda has you drill holes around the bushing part until it falls apart
i've had luck with taking a hammer and chisel and just hitting the lip of the bushing. if the bushing is in decent shape, you need to go around the circumference and work it out. in my blue car they were so petrified, they almost fell out.
getting the new ones in, i take some hose clamps and compress the bushing as much as possible, as it goes in you remove them. either use a hammer, or easier you need a bolt and some beefy washers, the stop washers are the exact size, and you can just tighten the bolt and it goes in. a press would work too, although its kind of an awkward assembly.
Ok, thanks for the info. I'll try the hammer & chisel first. If that doesn't work, than I'll burn it out. Ahh, that's a good idea with the hose clamp. I'll give that a try. At least, it'll compress the bushing making it easier to install. Thanks!
Thanks!