mmmappajoos

Hi,

I brought my GSL-SE into a custom alignment shop today and they showed me that my left tension rod(?) bushing is toast and that my entire rear axle is slanted so the car won’t be able to be aligned correctly until several bushings are replaced and adjustable trailing arms are installed. The car is now “crab walking” and pulls a bit less to the left though the steering is roughly in order.

I would like to know if anyone would be willing to guide me through how to go about this since I’m also going to be installing shorter rear springs whenever they come.

I want to replace the bushings but I was told that polyurethane bushings for the trailing arms can cause binding yet the Energy Suspension bushings are the only ones I can find. Is there somewhere I can find rubber bushings?

For the trailing arms themselves, I’m confused whether the trailing/control arms/4 links are all the same thing.

I see that T3 sells upper and lower trailing arms. Is there anywhere else I might be able to buy these from? I haven’t really had the greatest experiences ordering from them. Also, would both the upper and lower arms need to be replaced?

I apologize for the influx of questions, I just want to make sure I get this right because I have a track record of ordering the wrong parts :/

Thanks,
Appa

GSLSEforme

There's no doubt after all these years your car will need to have suspension bushings and parts replaced. Not certain the custom alignment shop is where you want to take your car. A shop that is familiar with 1st gens would be more preferable. "VERY" few of these cars need adjustable links to rectify the way they drive. IMO,slightly bent parts in rear suspension is more likely responsible for this condition. I think this shop is trying to upsell more than needed and may not be addressing actual needs.

Couple questions,did the shop in question give you a readout/print out of current alignment specs they based their diagnosis on,can you post that here so we can see how they came to their conclusions for needed work?

What are your intentions with this car and are you able to do some of your own work?

Have any pics of car,particularly of worn parts?

7aull

iTrader: (2)

AFAIK all 4 rear arms are avai NEW from Mazda, with the bushings built-in (the only way these are available).
Yes control arms, rear links, its all the same thing.
So if you are modestly handy you can swap in new ones which will set up the rear end (shocks notwithstanding) back to new-spec.
Avai at Mazdatrix.com or thru your dealer (I buy from Mazdatrix)

Stu A
80GS
AZ

Maxwedge

iTrader: (1)

Yes, as said, the rear links are all available new from Mazda. This would be the best, simplest way to restore the factory ride and handling. I have adjustable lower links and wouldn't recommend them unless you really need them. Much, much simpler to just put a perfect length factory link in. I wouldn't use poly bushings anywhere in the rear (front end would give the expected poly benefits, but not the rear). I can also tell you from personal experience not to use the T3 Upper rear links. Lowers are good, if you really need them.

When you say "tension rod" I think of the front suspension tension rods which would definetly mess up your alignment if the bushings rotted away. I know Energy suspension sells a L/R set for about $30 and I'd imagine OE Mazda bushings are available as well.

LongDuck

For a street driven car, poly in the front and rubber in the rear. This gives the best ride comfort and agreeable handling in a roadcar even driven by an enthusiast. The suspension geometry in the rear is designed for OEM rubber busings in the trailing links, though you could go with poly bushings on the Watts Link joints with a moderate increase in noise. I went with new stock rubber Watts Links and don't regret the decision. It's about $600 in parts to do OEM new on the entire rear end, but you'll be good for another 150k miles.

mmmappajoos

I'm looking for rear suspension bushings but the only ones I can find are poly. Where could I find rubber ones?

Edit: I've looked on Racing Beat, Mazdatrix, Banzai, etc.

Maxwedge

iTrader: (1)

They dont sell just the bushings. You have to buy new links, which have the new bushings in them. Any old links will have old, hardened bushings which hurt suspension flex. You cant buy just the rubber bushings.

LongDuck

OEM arms will have the rubber bushings Vulcanized in place which is a chemical/mechanical process that bonds the rubber to the metal for better durability. This is part of why it's so hard to remove the stock bushings from the metal link arms when people try to replace with poly bushings. Also, part of why the installation procedure is very specific about NOT tightening anything down until the vehicle is lowered to ride height, as it will stress those Vulcanized bushings if not held in a neutral stress position when tightened. The OEM arms are available from Mazdatrix for about the best price,