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toe links, trailing arms, and aftermarket bushings

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Old 03-27-03, 10:59 PM
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toe links, trailing arms, and aftermarket bushings

i am in dire need of some new bushings, and i figured that while my car is down i might as well do everything involving the suspension. I'm planning on the following parts:

1-coilovers - JIC FLT-A2's (although Rishie is waiting on a shipment)
2-toe links - M2 or other brand?
3-trailing arms - M2 or other brand?
4-bushings - Jimlab Unobtanium, N-tech nylon, custom nylon (waiting on the word from a friend on these), or some polyurethane model/brand, and Zerk fittings

just a few questions regarding 2-4...

toe links and trailing arms...
are they worth it? besides the advantages of helping reduce wheel hop, and the M2 models being adjustable.
the average life of these parts?

bushings...
i really don't think i will mind the noise, if any occurs. I am 99.9% positive that a number of my rear bushings are shot, so i just plan on replacing all of them. the main questions i have about these are what type of bushing material tends to last longer?

those who have installed zerk fittings for re-lubing the bushings, where did you install them? it doesn't really matter if i have to remove the wheel to re-lube the bushings, as i'm sure it won't be required a lot.

TIA for your help

Jimmy
Old 03-28-03, 03:21 AM
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You will probably also want some new stock pillow ball bushings for the rear suspension. The toe links and the pillow ***** are the most likely culprit for rear end clunk, and the only replacement for the pillow ***** are the stock Mazda parts.

-Max
Old 03-29-03, 03:52 PM
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should i look into a new PPF also?
Old 03-31-03, 09:58 AM
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I just installed the jimlab bushings....I used 1/4-28 zerk fittings. As far as location of the fittings, this is a very good question. I found the most effective way to locate the zerks is to find access spot before removing the arms...maybe mark them with paint. Make sure the zerks are small enough and strategically located to allow for proper range of motion. Although this seems easy to conceptualize, the lower front a-arm bushings are on compounded curve surface making drilling and tapping somewhat difficult.
Doing the jimlab bushing, or any bushing replacement, is quite a task to do on your own (as I did). I had access to a press...but finding the exact dia cylinders to press out the receiving cylinder to press the old busing into...kinda tricky.

Lotsa work for me...also hit your arms with wire brush and clean 'em up!

Last edited by cover8; 03-31-03 at 10:00 AM.
Old 03-31-03, 10:27 PM
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thanks for the info cover. i don't have access to a press so i was just going to have someone else press the new bushings in.

i actually thought about polishing and clear coating the arms while i was tearing everything else out.
Old 04-05-03, 12:04 PM
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How do you tell when new bushings are needed???
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