Running rich, high idle
03-09-18, 08:29 AM
#1
Full Member
Thread Starter
Running rich, high idle
Went to start the car yesterday and it cranked slow and didn’t start, pulled the EGI fuse got back in and it cranked fast and started right up so I put the EGI fuse back in. It was idling high even when it reached temp and running rich. Any ideas? Shut the car off and went to start it again immediately after and it didn’t want to start, so I kept cranking and pumping the pedal and flooded it.
Last edited by David731; 03-09-18 at 08:33 AM. Reason: Mistake
03-09-18, 11:41 AM
#2
Depending on your series, DO NOT TOUCH THE PEDAL WHILE CRANKING, this pops the tps out and makes the computer dump more fuel
If you have s4 pull the egi fuse again and deflood it again
If you have s5, just put the pedal all the way to the floor and crank it, s5 has a switch that while starting with the pedal down all the way cuts off the injectors
After you let it run again for awhile, shut if off, pull the egi fuse and compression test it, your motor may be getting tired
If your compression test comes back ok, replace the water thermoswitch thats on the back of the water pump, they can fail and make the computer think the engine is cold, when its not, and cold engines take more fuel to start than a hot engine
If this still doesn't fix it, get your injectors rebuilt, if they are original they are probably leaking
My money is on the thermoswitch though
If you have s4 pull the egi fuse again and deflood it again
If you have s5, just put the pedal all the way to the floor and crank it, s5 has a switch that while starting with the pedal down all the way cuts off the injectors
After you let it run again for awhile, shut if off, pull the egi fuse and compression test it, your motor may be getting tired
If your compression test comes back ok, replace the water thermoswitch thats on the back of the water pump, they can fail and make the computer think the engine is cold, when its not, and cold engines take more fuel to start than a hot engine
If this still doesn't fix it, get your injectors rebuilt, if they are original they are probably leaking
My money is on the thermoswitch though
03-09-18, 12:04 PM
#3
Full Member
Thread Starter
Depending on your series, DO NOT TOUCH THE PEDAL WHILE CRANKING, this pops the tps out and makes the computer dump more fuel
If you have s4 pull the egi fuse again and deflood it again
If you have s5, just put the pedal all the way to the floor and crank it, s5 has a switch that while starting with the pedal down all the way cuts off the injectors
After you let it run again for awhile, shut if off, pull the egi fuse and compression test it, your motor may be getting tired
If your compression test comes back ok, replace the water thermoswitch thats on the back of the water pump, they can fail and make the computer think the engine is cold, when its not, and cold engines take more fuel to start than a hot engine
If this still doesn't fix it, get your injectors rebuilt, if they are original they are probably leaking
My money is on the thermoswitch though
If you have s4 pull the egi fuse again and deflood it again
If you have s5, just put the pedal all the way to the floor and crank it, s5 has a switch that while starting with the pedal down all the way cuts off the injectors
After you let it run again for awhile, shut if off, pull the egi fuse and compression test it, your motor may be getting tired
If your compression test comes back ok, replace the water thermoswitch thats on the back of the water pump, they can fail and make the computer think the engine is cold, when its not, and cold engines take more fuel to start than a hot engine
If this still doesn't fix it, get your injectors rebuilt, if they are original they are probably leaking
My money is on the thermoswitch though
03-09-18, 03:02 PM
#4
Full Member
If you are having high idle conditions more then likely you have one or more vacuum leaks. You can try turning the idle screw down "clockwise" If you can't turn it down enough you have a vacuum leak. Need to check for leaks. There are lots of threads on how to do this. Type rx7club vacuum leak into google or something similar. As far as it not starting after you got it started the first time this is pretty common as well. Check rx7club hot starts for clues on what to check for and fixes. I myself installed a fuel cut switch. I provided a link below. Or you can spend hours and lots of money trying other things that could be it and then later on spend the $5 on the switch that works everytime. Some call this a bandaid by the way. I no longer need to use it mostly as I have a aftermarket ECU that has lots of options and never had to worry about leaky injectors and all that stuff.
Rotary Resurrection home of the budget rebuild.
Rotary Resurrection home of the budget rebuild.
03-10-18, 09:41 AM
#6
Full Member
Thread Starter
We know the alternator wasn’t charging (may be wired wrong) went to test it and can’t get the car to start again. Cranking speed doesn’t change when you pull the fuse now. Think the battery is bad
Trending Topics
03-10-18, 07:14 PM
#8
Full Member
Thread Starter
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
FbDrift
1st Generation Specific (1979-1985)
8
06-05-13 06:02 PM