Intake and exhaust - RICH RICH RICH
07-09-05, 05:37 PM
#1
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Intake and exhaust - RICH RICH RICH
87 TII - RB downpipe back - no cats. HKS Intake - RB FCD.
No other engine mods.
runs incredibly rich - afraid to run it at all. Is there a quick fix for this? I know a lot of people do intake and exhaust, I find it hard to believe that they are all going directly to a fuel controller or new ECU right off the bat?
I believe that the air flow meter believes that there is so much air running through the system, it fattens it up - TONS.
Is there anything I can disconnect or modify to get it running even close to normal?
... admittedly lost.
No other engine mods.
runs incredibly rich - afraid to run it at all. Is there a quick fix for this? I know a lot of people do intake and exhaust, I find it hard to believe that they are all going directly to a fuel controller or new ECU right off the bat?
I believe that the air flow meter believes that there is so much air running through the system, it fattens it up - TONS.
Is there anything I can disconnect or modify to get it running even close to normal?
... admittedly lost.
07-09-05, 06:23 PM
#2
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Originally Posted by Tricky
87 TII - RB downpipe back - no cats. HKS Intake - RB FCD.
No other engine mods.
runs incredibly rich - afraid to run it at all. Is there a quick fix for this? I know a lot of people do intake and exhaust, I find it hard to believe that they are all going directly to a fuel controller or new ECU right off the bat?
I believe that the air flow meter believes that there is so much air running through the system, it fattens it up - TONS.
Is there anything I can disconnect or modify to get it running even close to normal?
... admittedly lost.
No other engine mods.
runs incredibly rich - afraid to run it at all. Is there a quick fix for this? I know a lot of people do intake and exhaust, I find it hard to believe that they are all going directly to a fuel controller or new ECU right off the bat?
I believe that the air flow meter believes that there is so much air running through the system, it fattens it up - TONS.
Is there anything I can disconnect or modify to get it running even close to normal?
... admittedly lost.
07-09-05, 11:05 PM
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hows it idleing? check your fuel pulsation dampener. you can see them if you look underneath the UIM you can see the fuel rail If the end of it looks to be leaking, you must replace it or else you may catch fire to you engine and cause severe damage to your engine and components
07-09-05, 11:09 PM
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Originally Posted by Tricky
Yes the smell is a good indicaton - but more importantly because it used over three gallons of fuel idling less than a total of 20 minutes.
07-10-05, 12:21 AM
#7
I'm a boost creep...
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It's pretty obvious something is wrong with your car, which means something is broken or not working properly. Do not attempt to fix this with mods, find out what's wrong and fix that. Otherwise you're just masking sypmtoms and piling problems onto problems.
A rich idle does not necessarily mean the engine runs rich while driving. What's the fuel consumption like during normal driving?
A rich idle does not necessarily mean the engine runs rich while driving. What's the fuel consumption like during normal driving?
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07-10-05, 10:46 AM
#8
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Car ran fine prior to the mods - not trying to "fix" anything with mods - lol
No leaks at the fuel rail.
Car starts fine, idles at 1200 smooth while cold - as soon as it warms up, drops to about 400 - sputters and dies, won't idle.
and no - im not driving the car.
I'm just frustrated that adding intake and exhaust would take it so far out of whack.
No leaks at the fuel rail.
Car starts fine, idles at 1200 smooth while cold - as soon as it warms up, drops to about 400 - sputters and dies, won't idle.
and no - im not driving the car.
I'm just frustrated that adding intake and exhaust would take it so far out of whack.
07-10-05, 11:08 AM
#9
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Turbo or NA?
Adjust your friggen idle adjustment screw on top of the TB for the NA models, and adjust the idle via the BAC valve on the turbo modles to keep it from stalling.
Just to be sure, PLEASE double check that your water temperature sensor on the back of the water coolant housing is hooked up. This could explain everything... especially the stalling at warmup.
Adjust your friggen idle adjustment screw on top of the TB for the NA models, and adjust the idle via the BAC valve on the turbo modles to keep it from stalling.
Just to be sure, PLEASE double check that your water temperature sensor on the back of the water coolant housing is hooked up. This could explain everything... especially the stalling at warmup.
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