FbDrift

So when its all good and warmed up it still idles at around 1200-1400 rpm. Which I think is high. Unfortunately my laptop is broke and it won't let me download the manuel on my phone. So that leads me here. Now I went through the faqs but I still havent been able to locate the idle speed and mixture set screw. Also it seems my peak power is around 4500 rpm. And it takes foooorever to rev to redline in first gear. Maybe I'm imagining it but I could of swore my last rx7 was much quicker. Maybe not.

Anyway I took a can of carb cleaner around the rats nest and didn't find any vacuum leaks. Also does anyone have a vacuum diagram that I can pull up on my phone if they attach it to a reply?

Thanks in advance!

LizardFC

iTrader: (1)

I've figured out your problem... it appears you have a V8.

Idle should be around 750-800. Both the idle speed and mixture screws are on the driver's side of the carb facing out toward the fender. The mixture is dead center, the speed is toward the windshield and a bit less obvious. The idle issue isn't going to affect beyond 2000RPM. It sounds like your secondaries aren't opening. Either the vacuum line is disconnected, or the diaphragm is ripped or badly worn. If the underside of your hood hasn't been repainted, there should be a vac diagram on it.

FbDrift

Lol I really need to change that. That was a project 2 years ago haha.

Ill look for them tomorrow. I changed spark plugs, new accell plug wires new fuel filter, put on a new overflow tank and cleaned the k&n. But yes the previous owner got a little happy with the spray paint. I was thinking that my secondaries weren't opening. I think this weekend I might do the mechanical secondary mod. Then eliminate the rat nest entirely...

Also is it normal ( I have never noticed this before on my other rx7) that if you take off the oil cap or pull out the dipstick when running it stalls out?

rotornoob

iTrader: (2)

Um...I'm gonna say no that's not normal lol mine have never stalled due to removing the oil filler cap or the dipstick....that sounds like a fun issue though

FbDrift

I figured as much. But have no idea what it would be? Side seals crap causing it to pressurize the oil passages. Also my oil pressure will hang around 100-120 psi if I'm playing in the upper rpm band which seems high?

FbDrift

Hate to be the bearer of bad news but I'm pretty sure this engine is on her way out. Drove home with my wife from seeing fast 6. Coolant temp hit 235-245 on an aftermarket gauge. Oil pressure pegs out the gauge when you rev it. (Also aftermarket). I'm thinking a junkyard expedition for a 13b is in short order. I was planning on doing suspension work first... but screw it. Hopefully I can atleast save the 12a.

jeremyferguson4444

iTrader: (6)

Ouch! Sorry to hear it, but it sounds like you have the right attitude moving forward.....can't wait for the build thread!

Nicholas P.

iTrader: (1)

Oil temp pressure high, temp rising. I'm thinking you have a blockage. Oil pump/clearance=oil Heavier oil less clearance more pressure. When you have to high of an oil pressure usually it will dump out through the combustion causing premature wear on the rings. I'm saying this with a piston engine in the back of my mind. I would seriously look into that. I mean it can happen. Basically you have +90 going into the pump and negative lets say -5psi. So instead of your engine getting properly lubricating that pump is pushing but nothing is flowing... I try to make since but it's hard on a phone.

FbDrift

Or as it turns out my gauge wiring is screwy... it held 175 all day today. Which is impressive considering it hit 95-96 today. My oil pressure is still reading 90-100 lbs though. I think I'm going to do some spark chasing this weekend.