curtisloew

Just recently bought a 91 fcs5 Turbo converted already the problems I'm having right now after changing out nearly everything but the motor rebuild are while it runs I see a lot of white smoke out the exhaust idle is OK but all the sudden it died after it got to normal operation temp and it wont start, haven't done compression test yet and I'm assuming its a seal but any opinions otherwise would be great (oh the oil pressure is around 35 while cranking ) pre-thanks on advice

curtisloew

Oh just in case it matters or not it does fire for a few revs then dies,crank it starts for a second then dies

satch

iTrader: (1)

Have you tried jumpering the fuel check connector? And if so does it respond in the same manner?

curtisloew

Not yet, heading out there to try it tho

curtisloew

Tried it, nothing different happened

satch

iTrader: (1)

If the engine cuts out right after starting it could also be a function of a large vacuum leak.

Also, if you jumper the connector and turn the key to on,engine off, can you hear the fuel pumping through the fuel lines.

curtisloew

Im thinking a new fuel pump is needed, I need a walbro anywho. But would that be the reason for the smoking problem? I'm guessing improper tuning.

87 t-66

iTrader: (133)

a good tip is to use a period "." to separate your sentences. this will make your posts much easier to read and increase your chances in getting help.

curtisloew

OK. Thanks for the info. I will try to do more better grammatically.

drchronic

This sounds like the issues I am having and I have tried to jump the fuel pump connector and it doesn't help. I am starting to think the pump may be bad because everyone says you should hear the pump running but all I hear is a relay activating.

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...4#post10688394

curtisloew

Yep that's exactly what mines doing. Tomorrow my new 255 will be here so ill se what happens.

satch

iTrader: (1)

If the jumper is in place and the key to on then the Blue wire at the Circuit Opening relay would have battery voltage on it. Does yours?

drchronic

That's a good question and I went to check yesterday to find that I have a dead battery. I looked and saw that the negative terminal is cracked and fairly messed up on the bottom side. Could a bad battery/battery ground have started all of this in the first place? I have to go buy a new batt & terminals, as soon as I can get a ride I'll test the relay.

curtisloew

Well, I just bought a rebuilt motor and am still having the same issues with it not starting. The old motor had a blown apex seal but this one is ported mildly and 3mm seal. The fuel pump is working its getting spark also....cannot figure out why its doing this and need more advice....thanks.

satch

iTrader: (1)

Have you checked the 15 amp Engine fuse. W/key to on the Main Relay should click. If it is good then try one to two seconds of starter fluid in the intake and see if it starts for a little while before dieing out.

curtisloew

The fuse is good,sprayed starting fluid in and ran for a few seconds. I've replaced the fuel filter,and fuel pump...not making sense to me lol...

curtisloew

Also just drained the tank and put new gas in the tank.

satch

iTrader: (1)

There is a relay under the dash and just to the right of the steering column. There is a pic of it in post #12. The top row far left wire must have voltage w/key to start. Does it? And the Blue wire, top row far right position, should also have voltage w/key to start. Does it?

curtisloew

No voltage to that wire with ignition in the on position ....what now?

satch

iTrader: (1)

It reads "start" not on.

curtisloew

Yes,when at start position its reading voltage.

satch

iTrader: (1)

Did you use the injectors from the previous engine in the new engine? Is the new engine USDM or JDM?

curtisloew

Yes I used the old injectors,not sure how to determine if its jdm or not either.

satch

iTrader: (1)

Your injectors might be clogged. A JDM engine has the fuel lines connected differently than the USDM especially if the rats nest is JDM. You might want to switch the fuel lines to see if this is the case. If you have a spare CAS you can connect it to the harness and w/key to on spin the CAS wheel and the primary injectors should click. You also might want to disconnect the electrical plugs to the coils so they don't drown out the sound of the injectors clicking.

And if your injectors are all the same size then you can switch the secondaries for the primaries.

curtisloew

Well all the parts from the old motor were used including the rats nest...that way everything would connect right the 1st time. I don't have a CAS