2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

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Old Jul 17, 2011 | 04:52 PM
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AR running issues

Just recently bought a 91 fcs5 Turbo converted already the problems I'm having right now after changing out nearly everything but the motor rebuild are while it runs I see a lot of white smoke out the exhaust idle is OK but all the sudden it died after it got to normal operation temp and it wont start, haven't done compression test yet and I'm assuming its a seal but any opinions otherwise would be great (oh the oil pressure is around 35 while cranking ) pre-thanks on advice
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Old Jul 17, 2011 | 05:04 PM
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Oh just in case it matters or not it does fire for a few revs then dies,crank it starts for a second then dies
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Old Jul 17, 2011 | 05:31 PM
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Originally Posted by curtisloew
Oh just in case it matters or not it does fire for a few revs then dies,crank it starts for a second then dies
Have you tried jumpering the fuel check connector? And if so does it respond in the same manner?
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Old Jul 17, 2011 | 05:36 PM
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Not yet, heading out there to try it tho
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Old Jul 17, 2011 | 05:50 PM
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Tried it, nothing different happened
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Old Jul 17, 2011 | 06:04 PM
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If the engine cuts out right after starting it could also be a function of a large vacuum leak.

Also, if you jumper the connector and turn the key to on,engine off, can you hear the fuel pumping through the fuel lines.
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Old Jul 17, 2011 | 06:46 PM
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Im thinking a new fuel pump is needed, I need a walbro anywho. But would that be the reason for the smoking problem? I'm guessing improper tuning.
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Old Jul 17, 2011 | 06:59 PM
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a good tip is to use a period "." to separate your sentences. this will make your posts much easier to read and increase your chances in getting help.
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Old Jul 17, 2011 | 07:15 PM
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OK. Thanks for the info. I will try to do more better grammatically.
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Old Jul 18, 2011 | 08:55 PM
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This sounds like the issues I am having and I have tried to jump the fuel pump connector and it doesn't help. I am starting to think the pump may be bad because everyone says you should hear the pump running but all I hear is a relay activating.

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...4#post10688394
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Old Jul 18, 2011 | 09:43 PM
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Yep that's exactly what mines doing. Tomorrow my new 255 will be here so ill se what happens.
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Old Jul 18, 2011 | 09:43 PM
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Originally Posted by drchronic
This sounds like the issues I am having and I have tried to jump the fuel pump connector and it doesn't help. I am starting to think the pump may be bad because everyone says you should hear the pump running but all I hear is a relay activating.

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...4#post10688394
If the jumper is in place and the key to on then the Blue wire at the Circuit Opening relay would have battery voltage on it. Does yours?

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Old Jul 20, 2011 | 07:35 PM
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Originally Posted by satch
If the jumper is in place and the key to on then the Blue wire at the Circuit Opening relay would have battery voltage on it. Does yours?

That's a good question and I went to check yesterday to find that I have a dead battery. I looked and saw that the negative terminal is cracked and fairly messed up on the bottom side. Could a bad battery/battery ground have started all of this in the first place? I have to go buy a new batt & terminals, as soon as I can get a ride I'll test the relay.
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Old Aug 11, 2012 | 12:12 PM
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Well, I just bought a rebuilt motor and am still having the same issues with it not starting. The old motor had a blown apex seal but this one is ported mildly and 3mm seal. The fuel pump is working its getting spark also....cannot figure out why its doing this and need more advice....thanks.
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Old Aug 11, 2012 | 01:24 PM
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Have you checked the 15 amp Engine fuse. W/key to on the Main Relay should click. If it is good then try one to two seconds of starter fluid in the intake and see if it starts for a little while before dieing out.
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Old Aug 11, 2012 | 01:31 PM
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Originally Posted by satch
Have you checked the 15 amp Engine fuse. W/key to on the Main Relay should click. If it is good then try one to two seconds of starter fluid in the intake and see if it starts for a little while before dieing out.

The fuse is good,sprayed starting fluid in and ran for a few seconds. I've replaced the fuel filter,and fuel pump...not making sense to me lol...
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Old Aug 11, 2012 | 01:32 PM
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Also just drained the tank and put new gas in the tank.
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Old Aug 11, 2012 | 02:30 PM
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There is a relay under the dash and just to the right of the steering column. There is a pic of it in post #12. The top row far left wire must have voltage w/key to start. Does it? And the Blue wire, top row far right position, should also have voltage w/key to start. Does it?

Last edited by satch; Aug 11, 2012 at 02:33 PM.
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Old Aug 11, 2012 | 07:05 PM
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Originally Posted by satch
There is a relay under the dash and just to the right of the steering column. There is a pic of it in post #12. The top row far left wire must have voltage w/key to start. Does it? And the Blue wire, top row far right position, should also have voltage w/key to start. Does it?


No voltage to that wire with ignition in the on position ....what now?
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Old Aug 11, 2012 | 08:18 PM
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Originally Posted by curtisloew
No voltage to that wire with ignition in the on position ....what now?
It reads "start" not on.

Last edited by satch; Aug 11, 2012 at 08:20 PM.
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Old Aug 11, 2012 | 09:12 PM
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Originally Posted by satch
It reads "start" not on.
Yes,when at start position its reading voltage.
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Old Aug 11, 2012 | 09:36 PM
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Did you use the injectors from the previous engine in the new engine? Is the new engine USDM or JDM?
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Old Aug 11, 2012 | 10:12 PM
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Originally Posted by satch
Did you use the injectors from the previous engine in the new engine? Is the new engine USDM or JDM?

Yes I used the old injectors,not sure how to determine if its jdm or not either.
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Old Aug 11, 2012 | 10:18 PM
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Your injectors might be clogged. A JDM engine has the fuel lines connected differently than the USDM especially if the rats nest is JDM. You might want to switch the fuel lines to see if this is the case. If you have a spare CAS you can connect it to the harness and w/key to on spin the CAS wheel and the primary injectors should click. You also might want to disconnect the electrical plugs to the coils so they don't drown out the sound of the injectors clicking.

And if your injectors are all the same size then you can switch the secondaries for the primaries.

Last edited by satch; Aug 11, 2012 at 10:23 PM.
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Old Aug 11, 2012 | 10:32 PM
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Well all the parts from the old motor were used including the rats nest...that way everything would connect right the 1st time. I don't have a CAS
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