Yes the afm reads 4.98 volts and the car idles with the afm unplugged, no jumpers attached either....

 

So the car idles w/the AFM disconnected and neither the fuel check connector or Circuit Opening Relay jumpered?

 

Correct.

 

And the afm is a reman I just purchased ....

 

You still need to check pin 2B, Green wire, w/the key to on. And on an S5, the ECU provides a ground on the Brown wire found at the Circuit Opening Relay as opposed to the AFM found on S4's so that the car runs w/o the jumper in place could be rather normal. And some of the wires at the AFM may be pulled back withing the plug.

 

Checked 2b and 3.89 volts are sustained....although im noticing some shotty wiring work from the avcr and turbo timer which will get totally redone. But,the throttle sensor has me wondering because without moving the throttle the avcr is reading 17%...

 

What's an avcr?

 

Actuator valve controller by apexi

 

Just for the heck of it you might want to measure the voltage on the Brown wire at the Circuit Opening Relay w/key to on but engine off. Voltage should be very close to 12 volts and not a rather low value. And you probably should address the issues w/the aftermarket stuff you have if not disconnecting it altogether and see where you stand. And you might try disconnecting the battery's negative cable for a couple of minutes and reconnecting followed by taking codes again and compare w/the last results .

 

The brown wire measured exactly 12.4v and codes im still getting are 30,38,42 but the interesting part now is....without the afm connected it'll run and idle almost normal. When the temperature reached 90 it changes idle and the throttle response became delayed. When I killed it,then started it up again the idle was back to semi-normal and throttle response normal ...is this an injector going bad?

 

Also fixed all the wiring to the avcr and hks timer.

 

Please any advice on this will be greatly appreciated.

 

Anyone? ....

 

Im curious ...would all of this be an issue with the rebuilt motor I just put In? It seems to be a tad bit low on coolant and no leaks...would a coolant seal be the culprit here? Doing a compression test later when I get another set of hands to help.

 

Did a compression test and both rotors are thumping 3 steady 90lbs...any advice anyone?

 

Is this thread not public lol???

 

im really curious on your outcome.

 

Well even after replacing the tps and thermo wax,afm,checking everywhere for vacuum leaks,checking relays,checking grounds, checked bac valve...im considering the ideas of either the cat is clogged or the injectors. If anyone has a idea im all ears.

Symptoms still persist to where it only runs if the afm is disconnected,afm is new tho...

 

What do you mean by new. Did you lay out a $1000 to by a new one.

 

No its a reman...but when its connected it doesn't throw a code so I assumed its good?

 

Supposedly remans are cleaned on the outside to look perty, but thats the gist of their being remanufactured.

 

I would not suspect injectors. You say you have some type of throttle response, it is just delayed. This would not point me in the direction of the injectors.

Can you borrow an AFM from somebody else?

Is there any difference with the car if you unplug your TPS? Is your idle set correctly? Is your timing correct?

Where is the variable resistor set?

 

The timing is set correctly, not much difference when the tps is unplugged granted the afm is unplugged also to keep it running. Should I try to get another afm to see if the one I bought possibly is bad?...

 

Test the new AFM.

How did you mess up the original AFM?

If the new AFM tests okay, check for continuity along the wires for the AFM.

 

Im going to sound amateurish here,I didn't test the original but assumed it was the problem because of it running only when the afm was unplugged and when connected the car died....