You can use the installed CAS but you'll have to restab it when placing it back in place.

 

Ok,its acting like a clogged injector. It started briefly but when I touched the gas it died. Also when it started it revd to 4k...dunno if that's a faulty sensor as well?

 

reving to 4k and dying sounds like a large vacuum leak.

 

Well after tightening the BAC hose and checking all the others,no change. It starts and get to 2k then dies...the vacuum lines are all new so no leaking on the vacuum.

 

This problem is why I swapped motor, the compression was bad so I assumed that the rebuilt one would solve it. Obvious I am wrong because the problem is still there. But the difference in the two motors' symptoms is that the new one doesn't backfire, the old one did.

 

Would the inside diameter of the vacuum hoses being smaller than the original hoses produce this issue?

 

Doesn't seem likely. Have you tried jumpering the fuel check connector as the fuel switch in the AFM might be at fault. You might try jumpering the solid Black wire in the Circuit Opening Relay to the Brown wire in the plug which would bypass the AFM switch.

 

Well tried jumping those as well and it started but didn't stay running unless I tapped the gas repeatedly. Throttle response was delayed as I hit the pedal it took a second to rev...

 

You might want to leave the jumper in place and disconnect the AFM as you might have an issue w/that unit especially if the flapper door is sticking and see if it runs somewhat better.

 

Does it mean anything if the alternator is getting warm while cranking the motor over?

 

Not sure. You can disconnect the output wire briefly to see if it reacts the same way.

 

Unplugging the afm just made a world of difference ...idles even lol! So im assuming it needs to be replaced?

 

Did you ever check for codes. Perhaps the flapper is sticking or perhaps something else about it is problematic. With it disconnected it should make the engine run rich if not mistaken.

 

Haven't checked codes yet but it runs extremely rich, so much that it flooded after trying to restart it.

 

It's to be expected and done (disconnecting it) just to check if it's perhaps the cause or not.

 

I appreciate your advice greatly, will keep ya posted after replacing the sensor.

 

And check for codes w/the sensor connected. Takes all of a minute to do.

 

Well I'm a bit stumped still,the afm on the car was a n390(not sure if that matters). But going to check for codes this evening and try to determine if its not the apexi boost controller causing alot of the problems. The controller and hks external wastegate were both on the car when purchased. The previous owner said the boost was set between 12-14...advice please on tuning the boost down and wiring diagram for the controller?

 

Oh and replaced the afm with a correct n370 tried it and no fix, but will have more time this evening to run codes and whatnot.

 

Being an NA owner I'm not familiar with these devices.

 

Well your advice so far has been very helpful ...anyone else willing to give advice, im all ears.

 

Tried checking for codes but,got nowhere ...this car use to be n/a and the prior owner swapped the t2 motor originally. No check engine light has came on....even after checking for codes...grounding the green single wire connector on the passenger side strut tower is the way to check for codes correct?

 

The Orange wire to be grounded is found near the lead coil (driver side).

 

Got codes: 8,10,30,38,42....any help deciding where to go with it?

 

Codes 30 and 38 are emissions related and not likely contributing to your problem. Code 42 is your Duty Solenoid and not familiar w/that. Codes 8 and 10 are both related to your AFM. It can only throw two codes and it is. Either your connection/wiring is snafued or the AFM has seen better days.

EDIT: Pin 2B, Green wire, measures 4 volts w/key to on at the ECU. Pin 2K would measure 2 to 3 volts at 68 degrees Farenheit w/the car idling but yours doesn't idle.

And the Brown/White wire powers the AFM. W/key to on does yours read close to 5 volts at the AFM?