removing the shifter control housing
08-02-05, 03:13 PM
#1
I think I'm addicted
Thread Starter
removing the shifter control housing
Hello i justs got my new (used) tranny in, and the shifter control housing has a broken bolt inside it.... also the spring inside the shifter control housing is broken....
how can i take out the housing and swap it with my old one?
how can i take out the housing and swap it with my old one?
08-02-05, 03:29 PM
#2
knowledge junkie
It would be easier to do this with the transmission on a table, not installed on a car:
download the service manual on this to walk you through it:
http://www.teamfc3s.org/main/factory...ual/1989_1991/
download the service manual on this to walk you through it:
http://www.teamfc3s.org/main/factory...ual/1989_1991/
08-02-05, 03:31 PM
#3
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^yup yup..........I'll be doing THAT procedure to this PERFECT rebuilt, SMOOTHEST SHIFTING tranny that broke on us:
but unlike your problem I'll have to replace quite a bit of the tranny.....
but unlike your problem I'll have to replace quite a bit of the tranny.....
08-02-05, 03:33 PM
#4
I think I'm addicted
Thread Starter
Holy crap
well i have the tranny out... both actually, but what do i need to do? do i need to take out the whole extension housing just to change the shifter control housing?
well i have the tranny out... both actually, but what do i need to do? do i need to take out the whole extension housing just to change the shifter control housing?
08-02-05, 03:41 PM
#5
knowledge junkie
hmm...
Madrx7racer's tranny looks weld-able. One of my project verts had a broken driveshaft. The driveshaft knocked a whole chuck off my shifter control housing (ie missing), and the shift rod tube was bent.... non salvagable. So I had to swap the rear tailshaft & housing off a junker.
Cybaster,
I didn't try to remove the change control housing on mine, just swapped the rear tail shaft cover which included the shifter rod. It would probably be the easiest.
Note I had to re-seal all the housings on my tranny in the process, but only had to remove the back tail cover
Madrx7racer's tranny looks weld-able. One of my project verts had a broken driveshaft. The driveshaft knocked a whole chuck off my shifter control housing (ie missing), and the shift rod tube was bent.... non salvagable. So I had to swap the rear tailshaft & housing off a junker.
Cybaster,
I didn't try to remove the change control housing on mine, just swapped the rear tail shaft cover which included the shifter rod. It would probably be the easiest.
Note I had to re-seal all the housings on my tranny in the process, but only had to remove the back tail cover
Last edited by vaughnc; 08-02-05 at 03:43 PM.
08-02-05, 03:42 PM
#6
I think I'm addicted
Thread Starter
so the conclusion is that i would need to take apart the rear extension housing of both transmissions, and then swap in the shifter housing..... correct?
08-02-05, 03:45 PM
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I would seriously Download the manual posted above or at www.iluvmyrx7.com for step by step directions on how to do it.
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08-02-05, 03:47 PM
#8
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Originally Posted by vaughnc
hmm...
Madrx7racer's tranny looks weld-able. One of my project verts had a broken driveshaft. The driveshaft knocked a whole chuck off my shifter control housing (ie missing), and the shift rod tube was bent.... non salvagable. So I had to swap the rear tailshaft & housing off a junker.
Cybaster,
I didn't try to remove the change control housing on mine, just swapped the rear tail shaft cover which included the shifter rod. It would probably be the easiest.
Note I had to re-seal all the housings on my tranny in the process, but only had to remove the back tail cover
Madrx7racer's tranny looks weld-able. One of my project verts had a broken driveshaft. The driveshaft knocked a whole chuck off my shifter control housing (ie missing), and the shift rod tube was bent.... non salvagable. So I had to swap the rear tailshaft & housing off a junker.
Cybaster,
I didn't try to remove the change control housing on mine, just swapped the rear tail shaft cover which included the shifter rod. It would probably be the easiest.
Note I had to re-seal all the housings on my tranny in the process, but only had to remove the back tail cover
08-02-05, 03:48 PM
#9
knowledge junkie
Yeah that's it. Like I mentioned above you'll need to re-seal most of the housings when you pull this apart.
Also check for leaks around the input shaft sub-housing (inside the bell housing).
You might as well scruba-dub-dub the entire transmission (don't pressure wash it).
I used some degreaser, bremo bads, and a wire wheel brush with my drill to get all the dirt & grime off. Then paint it with some silver paint as a final touch. If you have a dremmel, you can use that mini-wire wheel brush to get into the crevices.
Also check for leaks around the input shaft sub-housing (inside the bell housing).
You might as well scruba-dub-dub the entire transmission (don't pressure wash it).
I used some degreaser, bremo bads, and a wire wheel brush with my drill to get all the dirt & grime off. Then paint it with some silver paint as a final touch. If you have a dremmel, you can use that mini-wire wheel brush to get into the crevices.
08-02-05, 04:13 PM
#12
I think I'm addicted
Thread Starter
there's no instruction on how to remove the shifter pivot in the FSM... now i removed all the bolts of the rear housing... but that pivot is stuck....
how can i remove the pivot point? (the thing that the shifter moves...)
how can i remove the pivot point? (the thing that the shifter moves...)
Last edited by Cybaster; 08-02-05 at 04:22 PM.
08-02-05, 04:29 PM
#13
knowledge junkie
the shift rod comes out of the middle of the transmission, not out of the shifter housing. it's not really held in place inside the middle of the transmission, it rests sandwiched between several rods and can be released by josseling the tail housing around a bit.
08-02-05, 04:31 PM
#14
I think I'm addicted
Thread Starter
sorry, i don't mean that one ^_^ i got that one off, because the rear housings EACH has its own faults... so that is why i would need to take the shafts and housings from my old one, and the gear selector pivot from my new one....
i see that there is a pin that i can drive thru the gear selector (control lever end) but i can't seem to get THAT out now ^_^
i see that there is a pin that i can drive thru the gear selector (control lever end) but i can't seem to get THAT out now ^_^
Last edited by Cybaster; 08-02-05 at 04:34 PM.
08-02-05, 07:05 PM
#16
I think I'm addicted
Thread Starter
please, this is urgent....
that or, anyone know how to remove that orange ring inside the control lever end?
all i need from my old housing is that now
that or, anyone know how to remove that orange ring inside the control lever end?
all i need from my old housing is that now
08-02-05, 07:21 PM
#17
I think I'm addicted
Thread Starter
anyways i found the answer from
http://www.se-rx7.com/techtips/selsprng.htm
and qoute:
The shift control rod cannot be removed without removing the extension
housing, which in turn cannot be removed without removing the small drive
pin that holds the shifter cup on. If you have a Factory Service Manual, it
shows a picture of a mechanic happily driving it out with a punch. Be
careful when doing this!!! It's a good idea to stuff the shifter back in
place, put it in 1st gear, then using a punch, drive out the pin.
A couple of notes here: by putting the transmission in first, the drive pin
is angled towards the hole where the blind cap goes. You want to drive the
drive pin through the shifter control rod, through the shifter cup, and out
this hole. This, of course, is not documented anywhere, so when I did it, I
drove the drive pin into the side of the cast aluminum housing where it was
stuck real good. :0 I had to drill some holes in the opposite side, then tap
for pipe plugs and reseal. A major PITA. Second, use a proper sized punch or
you will not get the pin all the way out. Third, use a new drive pin when
you get it out.
http://www.se-rx7.com/techtips/selsprng.htm
and qoute:
The shift control rod cannot be removed without removing the extension
housing, which in turn cannot be removed without removing the small drive
pin that holds the shifter cup on. If you have a Factory Service Manual, it
shows a picture of a mechanic happily driving it out with a punch. Be
careful when doing this!!! It's a good idea to stuff the shifter back in
place, put it in 1st gear, then using a punch, drive out the pin.
A couple of notes here: by putting the transmission in first, the drive pin
is angled towards the hole where the blind cap goes. You want to drive the
drive pin through the shifter control rod, through the shifter cup, and out
this hole. This, of course, is not documented anywhere, so when I did it, I
drove the drive pin into the side of the cast aluminum housing where it was
stuck real good. :0 I had to drill some holes in the opposite side, then tap
for pipe plugs and reseal. A major PITA. Second, use a proper sized punch or
you will not get the pin all the way out. Third, use a new drive pin when
you get it out.
08-02-05, 07:22 PM
#18
I think I'm addicted
Thread Starter
the whole thing
qoute:
>The spring that keeps my shifter toward the 1st gear side
>is broken. I've got the tranny sitting on the bench, cover
>plate off the extension housing. Extension housing bolts
>removed. I'm hesitant to pull the extension housing and
>control rod out of the back half of the tranny (assuming
>it will come out). I figure it's connected to shift rods/forks
>and will be impossible to relocate properly.
I hope somebody saves this and posts it on one of the FC sites.
I went through the same thing when I first got my GTUs.
Background:
The normally aspirated transmissions consist of a bellhousing, gear change
case, and a long extension housing. The extension housing houses the rear
driveshaft bushing, the shifter housing, and the shifter control rod. The
shifter control rod is terminated in a cup, in which the shifter actually
sits. This cup is retained with a small drive pin. The other end of the
shifter control rod has a small lever on the end, which actuates the shifter
forks, and therefore the gears.
There are two springs which provide the shifter centering function in the
normally aspirated transmissions. One is a standard coil spring which pushes
against the shifter control rod end. This one is externally accessible from
a blind cap located on the lower end of the shifter housing. This spring
provides the return force from 5th/Reverse.
The other spring is wrapped around the shift control rod. It requires
considerable effort to replace, and provides the shifter return force for
1st/2nd gear.
Disassemlby:
To remove all of this stuff, the shifter and transmission must first be
removed. There is an inspection plate on the side of the shifter housing.
Remove it. Use a catch basin, as there is usually about 4 oz of smelly gear
oil sitting in there. Next, remove the blind cap, plunger, spring, and ball
bearing. Keep tabs on these parts -- they tend to find there own Garage
Bermuda Triangle.
The shift control rod cannot be removed without removing the extension
housing, which in turn cannot be removed without removing the small drive
pin that holds the shifter cup on. If you have a Factory Service Manual, it
shows a picture of a mechanic happily driving it out with a punch. Be
careful when doing this!!! It's a good idea to stuff the shifter back in
place, put it in 1st gear, then using a punch, drive out the pin.
A couple of notes here: by putting the transmission in first, the drive pin
is angled towards the hole where the blind cap goes. You want to drive the
drive pin through the shifter control rod, through the shifter cup, and out
this hole. This, of course, is not documented anywhere, so when I did it, I
drove the drive pin into the side of the cast aluminum housing where it was
stuck real good. :0 I had to drill some holes in the opposite side, then tap
for pipe plugs and reseal. A major PITA. Second, use a proper sized punch or
you will not get the pin all the way out. Third, use a new drive pin when
you get it out.
Now that the pin is out, try to get the transmission into neutral, then
remove the shifter. Now, remove the extension housing bolts. Pay attention
to which bolt goes into which hole, and pay attention to where the cable
clamp goes. I flipped the transmission to stand on the bellhousing, and then
lifted the extension housing straight up. Raise about 1.5", and the shift
extension rod will slide out of the cup in the shifter housing. At this
point look between the extension housing and the gear case and observe how
the shifter rod sits between the ends of the shifter forks. Take notes!!
Spin it around so its clear, then remove the extension housing. Fluid will
go everywhere during this step, so take precautions for the mess.
On a bench, take the shifter rod out, and the cup. Study how the spring is
mounted, draw a diagram or take a picture. Remove the old spring. All this
work for a $4 part!!
Assembly:
Degrease the exposed mounting surfaces between the extension and gear
housings. Be careful -- it has some very sharp edges, and you can slice a
finger pretty badly. Once it's clean and degreased, put a sealant on the
mounting surface, and the proceed with reassembly.
Slide the control rod into the extension housing. When it first appears in
the shifter housing, install the spring and the shifter cup. Don't bother
working the spring all the way on, yet. Keep these things together and slide
the whole thing onto the rest of the transmission.
Spin the shift control rod such that it's in "neutral" position. That is,
positioned between the shifter forks, but not engaging any. Slide the
extension housing down the rest of the way, and start some of the bolts.
Install the new drive pin for the shifter cup. Work the spring into the
final place, referring to the picture/drawing you made before. Note that
there is no picture anywhere in the Haynes or Factory Service Manual to
guide you!
Torque the extension housing bolts into place.
Install the other spring, ball bearing, plunger and blind cap. Use a new
seal, or a Permatex product. I used Permatex 518 here, on the extension
housing mounting surfaces, and the bolt threads. I use this same stuff on
the inspection plate -- it likes to leak there.
Now is a good time to replace any other seals, such as the speedometer gear
drive O-ring, any switches, copper crush washers, etc.
Install the transmission, and then wait 24 hours for the sealants to cure.
Fill with gear oil (a fluid meeting GL-4 AND GL-5 is best). Install shifter
and enjoy.
No liability is assumed on my part.
Regards,
Rob Weinstock
1990 GTUs
qoute:
>The spring that keeps my shifter toward the 1st gear side
>is broken. I've got the tranny sitting on the bench, cover
>plate off the extension housing. Extension housing bolts
>removed. I'm hesitant to pull the extension housing and
>control rod out of the back half of the tranny (assuming
>it will come out). I figure it's connected to shift rods/forks
>and will be impossible to relocate properly.
I hope somebody saves this and posts it on one of the FC sites.
I went through the same thing when I first got my GTUs.
Background:
The normally aspirated transmissions consist of a bellhousing, gear change
case, and a long extension housing. The extension housing houses the rear
driveshaft bushing, the shifter housing, and the shifter control rod. The
shifter control rod is terminated in a cup, in which the shifter actually
sits. This cup is retained with a small drive pin. The other end of the
shifter control rod has a small lever on the end, which actuates the shifter
forks, and therefore the gears.
There are two springs which provide the shifter centering function in the
normally aspirated transmissions. One is a standard coil spring which pushes
against the shifter control rod end. This one is externally accessible from
a blind cap located on the lower end of the shifter housing. This spring
provides the return force from 5th/Reverse.
The other spring is wrapped around the shift control rod. It requires
considerable effort to replace, and provides the shifter return force for
1st/2nd gear.
Disassemlby:
To remove all of this stuff, the shifter and transmission must first be
removed. There is an inspection plate on the side of the shifter housing.
Remove it. Use a catch basin, as there is usually about 4 oz of smelly gear
oil sitting in there. Next, remove the blind cap, plunger, spring, and ball
bearing. Keep tabs on these parts -- they tend to find there own Garage
Bermuda Triangle.
The shift control rod cannot be removed without removing the extension
housing, which in turn cannot be removed without removing the small drive
pin that holds the shifter cup on. If you have a Factory Service Manual, it
shows a picture of a mechanic happily driving it out with a punch. Be
careful when doing this!!! It's a good idea to stuff the shifter back in
place, put it in 1st gear, then using a punch, drive out the pin.
A couple of notes here: by putting the transmission in first, the drive pin
is angled towards the hole where the blind cap goes. You want to drive the
drive pin through the shifter control rod, through the shifter cup, and out
this hole. This, of course, is not documented anywhere, so when I did it, I
drove the drive pin into the side of the cast aluminum housing where it was
stuck real good. :0 I had to drill some holes in the opposite side, then tap
for pipe plugs and reseal. A major PITA. Second, use a proper sized punch or
you will not get the pin all the way out. Third, use a new drive pin when
you get it out.
Now that the pin is out, try to get the transmission into neutral, then
remove the shifter. Now, remove the extension housing bolts. Pay attention
to which bolt goes into which hole, and pay attention to where the cable
clamp goes. I flipped the transmission to stand on the bellhousing, and then
lifted the extension housing straight up. Raise about 1.5", and the shift
extension rod will slide out of the cup in the shifter housing. At this
point look between the extension housing and the gear case and observe how
the shifter rod sits between the ends of the shifter forks. Take notes!!
Spin it around so its clear, then remove the extension housing. Fluid will
go everywhere during this step, so take precautions for the mess.
On a bench, take the shifter rod out, and the cup. Study how the spring is
mounted, draw a diagram or take a picture. Remove the old spring. All this
work for a $4 part!!
Assembly:
Degrease the exposed mounting surfaces between the extension and gear
housings. Be careful -- it has some very sharp edges, and you can slice a
finger pretty badly. Once it's clean and degreased, put a sealant on the
mounting surface, and the proceed with reassembly.
Slide the control rod into the extension housing. When it first appears in
the shifter housing, install the spring and the shifter cup. Don't bother
working the spring all the way on, yet. Keep these things together and slide
the whole thing onto the rest of the transmission.
Spin the shift control rod such that it's in "neutral" position. That is,
positioned between the shifter forks, but not engaging any. Slide the
extension housing down the rest of the way, and start some of the bolts.
Install the new drive pin for the shifter cup. Work the spring into the
final place, referring to the picture/drawing you made before. Note that
there is no picture anywhere in the Haynes or Factory Service Manual to
guide you!
Torque the extension housing bolts into place.
Install the other spring, ball bearing, plunger and blind cap. Use a new
seal, or a Permatex product. I used Permatex 518 here, on the extension
housing mounting surfaces, and the bolt threads. I use this same stuff on
the inspection plate -- it likes to leak there.
Now is a good time to replace any other seals, such as the speedometer gear
drive O-ring, any switches, copper crush washers, etc.
Install the transmission, and then wait 24 hours for the sealants to cure.
Fill with gear oil (a fluid meeting GL-4 AND GL-5 is best). Install shifter
and enjoy.
No liability is assumed on my part.
Regards,
Rob Weinstock
1990 GTUs
03-16-06, 11:42 AM
#19
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Join Date: Oct 2005
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Originally Posted by Cybaster
Install the new drive pin for the shifter cup. Work the spring into the
final place, referring to the picture/drawing you made before. Note that
there is no picture anywhere in the Haynes or Factory Service Manual to
guide you!
final place, referring to the picture/drawing you made before. Note that
there is no picture anywhere in the Haynes or Factory Service Manual to
guide you!
01-03-21, 09:55 AM
#21
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Join Date: Dec 2020
Location: San Diego
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the whole thing
qoute:
>The spring that keeps my shifter toward the 1st gear side
>is broken. I've got the tranny sitting on the bench, cover
>plate off the extension housing. Extension housing bolts
>removed. I'm hesitant to pull the extension housing and
>control rod out of the back half of the tranny (assuming
>it will come out). I figure it's connected to shift rods/forks
>and will be impossible to relocate properly.
I hope somebody saves this and posts it on one of the FC sites.
I went through the same thing when I first got my GTUs.
Background:
The normally aspirated transmissions consist of a bellhousing, gear change
case, and a long extension housing. The extension housing houses the rear
driveshaft bushing, the shifter housing, and the shifter control rod. The
shifter control rod is terminated in a cup, in which the shifter actually
sits. This cup is retained with a small drive pin. The other end of the
shifter control rod has a small lever on the end, which actuates the shifter
forks, and therefore the gears.
There are two springs which provide the shifter centering function in the
normally aspirated transmissions. One is a standard coil spring which pushes
against the shifter control rod end. This one is externally accessible from
a blind cap located on the lower end of the shifter housing. This spring
provides the return force from 5th/Reverse.
The other spring is wrapped around the shift control rod. It requires
considerable effort to replace, and provides the shifter return force for
1st/2nd gear.
Disassemlby:
To remove all of this stuff, the shifter and transmission must first be
removed. There is an inspection plate on the side of the shifter housing.
Remove it. Use a catch basin, as there is usually about 4 oz of smelly gear
oil sitting in there. Next, remove the blind cap, plunger, spring, and ball
bearing. Keep tabs on these parts -- they tend to find there own Garage
Bermuda Triangle.
The shift control rod cannot be removed without removing the extension
housing, which in turn cannot be removed without removing the small drive
pin that holds the shifter cup on. If you have a Factory Service Manual, it
shows a picture of a mechanic happily driving it out with a punch. Be
careful when doing this!!! It's a good idea to stuff the shifter back in
place, put it in 1st gear, then using a punch, drive out the pin.
A couple of notes here: by putting the transmission in first, the drive pin
is angled towards the hole where the blind cap goes. You want to drive the
drive pin through the shifter control rod, through the shifter cup, and out
this hole. This, of course, is not documented anywhere, so when I did it, I
drove the drive pin into the side of the cast aluminum housing where it was
stuck real good. :0 I had to drill some holes in the opposite side, then tap
for pipe plugs and reseal. A major PITA. Second, use a proper sized punch or
you will not get the pin all the way out. Third, use a new drive pin when
you get it out.
Now that the pin is out, try to get the transmission into neutral, then
remove the shifter. Now, remove the extension housing bolts. Pay attention
to which bolt goes into which hole, and pay attention to where the cable
clamp goes. I flipped the transmission to stand on the bellhousing, and then
lifted the extension housing straight up. Raise about 1.5", and the shift
extension rod will slide out of the cup in the shifter housing. At this
point look between the extension housing and the gear case and observe how
the shifter rod sits between the ends of the shifter forks. Take notes!!
Spin it around so its clear, then remove the extension housing. Fluid will
go everywhere during this step, so take precautions for the mess.
On a bench, take the shifter rod out, and the cup. Study how the spring is
mounted, draw a diagram or take a picture. Remove the old spring. All this
work for a $4 part!!
Assembly:
Degrease the exposed mounting surfaces between the extension and gear
housings. Be careful -- it has some very sharp edges, and you can slice a
finger pretty badly. Once it's clean and degreased, put a sealant on the
mounting surface, and the proceed with reassembly.
Slide the control rod into the extension housing. When it first appears in
the shifter housing, install the spring and the shifter cup. Don't bother
working the spring all the way on, yet. Keep these things together and slide
the whole thing onto the rest of the transmission.
Spin the shift control rod such that it's in "neutral" position. That is,
positioned between the shifter forks, but not engaging any. Slide the
extension housing down the rest of the way, and start some of the bolts.
Install the new drive pin for the shifter cup. Work the spring into the
final place, referring to the picture/drawing you made before. Note that
there is no picture anywhere in the Haynes or Factory Service Manual to
guide you!
Torque the extension housing bolts into place.
Install the other spring, ball bearing, plunger and blind cap. Use a new
seal, or a Permatex product. I used Permatex 518 here, on the extension
housing mounting surfaces, and the bolt threads. I use this same stuff on
the inspection plate -- it likes to leak there.
Now is a good time to replace any other seals, such as the speedometer gear
drive O-ring, any switches, copper crush washers, etc.
Install the transmission, and then wait 24 hours for the sealants to cure.
Fill with gear oil (a fluid meeting GL-4 AND GL-5 is best). Install shifter
and enjoy.
No liability is assumed on my part.
Regards,
Rob Weinstock
1990 GTUs
qoute:
>The spring that keeps my shifter toward the 1st gear side
>is broken. I've got the tranny sitting on the bench, cover
>plate off the extension housing. Extension housing bolts
>removed. I'm hesitant to pull the extension housing and
>control rod out of the back half of the tranny (assuming
>it will come out). I figure it's connected to shift rods/forks
>and will be impossible to relocate properly.
I hope somebody saves this and posts it on one of the FC sites.
I went through the same thing when I first got my GTUs.
Background:
The normally aspirated transmissions consist of a bellhousing, gear change
case, and a long extension housing. The extension housing houses the rear
driveshaft bushing, the shifter housing, and the shifter control rod. The
shifter control rod is terminated in a cup, in which the shifter actually
sits. This cup is retained with a small drive pin. The other end of the
shifter control rod has a small lever on the end, which actuates the shifter
forks, and therefore the gears.
There are two springs which provide the shifter centering function in the
normally aspirated transmissions. One is a standard coil spring which pushes
against the shifter control rod end. This one is externally accessible from
a blind cap located on the lower end of the shifter housing. This spring
provides the return force from 5th/Reverse.
The other spring is wrapped around the shift control rod. It requires
considerable effort to replace, and provides the shifter return force for
1st/2nd gear.
Disassemlby:
To remove all of this stuff, the shifter and transmission must first be
removed. There is an inspection plate on the side of the shifter housing.
Remove it. Use a catch basin, as there is usually about 4 oz of smelly gear
oil sitting in there. Next, remove the blind cap, plunger, spring, and ball
bearing. Keep tabs on these parts -- they tend to find there own Garage
Bermuda Triangle.
The shift control rod cannot be removed without removing the extension
housing, which in turn cannot be removed without removing the small drive
pin that holds the shifter cup on. If you have a Factory Service Manual, it
shows a picture of a mechanic happily driving it out with a punch. Be
careful when doing this!!! It's a good idea to stuff the shifter back in
place, put it in 1st gear, then using a punch, drive out the pin.
A couple of notes here: by putting the transmission in first, the drive pin
is angled towards the hole where the blind cap goes. You want to drive the
drive pin through the shifter control rod, through the shifter cup, and out
this hole. This, of course, is not documented anywhere, so when I did it, I
drove the drive pin into the side of the cast aluminum housing where it was
stuck real good. :0 I had to drill some holes in the opposite side, then tap
for pipe plugs and reseal. A major PITA. Second, use a proper sized punch or
you will not get the pin all the way out. Third, use a new drive pin when
you get it out.
Now that the pin is out, try to get the transmission into neutral, then
remove the shifter. Now, remove the extension housing bolts. Pay attention
to which bolt goes into which hole, and pay attention to where the cable
clamp goes. I flipped the transmission to stand on the bellhousing, and then
lifted the extension housing straight up. Raise about 1.5", and the shift
extension rod will slide out of the cup in the shifter housing. At this
point look between the extension housing and the gear case and observe how
the shifter rod sits between the ends of the shifter forks. Take notes!!
Spin it around so its clear, then remove the extension housing. Fluid will
go everywhere during this step, so take precautions for the mess.
On a bench, take the shifter rod out, and the cup. Study how the spring is
mounted, draw a diagram or take a picture. Remove the old spring. All this
work for a $4 part!!
Assembly:
Degrease the exposed mounting surfaces between the extension and gear
housings. Be careful -- it has some very sharp edges, and you can slice a
finger pretty badly. Once it's clean and degreased, put a sealant on the
mounting surface, and the proceed with reassembly.
Slide the control rod into the extension housing. When it first appears in
the shifter housing, install the spring and the shifter cup. Don't bother
working the spring all the way on, yet. Keep these things together and slide
the whole thing onto the rest of the transmission.
Spin the shift control rod such that it's in "neutral" position. That is,
positioned between the shifter forks, but not engaging any. Slide the
extension housing down the rest of the way, and start some of the bolts.
Install the new drive pin for the shifter cup. Work the spring into the
final place, referring to the picture/drawing you made before. Note that
there is no picture anywhere in the Haynes or Factory Service Manual to
guide you!
Torque the extension housing bolts into place.
Install the other spring, ball bearing, plunger and blind cap. Use a new
seal, or a Permatex product. I used Permatex 518 here, on the extension
housing mounting surfaces, and the bolt threads. I use this same stuff on
the inspection plate -- it likes to leak there.
Now is a good time to replace any other seals, such as the speedometer gear
drive O-ring, any switches, copper crush washers, etc.
Install the transmission, and then wait 24 hours for the sealants to cure.
Fill with gear oil (a fluid meeting GL-4 AND GL-5 is best). Install shifter
and enjoy.
No liability is assumed on my part.
Regards,
Rob Weinstock
1990 GTUs
I'm terms of parts. Are the only ones that need to be replaced are the two springs and two drive pins?
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