Alright I took off the p/s pump but I'm going to keep the a/c on. I clamped off the hose on the bottom but theres still 2 more hoses left. What do I do with those? Thanks.

 

Quick steel the inside of the bolts that allow fluid to pass through them, put them back on once dry.. done.


did you connect the smaller lines from the rack?

 

All I've done was take the pump out and plug the bottom hose that went into it. What exactly do you mean quick steel the inside of the bolts? What bolts. I just have open hoses right now. And the smaller lines that come from the rack? Hmm...let me get under there and see what you're talking about. Don't go no where Levi, lol.

 

check this out.

5 lines on the gear box. 3 large , 2 small

2 of the 3 large lines have banjo bolts.. hollow centers that allow fluid to pass through them. Fill the centers with quick steel. make sure you are very neat about this and keep the threads clean and make sure the quick steel is flush with the base of the bolt and sides.

the last large line has a fitting on it, cut the hose leave about 5" of hose and jam a bolt in the hose, make sure you have to turn the bolt to make it go into the hose.. and use hose clamp to seal it up, then put it back on.

The 2 smaller lines on the box, take them off, cut them about 2 " from the end, plug the ends with quick steel and put them back in.

Now cut the smaller lines by the oil pan and connect them with a good high quality hose and 2 hose clamps.

now disconnect the buzzer box under the steering wheel.

all done

 

Well we didn't have any JB weld or anything. The 3 hoses that go into the pump, we capped them off. Thats it. It is the same as when I had a blown fuse for the power steering and its not leakin so I guess its ok, right?

 

GLHS, damn man make a write up with pics dude! I'm sure a mod would make it a sticky!

 

did you connect the smaller lines on the rack itself?


Or did you drive the car before you looped them?

I was always curious to know, if the system looped itself inside the gear box. I assumed it did, or has a bypass of some sort, and then you would not need to loop those 2 lines.

Give me the details....Please

 

I've been researching the previous posts on this, and supposedly the right way to do it is by looping the two smaller hoses so they would continually feed each other. The previous posts have also led me to the assumption that not looping these two lines makes steering harder, but it still steers. Hope that can help.

 

If you are going to use quick steel or JB weld. You will need to be aware that if a piece of that breaks off and gets jammed in the steering linkage, you will probably wreck. Now the chances of this happening is almost nil, but with the amount of vibration the steering rack encounters, I would have to believe it's possible. Just be careful.

 

I will let you guys know if the quick steel holds up.. mine has been this way for almost 1 year now. Still works perfect

 

I have an 89 626 with almost an entire radiator built out of quick steel. It has lasted over 5 years like that. Quick steel is very strong, but JB weld is stronger I believe. That being said; I still caution those thinking about using it.

 

DO NOT RUN WITHOUT FLUID IN THE RACK! These racks need lubrication. Without fluid they will die. Steering from side to side pushes fluid in and out of it. Do not plug the lines. Loop them. If possible, get them to use a pintsized bottle to have plenty of fresh fluid circulating back and forth. If you have a manual steering rack, then this does not apply.

 

I just messed with the 3 lines that were directly attached with the power steering pump. I just blocked off all 3. Previous to removing the p/s the fuse was blown so I didn't have p/s. I noticed no difference after removing it.