spinner26

Hi..

I've recently moved to a 16" elec fan in place of the mechanical fan. The temp is still not what I'd like to be as it heats up over half while on city streets going below 35mph. 3rd gear around 3500rpm. Highway speed is bliss.

So if I were to remove the plastic engine undertray will I be removing engine bay heat much faster? Will it even help at all? When I open my door once warmed up it feels like a hair dryer blowing in my face from my megafan blowing hot air out any possible crack.

This plastic piece looks to have an aerodynamic significance although it also serves as a wonderful leaf collector.

--Mike

fc3s.org

You could try it, but most everyone that I have ever heard do it, has had an instant rise in temps. What else is done to your cooling system for decreasing temps? New radiator? Stock OEM thermostat? Higher PSI rated radiator cap for increasing boiling point of coolant?

rx7_turbo2

It's interesting Mike that your question comes up, as I just had that plastic guard off while draining my coolant so I could replace my thermostat in an effort to lower temps like you. I had a look at the thing and it seems to me that the rad is too exposed to flying debris without that thing. Someone else may think otherwise but I am not sure I would be taking it off.

As a note replacing my thermostat helped lower my temps a great deal. I tested the old unit in some boiling water and the bitch didnt open at all, so i am hoping the new one is the solution i was looking for.

Good Luck

Hey are you meeting us on saturday?

spinner26

I've replaced the thermostat with a Stant that opens at 180. The only other thing I've tried is placing the fan thermo higher up to get it to come on earlier as it currently comes on before half and cools it right down under good conditions. I also have an HKS intake with a homegrown heat shield surrounding it. Currently there is no cold air feed.

The plastic dealie is there for a good reason but I'm thinking of anything I can do relatively economical to cool it down. Luckily it's not a big problem as we are having some blistering hot days lately and it does keep the engine in the saftey zone. A fan plenum to pull the air from the enitre rad will probably be next.

Graham, I'll do my best to make it. There will no parking at Denny's at 11am on a Saturday. Maybe across the street in the parking lot of the camping co-op?


--Mike

fc3s.org

I would change the setup of the elec fan to switch operation. That way you can control from the cockpit when the fan comes on and off. That way at freeway speeds you can kill it and save the motor in the fan, and in the city you can turn it on all the time to maintain cooler temps.

Do you have the stock radiator air deflector pieces in front of the radiator? Also, chuch the Stant thermstat and go get a Mazda one. I have heard of peoples motors dying due to the thermostat's not opening. The Mazda ones are more expensive, but well worth the money IMHO. Also, try getting a 19PSI radiator cap. Keep us updated.


BTW, which fan did you get?

[bnd]

i was told the plastic splash guard is suppose to force the air to flow through your radiator. with the guard removed the air just flows past underneath, taking the least restrictive route.

MasteRX

If you want lower temps:

-Change to OEM thermostat, it opens at a lower temp than the 180degree Stant ones. It is also of better quality, and flows better.

-put windage tray back on, it directs air to flow through radiator, instead of under it.

-get your radiator checked, flow tested, if needed, fixed. It is the most important part of your cooling system.

spinner26

Ok, I will chuck the Stant on the weekend and get the mazda part. I will also put in the switch for the fan. It heats up driving slow when the fan is on so a rad checkup should be in order. I'm going leave all plastic parts intact and I do have the front deflectors. Dave, I have a Revcor 16" fan with "S" blades.

Thanks for the help gang, I'll check back in after I make some changes.

--Mike

rx7_turbo2

Mike

I replaced my thermostat with an OEM one from Mazda. I had heard the aftermarket ones don't work as well. The new unit has made a big difference, and couple that with an upcomming rad flush and cleaning and I should be laughing. I also agree that putting the fan on a switch will probaly be more effective.

Thanks for the tip about the Denny's lot that never even occured to me.

Roshambo

I wasn't too impressed with the OEM Mazda thermostat, it actually made my car run hotter then the NAPA one I bought (NAPA=$8, Mazda =$26) and I snapped a bolt off the thermostat housing to Mazda one in there. SOB! Sure it has the jiggly pin and looks very sturdy and nicely constructed, but it didn't work that great in my car.

Mike, if you want a OEM t-stat, I have one you can have. It was in my car for a whopping 1 week so it should be as good as new. Don't think it will help your cooling problem though. I don't think a hair above C is the "factory normal temp setting" though