What is the best mods for reliability on a S5 TII.

 

Leave it alone.

 

new motor and tranny.

 

wouldn't a new intercooler help out the stock turbo and improve performace?

 

leaving it stock and maintaining the car and following the schedual 2 recommendations (found in your owners manual) will provide the best reliabilty.

The only other thing that I would recommend for extended life would be replacing the E-shaft thermo valve with a bypass plug.

For reliability you do not want to change anything like intercoolers or turbos, etc.

 

 

eh? E-shaft thermo valve with a bypass plug ... i have no clue what that is

 

neither do i...care to explain ice?

 

You could install an E-Fan, that will help keep it cooler and not run as hot. Upgraded Radiator too if you really want. Other then that just take car of it, get oil changed when needed, new plugs when needed, all new fluids when needed actually. And don't drive the car real hard, but don't ***** foot it around either. Won't hurt the engine to be reved to redline once in a while, just don't do it all the time and drive it like a race car.

 

actually an E-fan is only a mediocre solution, as the stock fan and fluid clutch works just fine and better than 80% of the E-fans out there.

And I do believe in driving the car hard, it is much better to jit the red line a half dozen times a day than to drive softly keeping the RPMs down. Rotary engines are designed to use almost the entire rev range, from 2K to 6k and it should be used in daily driving.

The worst thing you can do is baby the motor.

 

how often does each of the fuels need to changed?

 

There is a valve in all 86 and later rotary engines that help warm up the engines for emissions reasons.

The valve is located in the front end of the eccentric shaft. How it helps the warm up, is by not allowing the full flow of oil to flow to the rotors until the oil reaches operating temp.

Over time, the stock pellet will fail, causing oil to fail to flow to the rotors and causing engine failure. Signs of the valve failing are a consistent 10 to 15 PSI lower oil pressure regardless of RPM.

By replacing the bypass valve with a pellet or shimming the valve up you allow full flow of oil to the rotors regardless of oil or engine operating temp; just as found on the pre-86 models (and we all have heard of their extreme long life). Of course the added advantage is that you never have to worry about the valve failing as well.

If using a pellet from Mazdatrix or Atkins or (my favorite for them->) FC3S.org, the pellet is a direct replacement for the stock piece, and can typically be replaced while the engine is in the car and in less than 15 minutes.

The change should be done on every 86 and later rotary engine, and will not effect emissions in anyway (other than it might take an extra 2 or 3 minutes to get the engine up to normal operating temp).

 

hmmm great info thx u

 

get a 2.5" downpipe. leaving the main cat in place. or get a new cat as well. like the bonez system. I doubt it's enough to raise boost. but will help the life of the engine. and give more power at the same time.

also make sure all fluids and filters are changed

 

i've read about this peice numorouse times when i first purchassed my car
however since the engine only has 10K km on it, since it goes on the E-shaft i figured it meant taking apart the engine and i didn't feel it to be a priority as of right now..

however if you say it can be changed in less then 15 min and w/o removing the engine from the car i guess i'd like to change it b4 my car finally hit the road in my hands

How would this be done and could i do it myself... my cars gonna be in the body shop for a little while and i would probably be able to go in there and do the work myself.?

Thanks

-Frank

 

The only other big thing (besides the standard tune up things as found in the FAQ) is that the Pulsation Dampener (PD) should be replaced every 10 years or 100K miles.

 

Most rebuilders replace the valve when rebuilding, is your motor from Mazda or a rebuilder?

 

it's new s5 engine from mazda, it was moded internally for 150 shot NOS then sold with the car as soon as it was installed lady driven for the first 10K km and then i bought it.

engine runs really nice

but since it was an engine from mazda and i neglected to ask the guy that built the engine

in any case i talked to the engine builder way after i bought the car and found out the engine not only was new but also had the few mods

so going back what would i do to replace the stock pellet?

 

The 11:15pm readers digest version (for a more complete version you may wish to use the search function found in the upper right hand corner):

Before starting the job, have a Torque wrench, the replacement pellet and some blue loctite.

Remove the 4 10mm nuts holding the stock fan and fan clutch on. Remove the Fan and fan clutch

Jam the clutch in (clutch needs to be in the whole time) use a 2x4 or something.

19mm deep socket on a air wrench or strong breaker bar (don't use the crappy cheapo bars, use a Craftsman or Snap on or Mac tools one, the cheaper ones will break and cause injury to you or the car).

If using the air wrench remove the e-shaft bolt.

If using a breaker bar, socket on the breaker bar and the e-shaft bolt, lay the breaker bar on the drivers (battery side) frame. Crank the car a second (helps if you have the EFI fuse pulled), you don't want to start the car, just crankover the engine for a second to break the bolt loose.

once the E-shaft bolt is loose remove it and the valve and spring assembly.

replace the valve with a bypass pellet. re-assemble the spring assembly.

Drop a couple of drops of blue loctite on the threads of the e-shaft bolt, and quickly screw in and tighten to 80-85 ft-lbs.

Re-attach the fan. Release the clutch and you are done.

 

Very helpfull Ice